luseboy
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Posts posted by luseboy
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If you end up having an extra $500, buy an s30 roller and start building. They will be going up in price soon I'm sure, so if you really want one, now is the time to buy, you can just work on it on your spare time, or let it sit (preferably in a garage) for a few years or whatever. I think the DD ability of a Z is all dependent on how you build it.
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I'm building mine with the intentions of DD'ing it, but I also plan to sell my current new car and buy a 521 pickup to have as secondary transportation. I think having a Z as your DD is fine, so long as you have another car that you can use if you can't use your Z. Certain jobs on Z's take a really long time, if you want to do them right. In particular, changing out strut inserts is extremely hard because the damn gland nut is ridiculously hard to remove. If you were stuck with only the Z and you blew out a strut, you'd have to fix it when you had a few free days on your hands. The other tricky thing is that parts aren't readily available localy (at least around here), so you'd have to order most parts... not a huge deal if you have a second car to use, but definitely a cause for stress if you don't have that option. All that said, Z's are certainly DD material, unless you need more than 2 seats. There's plenty of room in the back for groceries/mini horses/nuclear weapons/refrigerators/whatever else you need to carry around
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The die is JUST NOT going to work. It was too tight right out at the start of the thread, where there is no problem at all. I expanded it as much as I could. If I had continued, I would have produced a thread that did not match the filters.
Well I guess that solves that, a new stem is in order, or a new die. The stem is probably cheaper than a new die though.
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I'd say keep giving the threads a try... Make sure you use plenty of cutting fluid and go slowly. If you have the type of die that can expand/contract with a screw, then expand it a bunch first and then contract at periodically. You're gonna ruin it taking it out anyways, and you won't be able to really fix the threads with it out of the block, so I'd say keep trying with a die.
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Ok... not to come across as a ****... But I can't really understand what you're trying to say, and the images are too big for me to see whats going on. Please edit your original post, and put in some smaller images!
No hard feelings or anything, it happens to the best of us!
-Austin
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Here are my 15X9 -15 Aleica's with a 195 45
I cant wait to finish my 240sx coilover installment and test fit them....
Damn those wheels slay me every time! Is that hyper black or gunmetal? and are you planning on doing ZG flares?
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225/50, anything wider is hard to find. Not sure much wider would fit anyway, lol.
I plan on using the MM 240SX rear brakes, though. Somewhere down the posts and quotes I got confused at who had the rear disc conversion apparently.
Ya I mean you can get 245/55/15 toyo's i believe, but they're like a cheap luxury tire. Nothing I'd ever put on a Z. Anything decent in 15" sucks to find. I will probably be using 225/50r/15 falken 912's. Haha I planned on using the 240sx rear brakes too, but later decided I wanted the silvermine kit after hearing constant complaints of it not having enough bite. But I was set even more so on my wheels, so I'm a bit stuck on if they'll work together or not.
Right on! Exactly what I'm looking for - thanks luseboy.
Kali - I'm going with the 205 already. I already have 'proper' wheels for the track but for everyday cruising, good fitment and stance are a must.
Haha no problem man! I will never understand the stretched tire thing, but to each their own.
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That is insane, such a cool engine. Its too bad the 4 cyl. version costs $20k, that's an impressive engine too. Seems like there's a lot of engines that are just as powerful out there for way less money. A twin turbo SBC would be more powerful, though probably 3 times as heavy! So... I guess what I'm trying to say is, which lottery is the best one to enter? Now that would certainly be a hybrid Z
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Very interesting to think about. I guess it makes sense that more rear weight would make faster lap times. I guess on the track, you're better off keeping both rear wheels down, and picking up a front wheel around a corner. Haha not on FWD cars, there's one corner on my local fun-road that if I go around it at about 35 in my mini (really tight road/ S turn), it totaly unweights the front end for a minute (67f 33r weight balance i think), and the front tires will just spin for a moment if i keep my foot in it. Some other corners will lift one rear wheel up. I guess for me, it's more about a car being fun and I guess having the feeling of good handling on the back roads, and I wonder if a little front weight balance is acctually better in that case, so you can let the rear end out a little and keep the front planted... Seems like having more rear weight over the rear end would make it like a porsche- one you get it to slide, have fun getting straight again! I guess I'm also thrown off by the fact that most people (that I've seen anyways) who try and move weight back are drag racers for an obvious reason. I never thought it'd be a good thing on the track. Am I wrong with my assumption that 50-50 weight balance or maybe like 54f 46r would be the most "fun"? I realize this is all subjective, but I'm interested to know... I guess at the end of the day, we're only talking a couple percent of weight balance, which you probably wouldn't even notice on the street anyways, and would only really become an important variable on the track at track speeds... But it's an interesting exercise none the less. Also, I've always wondered, after you add a roll bar, strut bar, speakers, etc. to the back of the car, and sit in the driver's seat, don't you give the rear more weight than the front, since it's basically 50-50 stock? Or is it about the right amount to give you a perfect 50-50 with driver? I guess fuel amount counts too, let's call it a full tank.
