Geno750
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Posts posted by Geno750
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3.545 is the same as the M6 350Z, so it should be perfect.
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2 hours ago, seattlejester said:
Those wheels look real nice!
Per our conversation, and since this thread is becoming quite useful.
Do you have any additional photos of the CD009 transmission fitment? I think my engine is a little bit further back then yours, but it would be nice to know if you have to bash out the trans tunnel or anything to fit it. My R154 is kind of floating with pretty minimal room to spare, wondering how the seemingly bigger CD009 fairs.
If you're coming from an R154 what rear end ratio are you using? The CD009 is an excellent match to the stock 3.5ish ratio the longnose R200 usually came with. If you're using or plan to use a short nose the 4.XX ratios line up better with the R154 and T56 type transmissions
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Matt is the owner of Love20bee, good dude and great wheels. I'm looking at buying a set from him when I get to that part of the build.
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Did you order those from Matt? He does amazing work. If you're after flares, rhd-japan is the easiest way to get the best flares available (marugen shokai).
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There's a series of spot welds on the floor and tunnel/door frame, just don't drill out the ones on the trans tunnel/door frame when you remove the floor. It makes it harder but it's doable.
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8 minutes ago, seattlejester said:
I'm not really sure the material, the hose ends are for sure aluminum. The adapters don't feel like steel pieces from what I've seen, so I would assume aluminum as well.
My guess is the material mismatch can cause fittings to get loose? Perhaps the different rate of expansion or something of that nature?
Yeah, that's exactly what happens.
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On 2/26/2018 at 12:28 AM, seattlejester said:
Goodness that is really sunken in. Looks far more correct now.
I think I killed my boost control solenoid either that or it is sticking really badly. When it works it controls boost as far as I can tell, but when it doesn't it overboosts till the boost cut which I am thankful I have.
My mishap with AN lines is in regards to them coming loose on my turbo oil feed on both ends, despite following the recommended tightening. If it was a boost reference line that comes loose to a boost solenoid, then boost solenoid doesn't supply good control to the waste gate, best case scenario you hit boost cut, worst case scenario you boost until something pops, if your lucky a coupler if you are unlucky a piston.
Regardless, I am stupid excited for you. Please don't neglect the basics! You seem way more methodical, and legitimate, but rushing and forgetting to hookup an oil pressure gauge or something like that is a really bad day.
Did you have a steel fitting in the turbo with an aluminum hose end?
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Take this with a grain of salt, since the engine was different. I had put a tremendous amount of miles through a FS5W71C with a 320hp SR20. Now when I switched from a GT28R to a GT3076R and put down 531hp I blew up three FS5W71C in 4 months.
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That's pretty awesome. I've been wanting to get a 3D printer for a while now. As soon as they can reliably make electrical connectors I'm buying one. I might try and design some kind of mounting bracket for said electrical connectors and send it your way if you're interested.
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Nice progress! Given how minor that interference is, you can tap the turbo manifold runner in that spot to get the 1-2mm of clearance, or grind the stud down.
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Yeah, and a strong love hate relationship with it. If this motor dies it's getting a 2JZ.
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I can confirm it's 1/8npt on a S366SXE.
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13 hours ago, seattlejester said:
Ah, yes, that is what I imagined. It is interesting they make provisions for an AN10 fitting, which would indicate the use of AN 10 line, but not sure how good they are against direct heat. I guess the lines do sit on the turbo which itself gets pretty darn hot.
5/8 stainless hardline from catch can to exhaust scavenging bung and no worries about melting stuff. But I think by the time heat traveled from the bung to the AN fitting it wouldn't be enough to melt the SS braided hose.
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3 hours ago, seattlejester said:
45 against the flow direction right? I've been curious how those work, I would imagine they would just melt whatever was connected to them pretty much.
With the flow, the kits will protrude into the exhaust stream, if you Google exhaust scavenge kit you'll see images that do a better job of explaining it. Vibrant performance makes such a kit, part number 1189. In theory given the lack of movement and distance from the valve cover you could connect the kit with stainless hardline if you were worried about melting stuff.
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You'll also want more of a filter on the end of the turbo inlet, that resistance offered by the filler is what generates vacuum for the catch can. Now if your plan is to run a 'filter' like you linked above, you can connect a 1-way check valve to the exhaust at a 45 degree angle and connect the catch can to that. Just don't run a catalytic converter if you do.
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Without any way of knowing how deep that scratch was it'll be hard to give you a solid direction. If it was barely worn, then knocking off the glaze on the cylinder walls and run a new set of moly rings is a good way to go. But if that scratch was more than .005" down, you'll likely be running a pretty loose piston to wall clearance.
When it comes to the bottom end though, that's the foundation of the motor, and like building a house, you don't want to cut corners and start with a crappy foundation.
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Probably floor mounts, the TR6060 has provisions for the trans mount pretty far back, pretty much right under the opening for the shifter.
Here's an older pic with the Ford bellhousing (it's shorter now by about 1.25"). You can see the mount provisions next to the shifter.
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So round two started this weekend. I wanted to see how much of the trans mount ears would need to be trimmed off the car. The simple answer is all of it. The TR6060 is a lot larger in that area. For anyone wondering about firewall clearance, there's tons of space.
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On 12/27/2017 at 1:57 PM, Zetsaz said:
If you call the shop that makes that cell (Z-Fever in Tampa) you can get info on other versions of that cell. He makes one that you can use without the spare tire well (more capacity).
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Well radiator stuff is done. Converted everything to -24AN after getting a free set of BMRS radiator hoses from a NASCAR team. -24 bungs are pretty cheap ($15ish each), -24 fittings, not so much.
Going to finish my engine mount modification and fuel system next.
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It'll likely be okay, but long term I've seen SS lines leak because the hose on the inside got brittle and cracked. DEI makes a slip over heat sleeve. I think they're about $25 for 3ft.
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On 12/11/2017 at 2:49 PM, seattlejester said:
You got 60mm more tire width than me on much better compounds. I'm afraid adding that much more traction is just asking for trouble from the axles or the stub axles. Basically using the smaller wheels as blow off valves for the torque and power.
Both Exposed and Geno are running 2.5L blocks though right? I guess with the smaller displacement and bigger hotside your turbo would come online much later.
Yeah, 2.5L here, but I have VVTI and a head that should still flow well enough for trips into 8500-9000rpm territory. Should produce a decent power band, and will be fun even off boost compared to the stock motor.
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I think VVTI control would require a MS3 box based on the feature list on their website.
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So there's secret option 350Z that exists. However you didn't list or I'm retarded and didn't read what engine management you're going with, that will help determine what direction to go in. If you're going aftermarket ffim then I'd say look at getting an aluminum throttle body spacer and weld it on. I'm using a 350Z 70mm TB and 350Z pedal. Spacer, TB and pedal cost me $90 total.
Tig Help
in Fabrication / Welding
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I shot that picture to a certified welder friend of mine and he said it looked good. How's the back side of the weld was his only question.