midnightmoonlight

I have a used set for 125 to your door. They also make a nice brand new cv setup for $$$$ Email me if your interested midnightmoonlight@rocketmail.com

I have a mint one from a 240 shoot me an email midnightmoonlight@rocketmail.com

I have 2 sets in great shape. Send me an email and I can ship them right out. midnightmoonlight@rocketmail.com

I have a nice set of cv's if your still looking for them email me at midnightmoonlight@rocketmail.com

Email me at midnightmoonlight@rocketmail.com if your still looking. I have one from a 78

I have the side mirror and trunk dampers email me at midnightmoonlight@rocketmail.com

I have a complete power steering setup hoses, lines, pump and rack ready to ship.

Alot of times you have to switch them over. I may still have a res if you cant find one

Cantilever slicks need alot less camber then dot r6 and a6. I just thought having these numbers would complete your list. They only need 1-2 degrees from what I understand.

What about cantilever slick allingment? bias ply 23x9x15 ect. I think Im going with 1.5 front and 1 in the rear, 5-6 caster, 1/4 toe for autox. This will be my initial setup and see how it goes

Can I move the stock fuel regulator on a L28 EFI NA to any place on the return line or should it be close to the injectors? Its in the way of my strut bar and I wanted to move it to the end of the fuel rail where it ties into the body fuel lines back to the tank.

It weighs in at 2170lbs. I just have the stock suspension right now with poly, illiminas, and tokico springs

Well I finally got my car ready for the first event this Sunday. After working on other cars I got to mine about 2 months ago. I put in a full cage, fuel cell, gutted the doors and interior, Aluminum dash, lighter seats, lexan rear window, bigger sway bars, 5 point harness, 240mm flywheel, racing clutch, added to frame rails, 11lb battery, rear spoiler, headlight covers, 280zx dizzy, and a mild 2.8 EFI engine swap into my 260. Now that I look back on what I did I covered some ground. The S&W cage isnt worth it. The side bars had to be bent, the roof hoop had to be re-bent, the main hoop had to be re-bent, I wanted a diaganol which isnt provided in the kit, and the bars back to the strut towers had to be re siezed. All the notching had to be re-done. I used the free online notching program and used about 2 grinding wheels to make my notches. I bought this kit used for cheap and would highly advise anyone looking at cages to just buy a $400 bender and some DOM tubing. Here are some pictures. The dinky welder was just used to tack everything together. Not enough juice in a 110 unit to make good welds in my opinion. I used a larger 220 mig for my final welds. The dash is in two pieces because I didnt think I could get it around the pillar cage bars in one piece and get a nice fit up to the window. http://mysite.verizon.net/vze2080r/id63.html

Early 260 1974 autoxer Weighed in at 2170 without driver Today 8 gal fuel cell w/ 3gal gas full 6 point cage 225 15 hoosiers on 15x8 sportmax 002 2 racing seats 12lbs each 6 point harnesses msa larger front and rear sway bars 3 point strut bars gutted interior, everything gone. Aluminum dash with minimal gauges Gutted doors no glass no anything No 1/4 windows Lexan in rear hatch Stock glass windshield r-160 subaru differential 4 speed tranny L2.8 NA EFI header 2.5" exhaust glass pack flowmaster Fiberglass Airdam Metal hood and fenders full wipers all lights "street legal" I need to loose another 105 which shouldnt be too hard Last year I weighed in at over 2500 with full interior no cage no cell, glass, basically stock

Well I think I found my problem. Over the winter my clutch slave rusted up behind the rubber boot and was out too far. If your going to store your car pull the rubber boot and lubricate the inside. Thats what I will be doing from now on. Even just pulling the boot would help. In my search I found 3 collar sizes 70-74, 75-83 na 84-86turbo are the same, 75-83zx 2+2 82-82 zx turbo are the same, So having a 2+2 collar I should be all set. My early 260 had the same size collar as the 78z car I pulled the engine from. Hope that may help others

I have a 2+2 flywheel, 2+2 longer collar, new turbo preasure plate, and clutch. Of course now that everything is in I cant get my slave cylinder on because the slave shaft is to long by 1/4". I have a 260 4 speed. I thought I needed the longer collar when switching to a 240mm setup but it seams like I need to put my old collar back in. Now I read there are 3 collars Am I missing something here before I pull the tranny?

