Geno750
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Posts posted by Geno750
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The biggest one for me is really situational. I'm going to be swapping in my abs r200 from my 180SX into my car via the t3 kit. I've designed a mount that will let me put a proximity hall effect sensor on the front hubs (picks up the two piece rotor bolts). With that I'll be able to record the speed of the powered and non powered wheels and will have traction control via the infinity 6.
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I've actually got an infinity 6 for my 1JZ. I've been building my own harness since its pretty easy. If you're buying a wiring harness you don't need the mini harness.
The infinity has some neat features I didn't find in the mega squirt. It's a solid unit to go with.
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I'd really be interested in knowing the thread size and pitch of the rear housing.
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I'm only interested in their axles and the backing plates. I have all of the other components from my other car. Including new wheel bearings and Z32 rear brake assembly's.
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You can do that, but you will need to get companion flanges to fit your outer stub axles, and the center bars to go between the CV joints. the 180SX axles will be too long to fit.
I'll go with T3 back plates, use a 240sx hub and t3 shortened axles. 29spline parts should last longer and from what I've seen, T3's solution is by far cheaper while offering what seems like a better option.
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Yeah. I'm lucky/unlucky and know the exact miles on my 180SX diff. I wadded up the 180SX the diff came from, car had just over 47k miles.
The VLSD will simply hold me over until I find a deal on a 1.5way.
If using the vlsd from my shortnose in the longnose will let me use the 180SX stub axles then great, I won't buy a shortnose mount (unless there's an advantage to be had here.), I'll just buy the t3 axles.
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After surgery to my foot I've had way too much free time on my hands to read/research but not turn a wrench, so forgive any ignorance on my part with a few of these questions.
First assumption - all 1976 280Z's have R200 longnose rear ends.
Second assumption - All VLSD R200's from a 180SX are 29 spline. But does this really matter in the long run? (see below).
I'm trying to do this correctly the first time. My big question is if I go with the T3 back plates to use later model hubs, can I simply swap to whatever R200 diff I want, use the correct input shafts for that diff in my 76's long nose and be good to go with the T3 axles?
I've tried to search for this answer but the information is somewhat convoluted at best. Worst case, this thread will document my trials and tribulations of attempting this swap my self.
Next question, and somewhat related. Is there a strength advantage (long or short nose, I have both) to how the diff is mounted to the car? My Z has a 1JZGTE and will exceed 450ft/lb of torque once the fuel system is upgraded to use E85. I'd prefer to install whichever diff will be held in more securely.
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I'm using 1200CC injectors, but I'm also going to be using E85. I shaved down the stock plastic standoffs to get the fuel rail and injectors to sit right and seal against the intake manifold. For other mods I'm using a fuel lab adjustable fpr. Probably going to use a nuke performance surge tank or I'll sump the stock tank.
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If you're planning on doing top feed EV14 style injectors(ID1000, FIC, DP, etc.), take a look at the drift motion rail. It's probably the best one available for the non vvti 1JZ in the US, and it's well priced. Fitment is great, but depending on injector length, you will have to sand down the stock standoffs to fit.
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I had a Nismo twin on my SR for years and it wasn't that bad. I've driven 6 and 4 puck clutch setups that were much worse.
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I've got the V1 maverick kit. I also had their SR20 kit, which is my my bell housing is machined. If you need big power handling capability, go with the spec twin disc designed for this swap.I should have said twin disk instead of dual clutch sorry. However, it looks like the highest rated kit (800+) from Collin's requires the twin disk setup with the 2jz's auto flexplate. I just took a look at Mavericks kit and it looks like it doesn't require machining any more and I can use a standard 350z clutch. I currently have Collin's adapter but I might try maverick's if I stick with the 350z tranny. Anybody here running maverick's kit?
Also the new version of the maverick kit no longer requires machining.
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I think you mean a dual mass flywheel. The conversion flywheels look thick enough to push the disk out far enough to engage the splines on the transmission.
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Also does the 350z transmission fit in the 280z tunnel? On my 260z I had to cut it in order to fit the trans in.
The guys putting VQ35/37's into the S30 don't have to do much to fit the motor in with the trans. Seems like you can "massage" the firewall/tunnel area with a bfh and be okay.
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Speedhut gauges are what I'm using. 4" Speedo and tach. 2 5/8 inch boost, oil p, and water. My Speedhut Speedo uses GPS, has indicator and high beam indicators and a built in fuel gauge. They are also incredibly customizable.
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It is I, 1 Tuff Z, and yes I do have JDM fender mirrors available!
I think your inbox is full. Could you pm me?
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Depending on how well you can fab, the easiest option would be buying the ic from McKinney motorsports. They make one specifically for our cars.
For your turbo vs hp goals, check the new S300sx-e line from bw. The smallest one is more than capable of hitting your power goals. Your injectors are either too big or too small. If you're trying to go E85, go with a 1200cc ev14 type of injector. If you're sticking with 93oct, 600cc injectors would work.
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So since you're using the igniter, follow option 4 from the directions. You'll use the ecu tach signal wire(should be pin 16), a 12v wire and the resistor they included with the gauge. Wire it up as shown in the picture.
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I've got a good one from my 76z. My only reason for removing it is I'm going with a speedhut gauge. $75 shipped to you.
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I've got a running L28 which I'm pulling from my 76 280z. Engine is located in Aurora, CO
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I have a running L28 I'm about to remove from my 76 280Z, located in Colorado.
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No one cares about the 350 so parts are cheap. Its a cheap car to begin with. Mavericks and collins are legit the same thing. Maves just gives you the option of getting your own 350z clutch which is a hassle because you will spend more than if you went with collins kit. I looked at both and theyre both the same. Now collins just updated his so you dont have to shave the bell housing. That right there is the reason I ordered his. He uses his "own" clutch and flywheel but its just from another car model that he does not want to tell people about which is understandable. Nothing a clutch shop cant fix for you anyway.
The s130 might be longer so you night not even have to cut it which would be awesome. I know between 350 and s30 it was like a 4-5in difference and when you cut it it lowers it to just 1ish inch which is still comfortable compared to stock.
This is situational, I wanted the option for a twin plate clutch, which from Collins requires using an auto flex plate and an adapter. The custom flywheels are likely just a dual mass flywheel drilled to accept the 1JZ bolt pattern crank and accept a 350z clutch and pressure plate.
SPEC actually makes a twin plate clutch specifically for someone running a CD00X gearbox on a JZ engine. I'll post up the model of the clutch when I get home.
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So there are now a few ways to do this now. Collins offers two different kits, one of which doesn't require machining the bellhousing. There is also a kit offered by maverick motorsports that requires machining 3/8 of an inch from the bellhousing. Both Collins and maverick offer conversion flywheels that let you run a 350z clutch.
Personally I'd go with the maverick setup and machine the housing. It's what I'm using on my 1JZ
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They can also do custom stuff they don't seem to list on the website. They added a analog speed output wire to my GPS speedo for me. Now I can have speed input to my ECU.
To re-iterate, they're very good about custom stuff. I wanted my 10K rpm tach to resemble the stock one regarding how the area around the redline looked. I think they did a great job.
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where does the cx racing mounts place the motor? how low and how far back? how low is to low?
I hope to have the answer to that question soon. I've been waiting on the 1JZ to 350z transmission adapter I ordered so I can place the engine in the car with the trans.
Stand alone controller and wiring harness question.
in Toyota L6 Forum
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Interesting ecu, but it's more than what I paid for the infinity6, which has very similar features.