JeffGarcia77

Neeeeveer mind, just re-read your post.

Yeah, could have been the same guy/pilot. I think he was buying his body kit directly from the factory (Arizona). What are you going to do with your project? Keep it or sell it? Jeff

Wagz, Are you the guy I sold an R-200 to about two years ago, roughly? You're a pilot, right? I was wondering how the Velo Rossa was coming along. If I have the wrong guy, I apologize. Regardless, good luck with your non-Z endeavors. Jeff

Nick, thanks for the additional info. I rewired my 1977 for an internal regulator alternator, and I'm currently running a 280ZX (non-turbo), 60 amp (?) alt. I haven't added any electrical devices to my car, it's all stock, and I seem to get a much more consistent and somewhat stronger charge to my battery with the internal regulator alt. I might upgrade to one of those Iraqi heavy duty alts. before I install an electric radiator fan and Hella Hella-vision headlights, just to be safe. I was also thinking about replacing my side marker, brake, and tail light bulbs (incandescent) with LED "bulbs" (lamps). They save MONGO amps. Tony D, thanks for shedding new light on this topic. Speaking of new and better headlight harnesses, Black Dragon sells one for $30, with the larger-gauge wiring and additional relays. I'll probably "re-route power to the main deflector sheild" with one of those harnesses someday. Jeff

But if you're installing one of the above-mentioned alternators on a pre-'78 Z, do you have to re-wire for internal voltage regulation? Or do these alternators use external regulation? Thanks

I found not one, but two, Kia Sportages (both 1997) today in a 4X4 junkyard in my area. Between the two, I found a perfect pair of front door seals. The bastage wants $30 for the pair, though. Seems a little high, but I guess I'll buy them anyway, while I have the opportunity. But I just wanted to let others know, the upper corner (1997 Kia Sportage weatherstrip) where the door window meets the quarter window is slightly rounded. It's NOT a crisp, sharp angle like the Zcar weatherstrip. Granted, the Kia weatherstrip's curve in that area is a very short radius. One could cut it at an angle and join the two ends together with glue, just to get a stock look, or possibly a better seal. I'll see what's required when I pick them up on Monday and test fit them on my '77.

although you can also get a small blow torch and heat it, then scrape. its nearly as easy... Yes, but wouldn't that stink up the interior, like a hot mop roofing crew had been working in his car? And wouldn't the heat ruin the undercoating on the bottom of the car? I'm assuming his car is street driven. I would go with dry ice.

Jumpman, I believe you have to "freeze" the sound insulation/vibration damping crap with the dry ice, then whack it with a hammer while it is brittle. This action is supposed to free it from the metal. Hope this helps.

Thanks, guys! I think that's within my price range .

How much are junkyards asking for these (Kia, Maxima, Integra, etc.) used door seals? I realize it will vary, depending on the yard, from giving them away to charging "book" price. Thanks

Have you tried hiring "Men Who Stare at Drums"? Maybe they can make your drums just fall off. Seriously speaking, I had to cut mine off with a cutoff wheel (made a square cut, with the square being slightly larger than the hub). After pulling the major part of the drum off, I used a chisel to separate the flat part of the drum from the hub (seriously corroded together). I was able to make a homemade puller to get the first (driver's side) drum off. I applied a hell of a lot of force with the "puller", then beat on the edge of the drum from the back side. After a few very hard whacks, the drum and puller went flying clear across the two-car garage I was working in. Also, be careful with metal shards breaking off when you're beating metal with metal. Before you put your new or used drums on, wirebrush the surfaces thoroughly to remove rust, then apply a VERY thin (barely there) layer of anti-sieze compound. You don't want anti-sieze slinging out and getting on your drum friction surfaces. Good Luck!

Real life? Zs ARE real life. Good find there, Malus. Good research.

I was given a set of those when I bought a '75, back in 2001. I had the old tires removed from them and noticed that they were REALLY heavy! I decided I didn't want such a great rotating mass slowing my car down so I sold them to the metal buyer for scrap. But FYI, they are a very common wheel and probably aren't worth more than about $25 each. Plus, they're hard to clean. Just my attitude toward these wheels.

OK. I didn't realize the front Tokico 240Z springs were progressive. But hey, this could create a niche for a whole new product! Stock-type upper strut isolators with long studs, plus machined aluminum spacers! Tom, I hope this discussion helps you in solving your suspension puzzle and achieving your goals. Jeff

Thanks for the spring specs and the historical insight, John. I've often been baffled as to why there aren't more spring rate choices out there (in the "stock diameter" type springs). Some folks don't want to lower their Z more than about 1/2 inch, but yet they'd like to increase the spring rates into the 180-200 lb./in. range. Or even 140 fr., 165 rr. on a 280Z sounds good to me. Would those 240Z springs from Tokico work on my '77 280 (still has stock strut tubes and spring perches)? I like your idea about machining a spacer to fit on top of the strut-top isolator. I'm just not ready to give up my rubber isolators and the way they reduce NVH. I suppose the thickness of that spacer would be limited by the length of the mounting studs which go through the strut tower? Thanks

