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Ozzie831

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Posts posted by Ozzie831

    What to do next

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Ive finally got my 280z turbo up and running and Im extremely pleased with how its turned out, thanks to the help of some guys on here. Even though Ive wanted to throw it off a cliff or two, I think it is time for the next step or at least start thinking about it.  But what to do next? Exterior, interior, MOAR performance!?!?!? What have you guys done?

    Fuel pressure decreases

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted · Edited by Ozzie831

    Sooooooo I went to pick and pull and grabbed a charcoal canister from a geo and hooked it up. Low and behold the car ran pretty good. I ran the car for an hour and there was very little to no change in fuel pressure.... And this test had about a quarter tank of gas or a little bit less

    Fuel pressure decreases

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    Alright Ive done a couple tests since I last posted (some suggestions from guys at zcar.com). I tested the pump by itself and with the car running. I was also advised to turn my pressure down from 60-42(3bar)

    Pump by itself:

    I ran the pump for 30 minutes and there was no fuel pressure loss. I touched the pump while it was running and it wasnt even warm.

    With car running:

    The pressure started dropping after about 17-20 minutes-ish. I let the car run until the car started to lean out and run badly, which was around 45min, so i shut it off. The pump during this test was still just as cool as the solo pump test.

    Me and my massive car knowledge has no idea what this means.

     

    Thanks again for your input, it's helping narrow down the problem. 

    Fuel pressure decreases

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted · Edited by Ozzie831

    Ya Reno NV. So its basically vapor locking? do you have any fuel pump suggestions. Could it be that my fuel pressure regulator is bad (doubt that it is due to the car running fine when its cold but who knows)

    No power from turbo

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    I have a 77 280z that I just turbo-ed and for some reason it feels slower than when I had headers on it. It seems to be faster when the car is not in boost (currently set to 10psi) and that it seems to slow down with boost.

    Car details:

    77 280z (California model)

    Turbonetics T3/T4 .63ar 50 trim

    Aluminum fuel rail

    3" intercooler piping

    55lb injectors

    MSD 6AL

    280zx turbo dizzy

    280zx alternator swap

    Fusible link upgrade to maxifuses

    3" exhaust

    240sx TB

    Electric fans

    MSD blaster 2 coil

     

    I know I left it as a pretty vague but I just have no idea where to start or even what i need to check. I'll be happy to answer any questions to the best of my ability.

     

    Thanks for the help,

    Austin

    Fuel pressure decreases

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted · Edited by Ozzie831

    I have a 77 280z that i turbo-ed and Im having some issues with the fuel pressure and idk what the problem is.

     

    Ive been attempting to get my car dyno tuned but for some reason the fuel pressure drops from 60psi to 40 and then after a few it eventually drops to 20. I originally thought that it was a clogged fuel filter because when I attempted to get it dyno tuned a week ago the car ran out of gas on the dyno. So i got it towed home and bought a new filter to see if that was the problem and it seemed to have fixed it. So today I had another appointment to finish getting it tuned but the same thing happened. So both times it starts fine gets to the shop (approximate 11 miles) but after about 30min-hour or so it just starts dropping. I dont know if the fuel pumps just not working right at that point like if its getting too hot to work or if it is something different altogether.

     

    The car has a fuel pump from summit racing (cant remember off the top of my head which one), Mallory fuel pressure regulator, summit racing fuel pressure gauge and an aluminum fuel rail. I'll try and answer any questions to the best of my ability. 

     

    Thank you for any help,

    Austin

    Weird Battery Voltage

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted · Edited by Ozzie831

    Thanks for the responses. Ill have to go take a peak at some of those wires.

     

    Lazeum: The belt is fine, i looked at that as well. When I tested the battery after i re-installed everything we did rev it a bit and it did go up from 12.32 to 12.48-ish. Ill also take a peek at the voltage regulator thats behind the fuse-able links

     

     I was thinking about the fuse-able links myself but there a bit of an enigma to me. There's 3 red wires and 1 black one. I read somewhere that the black wire was the one that passed the power throughout the engine. I was thinking of doing this to get rid of the fuses http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html.

    Weird Battery Voltage

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    Hello I have just got my 77 280z running a few days ago after its been sitting for about a year and a half (Turbo-ing it).

    Since it sat so long i had bought a new Altima Import 60 AMP alternator and Super Start battery (700CCA) from Orileys near the end of the build.

     

    Towards the end of the build there has been a lot of starting and stopping of the car so i kept it hooked to a charger most of the time. After i got the car tuned a little bit (about a few months ago) my clutch started to slip and I broke a bolt on the water pump....... So i took the entire engine out and redid the timing chain and all that jazz since i was already in there. Got it all back together last week and got the car started a few

    days ago. I started driving around a bit to break in the clutch and the car started two act a little weird.

