ap72

Steve260z sent me a balancer and I received it yesterday. Thanks again for all the help and especially to Steve!

I have a few miscellaneous parts that I took off of my 78 280z that someone can have if they want them, a stock ignition module, stock computer, stock AFM, stock throttle body, and a stock cam. Just offer me enough to make it worth my while to package it all up and ship it and its yours. These parts are all good I just swapped to megasquirt, a larger throttle body, and a GM ignition module.

I have the front and rear bumper off of my 78 280z, the chrome is a little faded but if someone wants to PM me an offer on them I can ship them out- if not they're being scrapped this weekend. I know this should be in classifieds but I cant post there for some reason. Also, I am not intending this as an auction, I don't think anyone would want these anyways, but if they do let m eknow before they're gone forever.

There is a LOT of bad advice in this thread, and a little bit of decent advice. If you don't have a short block going with a complete Vortec engine is not a bad proosition, HOWEVER it is not likely that you can find a low miles complete running engine in good condition. SO you'll probably be looking for one with a spun bearing as it is fairly common. Get a good vortec engine with a spun bearing and have the crank fixed and either have the rods resized or throw them away and get a good set of Scats. Get a set of cheap flat top pistons with the propoer compresion height (1.560-1.565") and a cheap rering kit. At this power level you don't need to worry about getting fancy on rings and bearings, Kind Bimetal bearings are fine and hastings, Perfect circle (mahle), or speed pro rings will be fine. Assuming your heads are not cracked have a good valve job done on them with a wide chamber cut and the throat opened to 89%. Assuming you want to reuse your HR valve train find a cam around with around 220º duration @.050", an RPM intake will work fine if you want to run a carb (I prefer EFI now). A good set of headers and a decent carb and you'll be around 425hp at the flywheel for a total around $2K. DO NOT OVERCAM THESE HEADS. with nothing more than a good valve job they do not work well with more than 225º duration, your tq drops off fast and you don't pick up much hp.

This is what I have, it appears that the one you have is identical?

That looks like what I'm looking for! Do you have a side shot of the pulley so I can compare the grooves?

I got a used pullet in the mail but the AC belt will not fit on it, the groove is too narrow. The pulley I have is from a 78 280z, I was not able to take a picture of it this morning but is there anyone that would have a pulley to fit this exact application? Th eone I recieved does fit on the crank snout but the radii are much smaller and the grooves are narrower.

Steve, can you email me at ap72license@hotmail.com with your phone number? I'd like to call you and discuss payment.

I don't have a pic, I thought the groove spacing was the same though? If the diameter is bigger that's fine I just need something to get me going. I have a 2 vbelt design ('78 280z with AC) but I heard the 3 belt will work and just leave an empty groove (who knows I may upgrade to power steering one day). If I can bolt it on my crank and hang the belts from it I'll take it. I really just need to get this thing going before December 8.

My crank pulley is badly cracked and I need a replacement, is there a good place to get a used one or a cheaper alternative to the $250+ new ones that I see? I'm kind of desperate to get one in the next week or so but I cant afford to pay through the nose. Are their pulleys from other viehicles that can work? The local salvage yard has no 280z's or 280zx's.

I need a2 or 3 rib crank pulley in good condition, shipped to 63303. If you have one please email me at ap72license@hotmail.com I will try to respond immediately.

What you are referring to is actual throttle response, which is almost always better with a smaller throttle body.

I put a larger throttle body on my otherwise stock (except megasquirt) L28e. I didn't notice any difference other than my off idle throttle control is no a PITA. I have no idea on the size, it was from a Nisan of some sort and had the same bolt pattern and I modified the linkage to work with the stock throttle shaft assembly. I can measure the size if anyone really wants to know. Currently the car has the head pulled and I am porting the intake runners on the head and manifold, I am debating installing my turbo now or later after I have the ported intake, head, and new cam tuning sorted out. When it goes back together I'll try the larger throttle body, butif its still a PITA I'm going to step it down a size. Whatever size I used it would barely fit on the stock manifold, in fact it had a problem on the top with a slight leak due to the opening being so large.

the NGK Iridiums do work well. Some people don't like the additional cost though- cant say I blame them. Instead of twin turbo just use a good single with a good turbo header leading into it. The turbo header can make a HUGE difference in spool time.