I really don't know as much as most people in this thread, I'm just trying to understand what exactly makes a RWD car handle well, or "fun" in my case. I appologize if I've asked some questions that have been beaten to death, or if I don't make much sense (it is 4 am...). Looking forward to my lesson on Z car handling!
EDIT: Forgot to ask... Has anyone done a v4/v2 conversion? I hadn't even thought of motorcycle engines... asuzuki hayabusa engine would probably be a nice lightweight engine, and at 1300cc, it's got some power for sure. Has anyone put one in a Z? I know a lot of guys put them in classic mini's... Hmmm... that'd be pretty darn cool in a Z car. Can you say over 10,000 rpm, 12.5:1 CR, 4 valve per cylinder, DOHC inline 4... that gets 33mpg? and weighs 220 pounds ready to run? Who's doing this? haha is it even possible to use a motorcycle transmission on a car? If that's possible, that may be on my to-do list for when I win the lottery....
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Haha you guys are funny with your stretched tires. Here I am trying to find decent tires wider than 225 to use on my aleica's, I'm worried that'll be too stretched. But maybe not, that's like an 8.9" wide tire... Anyways I wouldn't go off that website. Slamburglars.com has a lot of info about stretching/aggressive fitment. It's a drifting/slammed car forum if you aren't familiar. Guys on there have done it. Someone on there put 195's on a 10 inch wheel I believe. You won't find any s30 specific answers, but as far as tire stretch goes. It wouldn't be that hard to cut out a portion of the inner fender, and welding that to the outer fender (in the rear), that way you end up with a lot of clearance, and an easily rolled lip. Honestly, flares would be your answer. In my opinion, you aren't ruining the car. The ZG flares look great if you ask me (hence why I will be using them). I guess the next big question is how those wheels fit over the mustang rear brakes. Anyone have a picture of the back of a shakotan? The backside of an aleica is crazy, and worries me that I may not be able to fit the silvermine brakes after all
. Here's a pic of a 15x8 et0, I'd get 15x9 et -25 for the rear, which would have another inch of built in spacer.
Seems like a shakotan would be similar, yes?
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You can fit Rota Shaktons in a 9" width in -10 offset under standard guards if you fit a maximum of 195/65/r15 or 205/55/r15 tyre (for a little stretch).
I had Rota Alecia's 9" -10 under standard guards with no issues at all.
Accidently just found this on "post pics of your Z's here"
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Is there any advantage to having more rear weight bias? It seems to me that having a little more front bias, or 50-50 is better, because then you keep weight on the front wheels for steering. Although I suppose you can put the power down sooner with less wheelspin... What're the facts on this, John?
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^ Thanks luseboy. I don't plan on running the Silvermine rear disc setup so caliper clearance is a non-issue for me. I saw pictures of the +0 setup on the other thread and the rears seem like they can take the -10 in stride although I don't know what the poster's camber settings were like. I do believe he was running a 195 tire which may be why it seems less aggressive than what it is.
Would be nice to have someone who's currently running the negative offset Shakotans pipe up with a definitive answer however.
Wow... I put 195's on my 15x7 rims on my daily, and they look way too small, I miss the 205's on my 7" rims haha. But I know stretching allows you to put a bigger wheel in for more clearance. I'd check out the ratsun forums too, the majority of hybridz people aren't as interested in wheel fitment or stretched tires, so not too many people on here are very interested in getting the wheels to fit perfectly. I'm sure you could get the -10's to fit if you stretched tires, installed some camber plates (the gc ones are pretty nice, and don't have to be welded in), and did some fender work. This website has a few examples of different wheel fitments http://www.rimtuck.com/search/thumbnails&make=Datsun&sort=1
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a smaller v6 is going to be the absolute best in this regard. Well actually, a v2 would be better, but those don't exist as far as I'm aware. I know the VQ's and VG's are big V6's, but I believe the vg ends up very centered. That said though, they are heavier than an L series (iirc), and are a pretty involved swap. I'd say just stick with an L series, and you'll be happy. You could push it back a bit if you really wanted, but that wouldn't really be worth it if you ask me.