Boknal (Nynorsk) Tom, I've never driven a 260 horsepower Z with these European spring rates, so I can't say if they're stiff enough to control the squat (weight transfer). Your contact at Motorsport can probably advise. Or maybe someone on Hybridz wants to chime in. Jeff

Yes, the Nissan stage 1 European springs. I have them on my 1977 coupe, and I bought them from Motorsport Auto. The front spring rates for 280Zs are 122 pounds per inch, and the rears are 142 pounds per inch. They only lower the car slightly, if any. The amount of lowering depends on the weight of your car. For your information, the 240Z Stage 1 Euro springs were 101 pounds/inch front and 112 pounds/inch rear. The 260Z Euro springs were 120 pounds/inch front and 141 pounds/inch rear. This spring rate information can be found in the old Nissan Motorsports catalogs. Sorry, I don't have the stock spring rates any more, I wrote it down somewhere, in the 1980s, but now I can't find it. Jeff

I assume you mean a stand alone system that is Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor driven? (MegaSquint?). I kinda prefer the idea of having a MAF. It seems to be, from what I've read, a more accurate device for measuring the amount of air entering the engine.

Derek, I believe the price he told me was $965, but you might want to confirm that with the guy at Modern Performance. Yeah, he sells them apparently. Take a look at the link to teamdfl.com that I provided in my first post. It shows a picture of the MAF and air filter installed on a 1988 BMW (pic doesn't show much detail, but...) I think MOST of his customers are BMW and Porsche guys (many of whom also have Bosch FI with AFMs as original equipment). Jeff

I found out about this on a BMW website (www.teamdfl.com/bmw/e28/induction/maf.html), then I called Modern Performance at (732) 222-3679 in West Long Branch, NJ, to ask if they could develop a Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) conversion for the 280Z-280ZX, and he told me they already have it! The price includes the MAF, cone air filter, and a piggyback computer which can control other things (like additional injectors, etc., etc.) in addition to converting the signals from the new MAF into signals the Datsun ECU can use. I've been looking for something like this for a long time, because the idea of having the restriction of the Air Flow Meter flap (vane) in the intake tract has always bothered me. I KNOW it HAS to be holding this good Datsun engine back, in terms of power and response. Modern Performance's e-mail address is mp23cc@aol.com I was unable to find a website for them. I spoke briefly on the phone to a very friendly, informative guy at the above number. He should be willing and able to answer all your questions by e-mail or phone.

Streeteg, There is a company who makes totally bolt-on, remove-and-replace upper strut mounts which allow adjustment of camber and caster. Their name is K-mac (k-mac.com) and they're in Australia. You can use stock diameter springs (retaining the upper and lower spring perches), or 2.5" inside diameter "coil over" springs, with appropriate upper and lower spring perches. K-mac camber/caster adjustors allow up to 2 degrees of positive camber adjustment, or up to 2 degrees to the negative side. 4 degrees total. Unknown what the caster adjustment range is. I am not using these K-macs on my '77 coupe, but I would like to try them when money allows. In fact, my suspension and steering are all stock, except for the Nissan European springs (122 lbs./in. front, 142 lbs./in. rear), urethane anit-roll bar bushings, and g-Machine ball-and-socket compression rod kit. I also installed all new rubber bushings in the control arms. Yeah, I have a long wish list of suspension parts, but for now the car is relatively quick, and is fun to drive. Jeff

Hello Wout, I just saw a picture of a 1974 Cherry 4-door on some Datsun history website. Interesting looking car, with design elements from other early '70s Datsuns and Hondas. There's also a Cherry restoration on some British website. It's a 2-door, British racing green, and there are lots of in-progress pictures. Sorry, I lost the web address, but if you Google 1974 Datsun Cherry, it comes up on the first page. My family owned a 1974 B210 2-door hatchback for many years. Soon after we bought it, we transplanted a 1980 210 engine and 5-speed transmission into it. The car ran MUCH better with the bigger engine and overdrive trans., but it was still a pretty awful little car, HA HA! It buzzed and rattled and droned horribly, and it had the typical Datsun "singing differential". In fact, my youngest sister was out of town in the B210 (100 miles away) visiting her girlfriend, and the differential ring gear broke about 5 teeth off! I had to go get her, and move the car out of the parking lot where it broke. And it was already night when she called for help. Ah, memories Jeff

By the way, what is a Datsun Cherry? What American-market model is a Cherry equivalent to? Is it a B-210 or ?

Van Aken, Very good write-up about the vehicle inspections in Holland. We should have such tough standards here in the U.S. Thanks for the information, and keep working on your Z. It looks great! Keep the pictures coming to Hybridz! Jeff

Van Aken, I salute you, sir. That is an incredible amount of work you're doing there. Does your government force the owners of extremely rusty cars to remove them from the road, like in Germany? If so, save all your pictures to show to your "T.U.V.", or whatever they call it in Holland. They may want to see all the repairs you're making. Let me know if Holland allows people to drive rusted out cars until they literally fall apart, like the U.S. does, or if you guys have a yearly inspection program which includes a structural inspection. I think we would all like to know.