     

    Yesterday I had driven about 1 mile away from my house to pick up some chinese and i couldnt get it to start, the battery was just too dead. I had to get a jump from a guy that worked there and the car died again while i was driving home (luckily it was downhill so i just coasted home). So today i bought a volt meter and the battery was about 11.32v when the car was off and 12.23 with the car on. So I took the alternator and battery back to Orileys and had them tested. They both passed. So when i got home i tested the battery and it was at 12.6v. I re-installed everything and turned on the car to see if i had hooked everything up correctly and  then turned it off. I rechecked the battery and it was at 12.48v, which i though was a little odd. So i checked it with the car running and it went DOWN to 12.32v...... then i rechecked the volts with the car off and it went back to 12.48-50

     

    Im not very knowledgeable when it comes to this kind of stuff but isnt the voltage supposed to go up with the car on? like to the 13-14ish range?

     

    If anyone has any input, it would be greatly appreciated.

    Austin.

    Noob Looking For Serious Help (Attempting to Turbo)

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Thanks for the reply's. 

    Sleeper: Thanks for the info and the link. The only reason i hooked pin 26 to the dizzy is because the diagram the MS came with said to. But id rather take your word than my skills at reading wiring diagrams. I have a 240sx TB with TPS. I didnt know there was a specific TPS per 240sx TB so I'm gonna have to look it up.

     

    Also i was a little confused on this comment "The dizzy needs 12V to the red wire (pin 28)"; does that mean I run pin 28 straight to the 12v on the dizzy or do i have it split from the dizzy to the 3amp fuse on the fuse box?

     

    I was told by Skirkland that i needed a 1k pull up jumped across pins 24 and 28.

     

    Also I had another question about all the wires that the ballast resistor had on it. Such as the Black/White, White/Black, Blue/Black, Blue wire ETC. Im not 100% where those get hooked up to, if they are even used at all. that is another big part I am confused on.

     

    NewZed: Thanks for posting on another one of my posts haha. Ya I got to the point to where i was just plugging wires together because nothing seemed to work (bad idea I know). I know not having a meter kinda sucks but again i have no idea how to read one. The skills i poses are quite few and far in between haha.

     

    Thanks again everyone, all your knowledge is greatly appreciated

    Noob Looking For Serious Help (Attempting to Turbo)

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    So I had some wires mixed up/not even connected but the problems still remain. So I'm gonna start with the wiring and then after that's all straightened out then I'll worry about the next steps.

    Ill go down the list per pin just in case I'm an idiot and cant read diagrams. (will take pictures if needed)

     

    pin 1: Black wire going to the black wire on the dizzy (this is the black wire inside the shielded wire)

     

    pin 2: Technically not sure where that goes.(this is the random loose wire inside the shielded wire???)

     

    pin 3-6: Not used

     

    pin 7: Going to the black wires on the TPS, Air temp sensor, Coolant temp sensor and the Wide-band

     

    pin 8-14: Not used.

     

    pin 15-19: Black ground wires grounded to the firewall

     

    pin 20: Orange wire connected to the air temp sensor

     

    pin 21: Yellow wire connected to the coolant temp sensor

     

    pin 22: Light blue wire connected to the white wire on the TPS

     

    pin 23: Pink wire connected to the Wide-band

     

    pin 24: White wire connected to the white wire on the dizzy (this is the white wire inside the shielded wire)

     

    pin 25: Not used

     

    pin 26: Grey wire going to the TPS red wire and the dizzy red wire

     

    pin 27: Not used

     

    pin 28: Red wire going to my Jerry rigged fuse box with the 3 amp fuse (photo of fuse box in the original post)

     

    pin 29: Not used

     

    pin 30: Light green wire is connected to the white wire on the MSD 6AL (I was told by Matt at DIYautotune that this is what i was supposed to do)

     

    pin 31: Not used

     

    pin 32 and 33: Blue wires that are connected together then connected to my first second and third injectors (have red power wires going from the 3 injectors to a 10 amp fuse on the fuse box)

     

    pin 34 and 35: Green wires that are connected together then are connected to forth fifth and sixth injectors (have red power wires going from the 3 injectors to a 10 amp fuse on the fuse box)

     

    pin 36: Brown wire going to the negative side on the coil (read on the "how to hook up your MS to your turbo dizzy) diagram)

     

    Pin 37: Purple wire going to the fuel pump relay

     

    Sorry for listing all these but I just want to make sure they are all going to the right location.

     

    Also Metro, I found the MS post. I've seen it before and have been looking for it but I just couldn't seem to find it again ha ha. But I attempted to make a tune with all the tables and settings so hopefully it turns out OK. I'm still not getting any RPM signal thus me looking through all the wiring. Tuner Studio is still going offline so that is still an issue as well.

