SlowRob

It's been a few years since the last bump - Are you still selling these? I found a steel set online, but would rather support a fellow member.

Thanks guys - Honestly didn't expect such a quick response! I have my core with my radiator guy, I'll know by tomorrow if I'll be taking up one of your kind offers. Thanks, and I'll update as soon as I hear the status of mine.

Does anybody have a decent heater core they want to part with? The usual stores don't stock them and The Z Store wants entirely too much. Shipping would be to 18106.

Million dollar car with a $50 dash carpet. Huh??

As long as your lug nuts don't have any slop radially, they will naturally center. If there is slop radially - side to side - then they won't work. The slots aren't an issue because they only allow movement in one direction for any given opposed pair. The perpendicular pair fix that movement, causing the wheel to center.

In my setup, not switching the lines will cause the front circuit on the master to feed the rear of the car. Is this what you have and it works without issue?

I found a 15/16 master and matching booster from a 280zxt, manual trans, that I'm swapping into my 77. However the pushrod on the zxt booster is offset to the top of the mounting pattern - it comes out above the center of the rectangular mounting bolt pattern - while my setup is offset to the bottom; even the hole in the firewall sits toward the bottom. My question is: Is there any reason not to mount the booster upside down from its original position? I'm fairly familiar with the workings of a booster and can't think of anything prohibitive. I've mocked it up and everything fits perfectly. The larger booster clears the lines and clutch master perfectly. I just have to reverse the orientation of the lines -front to rear.

no

Your short shouldn't have done anything, nor should just cleaning the links. Check all the major connections; Links, Alt, Battery, making sure everything is good. Put a meter on the system - engine running - and see if it confirms the gauge. If it does, then it's the probably the regulator. If the meter shows a steady ~13.8v, then it's your gauge. I suspect the latter. You should be ale to check at the battery. Nominal charging voltage for most alternators is ~13.8v. The battery will buffer the reading to some extent, but if the alternator is full fielding, you'll see something far above 14v.

'78 should still have an external voltage regulator.

I'm looking to gauge the interest in a custom plate to mount the later ZX distributor to the older [points] style base. I recently converted my distributor, but didn't have the luxury of acquiring the mount from the ZX donor; The mount being the aluminum collar that actually bolts to the front cover. Neither adjuster plate would work; the points plate did't fit the ZX distributor and the ZX plate didn't fit the points base. I ended up making up my own hybrid adjuster plate from some ~2mm plate I happened to have laying around. If there's any interest - I can't be the first one this has happened to - I can make a CAD file of the part available (I haven't developed yet because I've only made the one by hand). That way any CNC shop can cut/burn one out on the cheap, or print out a pattern to cut by hand. If there's interest, I'll take mine apart and draw it up.

This site sometimes turns molehills into mountains. Agreed it's minor weeping. You could re-torque if you wanted, but I doubt you'd see a difference. On SBCs running Al heads on Fe block, I've seen more issues pop up after somebody retorqued a pair well driven heads. Gasket material used plays a huge part.

Ah - Forgot that i was starting with the wrong motor in my swap. I had an FI chassis complete, but no motor, sourced the carb'd motor and mod'd from there. Thanks for the catch. And i don't know about the '78, but my '77 had the enormous transistorized box that lived by the fuse box inside. If you're going through the trouble, why not ditch the crappy setup for a better one?

I did the same swap - it's very easy. Roughly, it goes like this. The FI harness separates from everything else very cleanly, so pull it, the ECU and anything connected to it including the stock ignition module under the pass. side dash. The only thing I saved was the FP relay which just took understanding the schematic. There are two wires to the FP relay that are part of the FI harness that connect to the AFM as a deadman. Leave those two wires in place (both green like most of the FI harness) and do one of two things: Connect to an oil pressure switch to run the pump only when there's oil pressure (safe way in case of crash), or just tie them together until you decide how you want to deal with them (what I am doing). I unwrapped the entire FI harness, stripped out the unwanted garbage (almost all of it) then re-wrapped and routed what was left. I then bought a bypass regulator ($80) and, using the stock hardlines in the engine bay, plumbed the inlet of the reg to the feed from the stock pump. Plump the bypass from the reg to the return line. Then, reg output goes to the carbs, deadhead. There are other options here, I haven't found one to be better than another. The stock carb rail has an orifice in it to regulate pressure, but I didn't want t trust that against the FI pump. Next you need to deal with ignition. I started with a stock points dist. that had been converted to an optical trigger and an Allison unit (now Crane). I recently swapped to a zx dist (with the E12-92 module - which works fine, regardless of what some folks say). The wiring needed is already at the Dist - mainly 12v+keyed. Exactly what is needed will depend on what dist you use. Ignition, in general, is fairly easy. You need 12v to charge the coil and some control to manage firing the coil. Look up any of the distributor swap writeups and you'll be fine. The temp sensor line is already there coming from the chassis harness on the left fender. Oil Pressure is already there on the right fender. The job is not a difficult one, but you do need to be able to read, trace and understand a wiring schematic to do it cleanly.

I had the same issue, running an old Allison optical trigger in the distributor. It turned out the trigger wheel had mis-located, throwing the timing out of whack. Curiously, mine ran fine with 50 degrees advance, and also fine when set properly.