RACERZ

Almost ready to paint then to chassie shop for alignment.

We run headlight ducts to the brakes on the EP car works well, no problems with the hose start going inboard then up to clear the tires then down and into the duct we run a 3" hose got most of the parts at home depot, if you want to be real trick plum them for alcho/water injection using a washer pump hooked into your brake swithch then you can inject a shot of much cooler charge into the rotor, they use this system on a lot of the enduro cars and is dirt cheap to build. If you get by Huntsville drop by and check it out.

We did this set up in our old car and found that you needed the zx longet end , the 240 one is about 1/2 in shorter and you have to run it out to the end to work this puts a large load on it the zx one is longer and is threaded in much further, I dont remember if we used the whole rod or just the end (I think just the end)

Dont forget to lube the fittings befor you begin to flare them it will make a slicker product. Also use old coat hangers to figure out you bends befor you start bending the tube (we were repluming the race car and had a few bend going 90 deg wrong and had to start over. It will save you some time and cash.

Anyone know where I can get fiberglass inspection doors and the cover for the wiper motor? I have looked on the net and only found 1 place that had a carbon fiber one for the wipers and we will be using it on our race car so plan to fill in the holes and am looking for somthing cheaper (ie fiberglass). We could prob make the doors but I am not to skilled with glass so I though I would ask around first befor trying to fab my own.

We ran a line off our EP car to a remote vent and it still overflowed some. you best bet is a vented catch/expansion tank (we will be adding one for next year). As far as running a oil cooler/pump I would call Greg Ira, he had issues with his power bruit lsds on his EP car and added a pump setup. He is a super nice guy and will be able to give you the optimum setup. He has a web page that has his number give him a call. Another source is Sam Neave at LNA enterprises he does a lot of race setups on NISSANS.

From the stand point of RPMs normally you dont want to be at the top end of the range (depending on your set up) on most V8s peak torque is lower, by staying on the top end you will find you are dropping off the torque curve and the car will tend to be twitchy, keeping in in the middle of you torque curve will give you much better throtal responce and smooth out the car espically during transitions. We found this out when we changes form our AP Z to a BSP corvette. With a light weight chassie like the Z this will amplify the problems. You need to find what you torque curve is and how wide then find the gearing that will keep you in it. By gearing up 3.9+ it tends to put you into the(2,3,4th) gears which have broader ranges and therfore will utilize the V8s wider torque curve. For our vette we started with the 3.44s but found with the box we were using(stock gertrag) that the 4.11 was vastly better for most autoXs mover us up from 1-2 combinatios to 3-4 (mostly using 2nd in the tights and going to 3rd for long portions, excellent transitions and good acceleration onto long strights). Since the Z is so light like most other have said you will prob be able to run most of the course in 1 gear (big advantage of V8s) vs the inline 6s/4s. I would start buy pulling the numbers for you motor (if available) and start running gear combinations to see which gear ratio combinatios will keep you in the sweet range of you torque curve. Then you can change the diffs acording to the type of courses you run (tight vs long). Again like other have said looking at your transmission ratios and gaps between will determine which ratio fits you motors optimum torque. Just my humble 2 cents worth.

Were are in no hurry just let me know when you can get it apart. If you get to it befor the weekend of May 18-20 I hope to be at the race at road atlanta so I will be in your neck of the woods and will take the whole diff if you have it, if not the R+P will be fine. Just let me know.

We run a stock crank dapner with no problems but if we rebuilt the motor we were looking at BHJ Dynamics they look like they offer several verities (looks like Robello uses their dampners). We were looking at building a "super" EP motor all billit driveline all ARP bolts lighten block ect. Looks like the bottom end would run about 10 grand for parts plus sundries to build plus cost to freshen the head. To freshen our motor as is will run about 4 grand. Not that I have 4 grand laying aroud to spend.

No rush I got the other one but am still intrested in yours, when you get some picts send them to me. We may be at Road Atlanta for the May race 18-20 if we get the car back together, so if you could get it to your place it would save on the hassle of shipping it.

No joy you can run aftermarket but must be stock dimentions bore stroke and journal size. I was hopeing someone would have already had an existing setup instead of 1 off customs (that is where the big cost comes in) You can buy V8 billit cranks all day for under a grand in all kinds of dimensions but there is a big demand. That is what stinks the rods are relatively inexpensive for the L6 rods in billit but no luck on cranks. We run the corrilo now in our car.

Thanks!