Why not change the emulsion tubes?

your piston to wall clearance and ring gap are right where they should be. I would hone it, new rings, grind/polish the crank, do the main bores if necessary, new bearings, and call it good. Be sure to clean everything VERY thoroughly before reassembly.

Ive built a few engines in the past, but never an L28. I'm also putting together a Ford 2.3L powered car at the same time so whenever I get busy on one the other takes a rest. Right now I'm in the process of figuring out the cam I want for the L28 and until I get that I'm doing Body work on the other car. Then I'll be doing body work on the 280Z until I can fab up a new intake for my Ford engine. I plan one while I work on the other, that way I'm not rushed into doing something. Are there any members who have installed cams that I can talk to about drive-ability? I'm wanting some first hand experience and I'm having trouble finding someone I can discuss drive-ability with.

the 16G turbo I'll e using is about maxed out at 380ish flywheel hp, so after I get to that point I will be upgrading to a 20G compressor side (good for 500 flywheel hp). I'm trying to get everything lined up just right so I can hit my 300hp at or below 6000 RPM with as LITTLE boost as possible. I would like to get there with about 10-12psi. To do that I need to have everything as good as I can get it. I realize people can hit 300hp in NA form, but since I'm trying to use as many stock parts as I can I will be much more limited. My main concern with going larger than 220 (or 222 like the Isky cam) is off idle driveability. I know many peopl eon here like to spin their engines to the moon, but if I can make the same power at a lower RPM then that's what I'll go for. My choke will be the intake. Even with it hogged out as far as I can go I know it will be my restriction, so I need to build around that.

300hp at the wheels would be nice. Then I would look into building a short block. The "A" cam is just too small for what I want. Doing any headwork with lifts that low is almost pointless, I'm looking for .450-.500" lift, changing the springs isn't an issue I just want something that will be durable, peak around 6,000 RPM and be mild enough to pull away from a stop sign in second gear with little trouble.

I know the injectors are small, but its all I could find on hand, eventually I'll be running 40lb's, the 24lb units will be enough to get me up and running though, which is all I really wanted. I'm doing my own head, I always do my own heads weather its Fords, Chevys, or now a Nissan. Sending a head off to be done for a grand or better for a street car is just foolish IMO. I'm just looking for some cam advice from some people who have "been there done that." Surely SOMEONE on this forum has BTDT?

I'm trying to figure out what I need for cam selection in my L28ET build. It's running megasquirt right now and I'm planning to do a head, cam, and turbo upgrade all at once. The head will be ported with stock valve size, ported stock intake manifold, 240sx throttle body, 24lb fuel injectors, hahn supersport 16G turbo, ported turbo exhaust manifold. I'll probably start around 10psi and work from there, water/Meth injection in the future. For my cam I'm considering a 220/220 .460/.460" cam on a 114 LSA. Is this too much cam for a car that only sees 2500-6000 RPM?

Modifying the factory computer to work is the easy part for me, well that and cam installation. The hard part is finding good reputable suppliers. FWIW the car is a driver that will be used for friday nights and car shows, so I want something on the loud side, I will also be turboing it down the road (already accumulating parts for a mild 10psi build) so I am look at something in the 220-230 range, about .470" lift and a 108 or so LSA. It will also have a ported head with a valve job, ported stock intake, and upgraded injectors (LT1 takeoffs) I'm shooting for about 300whp on premium (93) pump gas. AND a HUGE thanks for a supplier of lash pads, Its looking like a reground cam won't be as expensive as I thought, which is good since I'm also in the middle of some body work.- Nevermind, they no longer carry lash pads. I've found them for $60 a set from MSA though, still not bad.

Is their any place where I can get an affordable set of lash pads? $150 for a set just throws them out of my budget. I was planning on a regrind and lash pads, but it appeared a new cam was cheaper. in regards to the wipe pattern and settign lash I can handle that, I've done some work with Ford 2300 engines, which use a simmilar setup.

I'm looking for a mild cam that can work with stock lashcaps and valve springs, I'm just wanting a nice step up, basically the largest cam I can run with a stock valvetrain. Does anyone know of a cam that will work for this?