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I don't want to run spacers if I can buy the right sized wheel in the first place. I know the +0 fits modestly well on the S30 but will the -10 fit both the front and rears without having to molest the fenders or having to run ridiculous camber?
I always thought the 0 offset was the right fit for stock fenders, but I could be wrong. The other side is that if you chose to sell the wheels down the road, a 0 offset will be much easier to sell, because then you get them on the radar of all the miata and 240sx guys. H&R wheel spacers are the way to go if you do it, and I don't think you'd notice any difference between it and a wheel with that offset. I'm pretty sure a 15x9 et0 is acctually an aggressive fitment anyways, most people seem to run 15x8 et0's with stock fenders/qaurter panels. Scroll through the wheels thread and see what people run.
I think he is implying that may have to use a spacer no matter what due to the back of the face design on the wheel. The caliper possibly hitting the back of the wheel. Therefore you need a spacer to space the wheel farther from the caliper so it clears. In which case, it would likely be that the wheel will hit regardless of what size and offset you choose.
This is currently worrying me on my car, if the back of the face of my wheels will clear the rear disc conversion. I already have -40 offset on a 15x10. I really don't have a lot of room left to go farther out!
Well yes, if you plan on doing the silvermine rear disk conversion. However I don't believe that soup was talking about running those brakes on his car. I could be wrong though. The measurment of the silvermine's highest point is 13.6" (diameter), and this is at about the same placement as the hub mounting surface. I'd think with 1.5" of offset, you're probably going to clear. I'd make sure to measure first though, silvermine doesn't give refunds if your brake doesn't fit. Btw, way off topic, but what tires are you running on your 15x10's? I plan to run 225/50's on my 15x9's, but would like something with no stretch.
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Hey Soup I already bought mine havent had the chance to mount them yet being that I'm in Japan and my 280z in CA. I have the 15x9 -15 all around. The plan is s13 megan coilovers(already purchased) ZG fender flares, with 5mm spacer on the front and 10-15mm spacer on the rear for fitment of the Silver Mine Rear Disk conversion, with a slight grind to the top of the capiler for some spacing issues. Going for a -3 to -5 degree camber for rear and -1 to -3 for the front camber. Tire size is the same with 205/50/15. Without the spacers I should have approx 4.5" of back space. Granted theres only a certain amount reading you can do until you actually mount the wheels find out that they might not fit without some mods, at that point you just move on and make'em fit. Think of it this way, if you like the way they look then just get them how you want. I like mine wide kinda low and functional. Though I have 3 sets of wheels, eventually going to purchase a set of Diamond Steelies prob 16x11 not sure of the off set though.
I'm interested in how you're going to get the brakes to fit. I plan on getting rota aleica's in a 15x9, and I want to use the silvermine kit but idk if I can get it to fit. I am going to be running ZG flares, about the same offset as you (prob getting -25 rears, and -10 fronts then spacing if nec.). Would you mind PM'ing me when you get them to fit, so I know it can be done?! That'd be awesome.
To answer the OP's question, if I were you, I'd just get the 0 offset's, and use a spacer if necissary. If you decide to run flares, you can run a lot more (less technically) offset.
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Now that's how you do it. I'll be looking for your build thread. I'm hopefully going to have my car relatively completed in the next 5 months because I'll be going to college soon. I've already started setting up the triple pods. If anyone has any broken clock gauges I'll send you a couple bucks for them. It's a lot easier to mount a 52mm gauge to a clock bezel because it doesn't have that bar that splits the gauge in half... gotta figure out how to remove that.
Haha I kinda gave up on the whole build thread thing for now, not enough to update on regularly. I'm gonna wait until I paint the car to update it again. I hope my car will be on the road in 5 months, we'll see. I'm going to college soon too haha, but only about a 45 min. drive from here. I'll see what can be done about that cross brace, I'll start pulling my gauges apart when I have some free time soon, and tell you what I come up with.
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Can't argue with that, was my original plan. Can't wait to see the build. Mine won't go in till this spring because I'm planning a major tear down of the interior over spring break.
I'm sure yours will be done before mine. My car is about ready to have the remaining rear suspension removed, and to be put up on a rotisserie to cut out and replace the floor pans and frame rails, and to weld in some subframe connectors. It will be quite some time before I'm ready to install my suspension. And even longer before I install any interior... haha.
