midnightmoonlight

This site has some info on all the different subaru rear ends. It might help you out if you have any numbers from the cover. http://kmhafer.datsun510.com/Subaru.htm

cut one out of a parts car

Nope.. early 260 have 280 type taillight. You would have to cut and weld to make the 260 work on the 240

Sandwiching the diff between the two mounts makes for less movement and isn't noisy at all. I have an LSD thats supposed to be louder than the non lsd and I dont notice much difference at all. Sandwiching only works with the stock 6 set up. I have 0 sound deadening material in my car right now too. I used the poly mount because its stiffer. When I ordered the part they couldnt look it up by the part number I had to give them the application. I just told them it was a GM tranny mount and got the right item although I had the part number to double check.

I uses a piece of 1x1 angle iron and bolted that to the firewall through the top lip of the firewall. Then welded the tubes to back side of the 1x1. I can post some more pics sunday when I finish it up if you want

Im almost done with my new strut bar. Im going to weld some triangle pieces between the two tubes to add some support.

Pop N Wood I see your mount has the poly off set to the right and on my early 260 its ofset to the left. Now whats the difference in Drivetrain thats making the series one set to one side and the rest to the other? It would seem to me that the mustach bar holes would then be different as well.

There is this one too I came across once. http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/fueltanklines.html There needs to be a faq or sticky on how to simplify emisions

I want to get rid of all that junk too. I have this link you might be interested in http://www.jrdemers.com/280ZX/tankvents/tankvents.html

Are these 2 designs equal in function? (bolt to strut bolts or bolt to brackets thats are welded to the strut tower) This bolt on 3 point design is bolted at the firewall through the lip of the cowl where the firewal and cowl meet. Does that seem okay if its reinforced from the back with a little extra steel?

Anyone know how they attach to the firewall? Maybe some pictures.

I thought so but the picture wasnt very clear

This new msa 3 point strut brace looks nice...not for $229 but a nice design anyway. Im thinking of using this idea to make my own. Is it worth it to build a style that bolts to the strut bolts or should I weld my own mounts to the tower? If I build mine on the center of the tower it goes dirrectly over my su oil fill. Is it better to center the brace on the tower? I was thinking of making one like the msa so I dont have to weld around the motor. Then next winter I can weld brackets to the tower when I go with camber plates and when my motor is out of the way. I would like to make something like this next winter but if the msa type is junk Ill just wait.

Thats the gm mount I used. While using this mount I noticed the top piece with the threaded holes is only attached to the poly. It doesnt seem to me that this would last long with a differential hanging from it in a v8 swap when only using the gm mount. This mount isn't designed to hang. I know alot of people are running this setup but I would like to hear the longevity of that way. I would be more inclined to use a sandwiching method for any aplication so the diff isn't hanging from the mount. The only thing holding it is the bond between the poly and that metal piece at the top. Once you get the driveshaft angle right wouldnt it make sense to put something under the diff so its not hanging?

I just finished installing my differential with the RT bracket and poly gm mount. I sandwiched the diff between the stock mount and the poly mount. Everything lined up fine with the stock motor, trany, drive shaft, ect. I used a r160 lsd but this setup will work with the r180 as well. If the r200 is 3" tall at the nose that should work too. Thought someone would like to know it does in fact work.

So you are running just the swepco 201 and no additive? That stuff looks good now I just have to locate it.

I got the poly gm mount from Suspension Restoration just got it yesterday. LSD Today and Im ready to rip.

They fit like a glove. Great work Roost!

Seth yours puts mine to shame

Thats good to hear. Thanks again for the help. The internet has become one of my favorite research tools. Before this good luck finding special parts you need. For the most part the internet can do just about anything you ask of it.

I get it know. I have 3 books and the fsm for my 260. I hope you will still answer my dumb questions

Thanks for all the help..I think Im going to start working on my 240 motor for practice before I rebuild a 280motor

If I move the cam back to #1 or #2 how do I know that its a good setting? Will the chain be loose if its not right?

Whats the break in time and process after installing new rings? What are the specs on ring measurements? I can probable find them in the FSM. When I pull this engine apart Ill check to make sure, on the off hand chance it has new rings from PO. Im going to be pulling the head this winter no mater what so I can check em then.