midnightmoonlight

The chain is tight but the sprocket looks worn. If I move it back to #2 or #1 and the chain is still tight should I run it like that? Of course you read my other post and I need rings so Im not sure if Im going to fix this motor, or my 240 motor. If the PO set it on #3 to try to get more hp and advanced the the hell out of the dizzy could that wreck the rings?

Rings without honing is just dumb right?

Hello, My engine is smoking all the time from the tail pipe just plain gray smoke. It doesnt smell like antifreeze and my PVC is functioning. My compresion is 96,93,96,99,100,91 thats 1-6. I did a leak down test on #1 and Im getting air from oil fill. When I have some more time Im going to go through the test on all the cylinders. My question is if my car sat for 6 years and has only run for about 25 miles tops never going over 60. This car has run mostly idling so I could work out the bugs. Is there any chance my rings just need to reseat themselves? The car was running very rich when I got my hands on it. It has 160k. The reason Im asking is I have a spare motor that has sat a long time too but only has 60k on it and it leaks past the rings as well. Thanks for the help

Ill do a compression test and a leak down test see what I can figure out and search. Keep your eye out for a new thread. I still dont understand the cam numbers and what they do. From the way I see it if its at TDC and set to #3 then I change it to #2 shouldnt I then have to change the ignition timming to compensate for the different position of the cam...Im haveing a brain fart on this one. They are different but they are very much dependent on one another right. Okay Ill start reading and stop talking now Thanks for the help its greatly appreciated.

I have had the cam out and swapped it with a 240 cam so Ive been through the procedure without any problems. I have a new chain sprocket and tensioners. What should I do? I was going to change out everything when the snow comes. The cam sprocket looks very worn so Im asuming the crank sprocket looks the same way. I advanced the timing to 15, ran it around the block, and it ran better. What happens if I go to advanced beside loosing power doesnt run to hot and I could burn up valves? So if I get 22 degrees advance out of my dizzy can I asume its from a 280 then? I have another question. Im getting lots of gray smoke all the time. I was going to try to retorque the head but I think Im in for something deeper. I thought this smoke issue went away. I got leaned out It was black smoke but I noticed today after driving 25 miles or so its smoking bad. Any ideas of what I should start reading about would be nice. Ive started searching.

Well Im not sure how to tell which dizzy I have but it is advancing 22 degrees. That is if Im figuring this right I set the timing to 32degrees @ 3000rpms. I did this by making a mark 12 degrees back on the crank pully from the original mark. The new mark is closer to the distributer. When I drop the rpms down to 650 my timming is at 10. This was with the vac adv still attached. Having my cam sprocket set on #3 does this mean I have to advance my timming more to make up for the difference compared to if I set it at #2? I dont really understand the cam setting part I need to read more about it. I have the system down pat for changing it though. Ive been practicing on a spare motor. I advanced the timing to 20 and reved it to 3000rpms and didnt get any pinging. It actually ran very well. Thanks for all the help

Hi, This is my first post. I tried searching and it just led to more unanswered questions. Here goes. I have a stock 260 with lots of miles 160k. My cam is on the number three setting. Thats where it was when I bought it. The chain and gear is pretty worn so I asume thats why its in the #3 position. It also has electronic dizzy from a zx maybe. Im not real sure. I need to figure that out I set it to 7.5BTDC @ 750 rpms and it ran like well not to good. I read in a few threads here that people are running 12-15BTDC and disconnect the vaccum advance. Ive also seen everywhere that your total advance should be 32 @ 2500rpms. Getting to my question here. What does total advance mean? If I start at 7BTDC does that mean it should advance to 39BTDC @ 2500rpms? And say if I start at 15BTDC it should hit 47BTDC @ 2500rpms? Or does this mean I cant go over 32BTDC @ 2500rpms? This always happens I figure things out when I Type it. I remember now reading to set it at 32BTDC @ 3000rpms and dont wory about what it is at idle. I guess I answered my own question. Confirmation would be great. Now because I dont have the fancy timing light I was going to mark out where 32BTDC would be on the crank pully which would be 12 degrees back from the main mark on the crank. So when that mark hits the 20BTDC on the scale I will have gone 12 degrees more past 20. I was going to set the crank pully so the mark is on 20 then use the scale to count back 12. This will work right? Also if I set it 32BTDC @ 3000rpms I need to disconnect the vacum advance correct? I set the timing to 15BTCD and the car went nice but I put it back to 10 until I get this all figured out. Thanks for your time

Ive been looking for the same info as you on my 12/73 260z. I have a gm alternator and a bracket I made for an old 280zx I had. A friend of mine jumped some wires and had it all set in 10 minutes. Dont have the friend for my 260 conversion. Im searching for the swap info so I know what to do when my stock alt dies. I didnt find much in a search but I did find one. This is what I found. "The heavy gauge white wire originally ran from the positive terminal on the starter to the shunt where it hooked up to a red/white wire. I cut the plug at the shunt, ran the white wire to the output terminal on the GM alternator and the other end to the starter. I ran the cut end of the red/white wire to the positive terminal at the starter. The positive lead from the battery also naturally connects to the positive terminal at the starter. The starter terminal gets a little crowded, but I simply envision it as a bus bar that enables you to connect battery power to other critical circuitry in the car. The red/white wire formerly connected to the shunt provides power to the fuse block. It works and is pretty simple, though I have to admit that I was puckered up pretty tight when I first connected the battery."