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edit*: As for a budget gauge, you can get ones from glow shift and autometer comp. for about $100, they will work with electrical/mechanical senders depending on what you get. However, you loose your turn signal and highbeam indicators. The advantage of the speedhut is you get to keep those features and custom design your own gauge AND an impressive lifetime warranty.
I'm still looking at the stuff summit has. I'm not too concerned about turn signal/high beam indicators. I might just put 3 little led's in the dash under the speedo; one blue one in the middle, and one green one on each side. The blue to indicate high beams and the green for turn signals. We'll see.
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I'm no expert on gauges, but I don't think an electrical sender would work with a mechanical gauge.
Haha whoops forgot to mention that that'd be for an electronic speedo. Some people have claimed it to work, but I can't find anyone who's acctually used it. I'm still searching. Edit: This post says that the electronic sending unit can be used. I guess I will just buy the summit one and use an electric gauge. Problem solved, in case anyone else is looking for a less-expensive option.
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The ones from speedhut operate with a GPS signal with an included sender. You don't need a cable or sensor. It's the best way to go for street use. If you're building a race car, then you probably want to run something such as a mechanical competition series gauge.
Woah! Thats pretty trick... I'll have to see if they make one that matches the proform tach I plan on getting... Hmm looks like they are really expensive for the 5" size. Would it be possible to make something like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G2887-2/ work with our speedo cogs? or is there another more economical gauge that can be used?
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Oh ya forgot to mention that I stumbled upon the techno versions meter match: http://www.technoversions.com/MeterMatchHome.html . Not useful for a speedo, I don't think it would be for a tach either, but definitley seems like a good fix for any other gauge that uses an electronic sending unit.
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This is a little off topic, but I figure it can help the OP and others (such as me) who look at this thread. How did you hook up an aftermarket speedo? I'm assuming you can get the stock gear to mate to an aftermarket speedo cable? Or do you have to join the aftermarket speedo cable to the stock one to get it to work?
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You can use the s13 rear subframe, I've heard it's almost a bolt in except the front two bolts need somewhere fabricated to bolt up. However that subframe weighs significantly more than the s30 one and doesn't handle significantly better. I've heard megan struts are about $100. I'd imagine they'd be willing to give you a free one after hearing your story. What spring rates do those coilovers have though? S30's really shouln't use more than about a 300lb spring without severe chassis stiffening, as the unibody will flex before the strut/spring will get into its travel. You can use a wilwood 1" master cylinder for the brakes (see sticky), and a wilwood 7/8's for the clutch master. The biggest problem with the z for drifting is steering lock, you just cant get enough angle to get really nice drifts (or so i've heard). The subaru (forester?) power steering rack is almost a bolt-in, and I've always thought it wouldn't be that hard to make it work as a rear-steer rack, by cutting the steering rack "ears" off the X-member and welding them on the back of the x-member, and shortwning the steering rack. I'd imagine that would be doable, an would give you the opportunity to modify the steering knuckles in such a way to give you more angle (by making them longer, i think?). Anyways looking forward to seeing your progress!
That is insane, such a cool engine. Its too bad the 4 cyl. version costs $20k, that's an impressive engine too. Seems like there's a lot of engines that are just as powerful out there for way less money. A twin turbo SBC would be more powerful, though probably 3 times as heavy! So... I guess what I'm trying to say is, which lottery is the best one to enter? 
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Welded diff on a 240z
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Hey,
So I'm about to go and work on my car again for the first time in a couple weeks (ansy to start working again!), and the next big thing is removing/rebuilding all of my rear suspension/driveline. I don't know what condition my diff is in, or what it is. I believe it to be the stock R180 that came on a '73 240z in california (any ideas?). It does appear to have the stock half shafts. I want to upgrade to an lsd eventually, but it is an expense I will have to spare for now. A friend of mine (a drifter) recently welded the diff on his miata, and this got me thinking... maybe I should just weld my diff for now, and then upgrade to the lsd later on. No, I am not a drifter, and I don't plan to really 'drift' in my s30. I like to 'grip' though on occasion I will wag my tail just a little bit. What is the downside to a welded diff versus an open diff? I know it won't be as good as an LSD, and I know it has the potential to blow up, but is it worse for 'grip' handling than an open diff? Seems to me that it could be pretty bad, considering both rear wheels would always want to be going the same speed... But maybe it'd acctually be good? I guess this is just a thread questioning whether or not this would be good or not. I am sure Jmorteson and JohnC have some very valuable input here. Again, I am not asking if a welded diff is a good substitute for an LSD, but rather, if it would be better or worse than an open diff from a handling, driving spirited on the backroads perspective.
Thanks,
Austin