SlowRob

Fan is on a control and cycles correctly. Rad is not new, but was cleaned and tested before install. Rad guy said it was in great shape and was flowing well.

Yes it does. If I push the idle to ~2000, it creeps up. I would mention that at normal idle, the fan moves enough air to bring the temp well below normal. This is essentially a bone stock 2.8 Also, the thermostat was replaced recently and is functioning properly.

I recently made some changes to my cooling system and am now having an issue or two. Before the change my temp ran right at ~180 degrees with little variation. Whether I was cruising, idling or driving "spiritedly" the temp stayed fairly constant. I was running a 16" electric fan, set up as a pusher (I know) slightly angled off the rad (3 core) because it was too big. Not a great setup, but it was working. I have since made two changes: I switched out to a more powerful 14" fan setup as a puller which has a good seal to the rad. When it runs, it's moving a ton of air, seemingly much more than the old setup. I also removed the water circuit for the manifold heat to my SU carbs. I assumed since this circuit ran parallel to the heater core that it shouldn't be an issue; worst case I just open the hot water valve and the coolant system is essentially unchanged. My issue: The car now runs hot (~210deg) at anything over ~1500revs. At idle, the temp settles right back down to ~180. While cruising, if I clutch it and let it idle, it drops down to 180. And, if I cruise slowly enough to keep the revs down, it rides around the 180 mark. As soon as the revs go higher, the temp runs up. What seems odd is that it drops down/up about as quickly as the guage is capable of moving, so I'm pretty sure it isn't actually changing temp by ~30 degrees that quickly. Even if I open the heater valve so that circuit is active, it behaves the same. I'm thinking that I have an air pocket stuck someplace, but I've done everything I can think of to bleed the system. Are there any tricks that I should know about? Does the manifold heat circuit really have an affect on running temp? Absolutely any help would be appreciated! Thanks! Rob

The only running difference between 305 and 350 is the bore. However, the blocks are completely different; a 350 block has much more cylinder material so it is inherently stronger and more reliable, can be bored larger, and can therefore make more power. if I recall correctly, the cooling and oiling passages were also redesigned for the 305 to reduce physical size, but were proven to be ineffective. As mentioned before, the aftermarket is geared towards the 350, so parts are readily available and amazingly cheap. You can get an entire rotating assembly kit for well under $1000.

They're louder than...well...they're loud. Cruising rev's are loud. Running it out is loud. The sound is unique, though, as they sound like two slightly out of phase motors running at once. It's a very subjective thing, but I don't really like the sound. I'm looking at switching to a more conventional 3in single pipe setup. The only reason I have them is because they came with the motor that I bought off of ZGad on here.

I'm running virtually the same setup and left the prop in-place. Braking is quite even, locking all four wheels evenly. Don't forget that wheel/tire choice will also affect proportioning.

Neither - It's technically not deadheaded as it's an adjustable bypass regulator. The carbs are deadhead from the reg, but the varying consumption is accounted for by the regulater; it will allow full volume to the carbs if that's what it takes to maintain the preset pressure. I hadn't thought about using a standard reg to backpressure the carbs. Thanks for the tip! And since the pump is already a Bosch replacement, it sounds like I won't need to worry for a while.

Motorcycle manufacturers utilize variable intake horns to maximize intake tuning effects. In simplest form, they have movable velocity stacks. At low RPM, the velocity stacks are in place, lengthening the compression wave, maximizing low end performance. As RPM rises above a set threshold, the stacks are removed - a servo lifts them off the throat of the runner - increasing high end performance. Keep in mind that they're working with 600 - 1000cc engines that spin to between 12k - 16k RPM. I'd still be interested to see if a gain could be found using this idea on these [much] lower reving motors.

I have a carb'd 2.8 in my '77z. I'm using the stock (from the '77) electric pump feeding a bypass regulator and into the carbs. The stock return for the carbs has been eliminated as the regulator feed the excess back to the tank.. The regulator shunts the pressure to a carb friendly level and I have no issues with too much/little fuel. Has anybody had experience with this type of setup? Does anybody suspect I'll have any long term issues with the pump running virtually no-load all the time?

The main benefits of longer rods are increased T&B dwell and reduced piston acceleration. Both increase resistance to detonation and reduce wear. I built a 383 SBC using 6.0 rods (over 5.7 stock) running 11.3CR on pump gas. Output was >500hp and >500lbft, spinning to 9000rpm. Motor has been together for over 50k miles and still pulls like an elephant and is still making >200psi static. If I ever build the L28, I'll be looking at long rod combinations.

Before installing a motor I sourced from a fellow HybridZ member, I replaced every externally accessible gasket and seal I could find. Very small time and money investment for a leak free motor.

I think I have one laying around that you're welcome to. I'll check the length, get a pic and PM you tomorrow.

The undercarriage of my Z is treated with the POR15 deal, and while it hasn't seen a ton of miles, it looks as new as when it was applied 10 years ago. Be sure to use all of the recommended POR products for prep, etc, and it should hold up well. And I'll second the comment re:filled holes. In hindsight, I'd fill all bolt holes with clay or vaseline first.

Actually - No he hasn't. So.... I'm still on the lookout for one.

Thanks All - Victor_Zedman hooked me up!

Still looking for the bracket/pulley combo. I'm just about ready to start this thing up after sitting for 10 years.

I forgot to mention - I also need the idler pulley. Unfortunately, I'm on a very tight (wife inflicted) budget.

I'm in need of the bracket that joins the ac compressor with the block for the L28E. It's going to a '77 280z, but I think the bracket from any S30 will work. Thanks! Rob

The dash vents only supply A/C air, no heat. Heat only comes out at floor or defrost. If changing the mode switch doesn't change where air is coming out then you have a vacuum problem somewhere. The vacuum for the system enters via a port n the firewall near the heater hoses. Start there and work in. Verify that you have vacuum getting inside, then find the leak. It's probably not actuators if no modes change at all. Likely the main feed got nicked, or the selector switch crapped out.

I'm looking for a replacement lower fascia/air dam for a '77 280z. I'm on a tight budget, so I'm hoping somebody has something "laying around" that they can part with. I have or can get the stock piece, but I was hoping to replace with something better looking - something like this http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7AD1/50-1409. I know they aren't that expensive new, but thought I'd throw this out there and see what came back. I'm in the Allentown PA area. Thanks!