We run E production in SCCA and have to run stock SUs and the problem is they run out of air about then and we cannot bore them out and if you hold a "stock" L24 crank at those RPMs a harmonic sets up and the crank shatters (BIG BOOM) most racing motors pull to 9-10k and pass through that "sweet spot" quickly so no problems, I am told it is a feature of the crank that is why you see a lot of the racing L28 cranks made fully counter balanced since most racers run the L28s (again not legal for our 240). As a side note you dont want to knife edge them either tends to amplify the problem. The stock carbs are good to about 85-8600 then run out and on a long stright you would hit that sweet spot. I was told this by the previous owner and the motor builder DO NOT RUN ABOVE 8200 period or expect to buy a new motor. They tried it in the car and on the dyno and just wont work. That is why I am looking for a crank builder to see if we can get a fully countered crank at a resonable price(less than a grand) made to test if it would work.

Thanks I will check with them. We have a problem with a harmonic at 8200-8300 if you hold it in that range for more than a coulple of seconds bad things happen so we were looking for one that will hold together. the way we are carbed/geared the sweet spot is about 8500 so we are trying to get an option, to deal with it.

Already may have been covered but does anyone know if there is a fully counter balance crank available for the L24s I have seen some for the L28s but we cannot run them and was wondering if any of the U.S. mfgs of cranks makes one? If so who would I need to contact?

Still looking for those picts?? Updates,status?

We have a 4.11 gear set in our LSD from a PU and it uses the 10mm bolts the Subies use the 12mm I dont know about the xterras, I would recomend for checking the bolt size on the Xterra call Lynchburg Nissan @434-385-7733 and ask for Rieley (parts dept manager)he supports a lot of the east coast nissan racers and would be able to tell you what size bolts the ring gear uses. Remember you wont be able to use the old 240 3.54s because they were based on the old 110mm ring gear sets and your diff is for the 115mm.

Inline 6 intrested in diff shoot picts and see how much shipping to 35773. HM- to convert to the subie cost lots of bucks I have access to a machinest with a CNC who works cheap after hours so the machine work is very resonable. I just need find out what parts are the closest and cheap. And yes I am looking for a Subie R180 also, the early clutch pack type are harder to find 04-05. send me those picts of the inners and shipping is the same zip.

Prob not, chassie was wider. We are looking in to trying to use the 240sx or P/U cv axles, already have a couple of 4.11s out of P/Us with the clip in type stubs that look like they would be easily modifed to be bolt in (if they have the same spline counts as the NISMO/QUAIFE diffs for the S30).The main problem will be getting axle shafts made to work, axles sets from the SUV and P/U are way cheaper and more easy to find if they could be modifed to fit(one of many projects for the race car for the next couple of years subject to cash flow).

Dont forget that the Subie R180s have a diff bolt from the nissan. I dont remember where I saw it but they said on the form not to try and mixing them. Dont remember if diff size or thread pitch. Some pitch in if you know where it was posted.

Sorry for no response been on the road. I am itrested in both I have found out the autos should be a 3.54 and manuels 3.7 easy way to tell it to pull the back cover, the ring will be stamped 3.7:10 if 3.7, and will be 3.9:11 if 3.54. Both(HM and I6) can you both shoot me some picts of the interiors I am at michael.langley@mchsi.com I have another nissan racer intrested also so I may take both of them. I am itrested in the ring and pinions so I dont care about the cases so missing bolts are not a problem (I have several 3.36 parts diffs)in fact if you have access to a press to pull the pinion it will be easier and cheaper to ship only the ring and pinion gears by them selvels.

Had several responces, Some questions can you tell if they are the older (non K) cases? this will tell if they are the 110mm vs 115mm R&Ps, and is the price just for the R&P or the whole diff (shipping wont be cheap) that was why I was hoping to find someone in SE.

Looking for a 3.7 R&P or complete diff in the R180, as far as I know they only came in the early 810/maximas, I am located in the South east U.S.

We have a Quaife in our R180 on the race car and have no problem with heat, I was talking to Greg Ira and he runs the clutch types and says they will produce more heat if you set them up "tight" which would not what you want on the street, For every day use you should not need a cooler, like others have said just use a good product (we run MOBIL 1 sync) and you wont have a problem, if you are going to run one though, I would recomend either buying the Perrin cover (mentioned above)for the Subies or adapt a stock one off a subie (they have a temp probe in them) Also remember that the pumps will also be suspatable to heat,so you will need to be carful to get the cooler into a good air flow (this may be an issue on a stock car since the air flow is up front) also you will need someway to filter the fluid befor it goes into the pump or crud will get sucked into it and burn it up.

You dont have to load the whole thing you can pick pages or sections to load or copy. we do this for the sections we need and skip the rest.