ZDreamin72

hmm...okay...we'll see what is goin with cash flow also

would you mind sendin me a quote on price for the project? what would you charge? whats material cost?

Not too sure on price, but how about a RSX Type S...or is it Type R? i dont know, jsut get the K20 engine; or even better get a Honda Civic(EGchassis) and swap in a K20, mad revving horsepower, with a supoer light chassis, and it totally legal, if you keep the motor stock for inspection. someone had posted something on the subject not too long ago i believe about the california BAR or somethin of the sort...check it out. my friend has an evo viii, i drive it from time to time, love it, great horsepower, and with simple stage one mods it had jsut over 400 horsepower, great handling, super fun to drive, he got it with cash back on a galant trade...personally id go with the wrx sti, same setup, more stock horsepower, six gears, little heavier, but opposed motor sounds great. you pick

Alright guys, i have original paint, no bonda work at all, couple dents here and there, the usual roof dents that plague zs door dings, minimal rust, very minimal, and windows are already pulled out. What is a reasonable paint quote i am to expect to get for painting the car, zcar orange again, this time with a clear coat to make her look shiny...expecting to go with a two stage paint, paossibly a three stage but probably not. I went to a body shop nearby body shop, they said that a two stage with them doing inside and out, removing everything but the engine, i would have to do it myself, stripping the car down to the metal and then fixing blemishes from that point and then paint; their quote was $9,000 for a "show quality" job. Now i feel that to be somewhat reasonable, but not the job i was lookin for, maybe another day when i have that much cash to squander. What would i expect to pay for a nice job; no orange peel lookin paint, probably color sanded, and clear coated, probably two or three times? just checkin with what you guys have experienced; could you possibly post pics of your cars painted as well with you quotes so i can get a better idea?

Figured you might wanna know, besides the one that my father owned and my brotherwrecked, when i wanted to get a car of my own i was searchin and stumbled across your video, and that made me decide to buy a z, and now shes up and runnin waiting for a show quality paint job as well...thank you

sorry shoulda posted deatails, they're both 1972 Datsun 240z's

Alright guys so i have a z that ive finally put together, and i have two other parts cars; the car is generally put together but i know there are certain parts in a z that are hard to find these days and was wondering which parts i should remove off the parts cars to put into my good car before i sell them. Any ideas? its all boddy specific parts, no engine, and one has a four speed in it. Just somethin i figured id ask you guys before selling them. Also, i know im going to be seeling them eventually, what would you pay for a roller/minus engine and trans??

yea well i already got a new alternator, so im probably goina stick with this until it goes bad again...i give it a couple months;)

alrighty, figured i could get more of a response, but well noted, thank you; sorry

Alright so it's either to voltage regulator or the wiring somewhere, because i went and replaced the alternator, the voltage at idle did go up, and the highest voltage also did go up as well so it got better just not fixed, so now i have to spend fifty bucks on a voltage regulator to find out if i thave wires to replace huh

Alright so it's either to voltage regulator or the wiring somewhere, because i went and replaced the alternator, the voltage at idle did go up, and the highest voltage also did go up as well so it got better just not fixed, so now i have to spend fifty bucks on a voltage regulator to find out if i thave wires to replace huh

Alright so it's either to voltage regulator or the wiring somewhere, because i went and replaced the alternator, the voltage at idle did go up, and the highest voltage also did go up as well so it got better just not fixed, so now i have to spend fifty bucks on a voltage regulator to find out if i thave wires to replace huh

Alright so it's either to voltage regulator or the wiring somewhere, because i went and replaced the alternator, the voltage at idle did go up, and the highest voltage also did go up as well so it got better just not fixed, so now i have to spend fifty bucks on a voltage regulator to find out if i thave wires to replace huh

how do i check to see if the alt is sending voltage before the regulator?

yea tension is fine, probably goina go pick one up now, wasnt sure on the price though thats where this question was comin from basically