     

    Thanks again for any advice

    Noob Looking For Serious Help (Attempting to Turbo)

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Im not sure if this would be the best place to put this topic but here goes.

     

    First off I'd like to say thanks for giving this post a look and for any advice you can give. Im not sure what got me into attempting to turbo my car with no experience but i did ha ha. Ive been working on this for almost a year now but i cant seem to finish getting it started. Ive posted a few things on this site and have gotten great feed back so i decided to lump my questions into this post.

     

    Me: Name is Austin 23yo. No real car or electronic background. (thus this car could be royally boned)

     

    The car:

    1977 280z.

    Turbonetics T3/T4 .63AR 50trim

    Eternal Waste-gate

    MSD6al with MSD Blaster 2 coil

    Megasquirt 1 V2.2 plus a DIYautotune generic wiring harness

    Home made fuel rail

    Turbo Dizzy (with shaft)

    3" Inter-cooler piping

    Godspeed inter-cooler

    I believe i have a Mitsubishi eclips BOV ( Im pretty sure but i cant remember) 

    Champion radiator

    Fuel Pressure Regulator

    240sx TB with TPS

    LC-1 Innovate Wide-band

    TruBoost Controller

    Home made stainless steel exhaust 

     

    I think thats all of it.

     

    The issues:

    1: I have read posts about getting your tach to work with MS. I believe I was supposed to get a tach adapter (which i did from summit racing) and connect the Grey wire from the MSD6AL to the blue wire off of the original ballast resistor. (I believe that is what I read or Im on crack). But there is kind of an issue with that; I have 2 blue wires that went around to the ballast resistor and I have no idea which is the right one (assuming that this is the proper way of connecting this). ive looked up wiring diagrams and 1 goes to the ballast resistor and 1 goes to a "BCDD Cut Solenoid". Im not sure which one is which. All i can tell is one is thinner than the other.

    post-22426-0-74972900-1379717822_thumb.jpg

     

    2. Tuner Studio not reading the RPM. (could be due to the fact of issue #1). Not entirely sure how Tuner Studio reads it but it's red on the program.

     

    3. Im not getting any spark from my dizzy to the spark plugs. I was told I needed resistor inside the MS between these 2 pins (cant remember them off the top of my head) but i got that done after the suggestion. New cap and rotor. Problem is still occurring (Im not sure if that is due to me not having a tune)

     

    4. Not being able to find a tune for my version of MS. (I definitely don't have the knowledge to make my own. I just want to attempt to start it.)

     

    5. Tuner Studio saying that it goes offline during cranking. Ive read that if you ground the MS grounds to the battery then this may occur. (I had it grounded to the battery but i just changed it. Have yet to test if it still does it)

     

    5.5. Ive also noticed that my LC-1 and TruBoost gauges also shut off on cranking. (could be the whole grounded to the battery idea)

     

    Im not quite sure if those are my only issues but I cant cant think of any others.

     

    I believe that Ive wired everything correctly other than putting the grounds on the battery.

     

    Here are a few photos of the engine:

    post-22426-0-81096500-1379718993_thumb.jpg

    post-22426-0-34457400-1379719020_thumb.jpg

     

    Here is a photo of the MS fuse box that i made. I know it looks a little Jerry rigged but everything seems to be getting power.

    post-22426-0-96595900-1379719350_thumb.jpg

     

    I am more than happy to answer any questions that you may have and i will attempt to answer them to the best of my ability. I have no issues with taking additional photos if there is something specific that needs to be looked at. Thanks again for taking a look. I know its a little lengthy but I tried to put as much info i could before i forgot all the issues ha ha. I appreciate all comment and suggestions.

    Spark at coil. No spark at spark Plugs

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    Again I have no experience with anything electrical or tuner related haha so all of this is foreign to me haha. Thanks for all the help though. Not having someone here to walk me through it is going to make this a long and frustrating process for both of us haha. I might want to try and take it to a shop and see if they can figure it out. I dont think there are any 280z megasquirt experts where Im at though haha.

    Spark at coil. No spark at spark Plugs

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    alright a little confuse.

    question one: Is a pull up resistor a separate component or is that the 1/4 watt 1k ohm resistor?

    question two: By you saying jump wires, does that mean that Im just basically bridging them with the resistor?

    since I dont have half the stuff on that attached thumbnail, Im even more confused haha.

    Spark at coil. No spark at spark Plugs

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    Do I still need an HEI module if i have a 6al? I talked to a guy at diyauto a while a go and he said I didnt need one if i had a 6al. also i dont have any resistors so that could be another issue. Im also using a generic wiring harness from diyauto so idk if all the pins are the same, it also comes with a lot of wires that you dont use.

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