Forgot I had a cd with the 78 wire diagram. That makes this odd year a bit easier. Im almost all set BY starter, WB fuel pump control relay, GL Fuel pump, L ignbox>coil. My only problem now is where to splice into my 260 fuel pump relay mess. I think the fuel pump control 280 is the same as the start fuel pump relay 260 can anyone help there?

I have a fairly simple question. Im about to install a 1978 efi na l28 into my 260. All the wiring is straight forward except one conection under the dash. The EFI bible doesnt have the same wire diagram as what I actually have. I believe my fuel pump relay was behind the fusable link box and is connected to the power feed line that goes to the battery and fusible links. Under the dash I dont have a efi relay. Only the PCM and a 4 wire conector that conects to the dash harness. I could really use a pin out of this 4 wire connector. I think one has to be switched 12v, start 12v, ignition, and one to the full pump. This is the way it runs to the efi relay but I dont seem to have an efi relay only the plug going into the harness. I have the 280 this is coming from and it doesnt have a efi 2 plug relay. I only have until april 13th to get this ready for my first event. Tomorrow is the big day to get alot of work done and this connector will be Sundays headache to figure out. The 4 wire connector is 3 gr and one black on the engine side and gr, blue, white/black, and black yellow. I think its gr fuelpump, whiteblack, ign relay, black yellow starter, not sure on the blue. Also can I use my 260 ignition unit or do I need to swap in one from a 280? I have a zx dizzy which might just be the easier way to go and get rid of the 260 ign unit.

Thanks I never get my search words right

I need all the engine specs for the 240 260 and 280 bottom end. Do the L26 have the same crank and rods of the 240 or 280? Im going to have some engine work done and I need some specs to work from. Thanks

If you use PayPal and dont get the item in x amount of days you can get your money back through paypal. Are you sending this guy money outside of paypal? Paypal is the only way to go if you dont want to get burned

Do these symptoms match a disconnected MAP sensor? We had no juice to the Map sensor. Im waiting on test drive results. Hope we got it!

Thanks for all the info I have a pressure gauge on the schrader valve. I get 35lbs at idle with regulator hooked up and 45 when disconnected. That means my regulator is good per the above info (Ill make sure its not leeking). Ill check to make sure Im holding pressure when the engine is off. I dont have any visible fuel leaks in the system. The last test, I held the throttle open to about 4k rpms it held around 35lbs with the regulator hooked up and 45 with it disconnected but as soon as I left the driveway and ran like crap and the pressure dropped both with the regulator hooked up and disconnected. When I say like crap it seems to run out of fuel before I can shift into 2nd then I barely make it home (home being 1/10 of a mile)

The engine is a 1995 LT1. I thought the stock pump runs at 255L/hr and the pump I have is only 181L/hr. Fuel lines are 3/8 both ways with a connection from metal to plastic half way with a little reduction there. I have to look at the manual and stop being lazy

Okay we are having problems with the fuel delivery on a stock LT1 in a 280z with an unknown possibly EFI pump. We are having pressure drop problems. I tested the pump and Im getting 1.25min/1gal so thats 48gal/hr. The PSI at idle is 35 with the regulator. 45 without regulator hooked up. It drops under load and starves for fuel with and without regulator hooked up. Load meaning barely got up the road and back home. Is 48gal/hr enough? Should I move to possible cloggs although that seems to be about ruled out. I tested the pump off the car when I got the 48/hr. This is hindering our test drive to the driveway.