Alright guys, so i tested my alternator at idle, it gives no charge, and runs purely off of the battery; yet with even the slightest throttle, it charges, not enough, but it does, it slwoly climbs higher and higher; revving it higher and higher, eventually once it hits about 3,500 RPM it hits max charge and wouldnt charge any higher, 15.14v.; even at higher RPMs. I figured it might be the Voltage Regulator, so i changed it out with an older one from another z; unsure about either being good i figured id try it, especially since i had to repair the wiring harness anywho; with the new one it still did not charge at idle; and did nearly the same thing when incresinge the revs; except at about 4,000 RPM it hits its max; 13.38v THe battery was completely charged, with a standing voltage at 12.89v So the question, as stated in the caption, is; which is bad? the voltage regulator(the original or the second) or the alternator itself; since it still seems to charge with raised RPM I am led to believe that the regulator is bad, both of them; am i wrong and the alternator still charges just has lost its charge? If from what i hear, the vreg is adjustable; does this seem to be the problem? is the vreg out of adjsutment? if so; how do i adjust it? Thanx guys, i know i already asked this question, but this is with new info, so i figured with this newly added info you might be able to help me. Thanx again guys

Alright guys, so i tested my alternator at idle, it gives no charge, and runs purely off of the battery; yet with even the slightest throttle, it charges, not enough, but it does, it slwoly climbs higher and higher; revving it higher and higher, eventually once it hits about 3,500 RPM it hits max charge and wouldnt charge any higher, 15.14v.; even at higher RPMs. I figured it might be the Voltage Regulator, so i changed it out with an older one from another z; unsure about either being good i figured id try it, especially since i had to repair the wiring harness anywho; with the new one it still did not charge at idle; and did nearly the same thing when incresinge the revs; except at about 4,000 RPM it hits its max; 13.38v THe battery was completely charged, with a standing voltage at 12.89v So the question, as stated in the caption, is; which is bad? the voltage regulator(the original or the second) or the alternator itself; since it still seems to charge with raised RPM I am led to believe that the regulator is bad, both of them; am i wrong and the alternator still charges just has lost its charge? If from what i hear, the vreg is adjustable; does this seem to be the problem? is the vreg out of adjsutment? if so; how do i adjust it? Thanx guys, i know i already asked this question, but this is with new info, so i figured with this newly added info you might be able to help me. Thanx again guys

Alright guys, so i tested my alternator at idle, it gives no charge, and runs purely off of the battery; yet with even the slightest throttle, it charges, not enough, but it does, it slwoly climbs higher and higher; revving it higher and higher, eventually once it hits about 3,500 RPM it hits max charge and wouldnt charge any higher, 15.14v.; even at higher RPMs. I figured it might be the Voltage Regulator, so i changed it out with an older one from another z; unsure about either being good i figured id try it, especially since i had to repair the wiring harness anywho; with the new one it still did not charge at idle; and did nearly the same thing when incresinge the revs; except at about 4,000 RPM it hits its max; 13.38v THe battery was completely charged, with a standing voltage at 12.89v So the question, as stated in the caption, is; which is bad? the voltage regulator(the original or the second) or the alternator itself; since it still seems to charge with raised RPM I am led to believe that the regulator is bad, both of them; am i wrong and the alternator still charges just has lost its charge? If from what i hear, the vreg is adjustable; does this seem to be the problem? is the vreg out of adjsutment? if so; how do i adjust it? Thanx guys, i know i already asked this question, but this is with new info, so i figured with this newly added info you might be able to help me. Thanx again guys

also where car i find these rx-z mirrors, with a picture so i can look at them?

thanx guys, thats what i was lookin for i was pretty sure about that part of it all, anywho i like emm and i think im goina put them on the car, as long as i can adjsut them, i like the idea of seeing down the side of my car with the flick of an eye, plus they seem to look alot better

good point, but i would rather save the 40 if it was somethin else that is actually wrong with the car, you know

but...were they offered on a 72 model year z?

Alright so i know i want to get new mirrors when i get my car painted, but i kinda like the fender mirrors as opposed to the door mirrors. although i have a 72 240z, were these mirrors offered on this model year or was it just the earlier model zs that these were offered? jsut a though, where can i get these mirrors? if i were to get these mirrors i was lookin at the chrome style bullet mirrors...any other options?

alrighty, i wasnt plannin on going with a rebuild considering how many other rebuilt products i have gone through on other vehicles

really, the only thing is its an externally regulated alternator, are there still diode within?