mobythevan
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Posts posted by mobythevan
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Adding -12 3/4" drain to the LS1 timing cover with stock pulley.
Russell 3/4" 45 degree barb:
Cut off threads:
Drilled timing cover:
And Install:
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Thanks Tony. I now use a proper thread sealant on all tapered fittings.
Update pics. Some of this is mock up. I installed the 34327 radiator up front and remounted my PG cooler. I kept the taurus fan with this new radiator and the new location. I replaced the plastic heater hose tee with a metal one. Installed hood pins. I threw together a quick junk bracket so I could get started on the hotside fab. Everything is clearing good with the hood.Whats left before the car starts:Weld in drain fitting to timing coverHere is the last pic I took before the turbo install started, shows old radiator placementHere is new radiator placementAN -12 pushloc disassembled to be welded into the timing cover for oil drainDrivers side hot pipe allowing clearance for power steering connectionsSymmetry went out the door in favor of placement for everything, exhaust, WG, intake piping, room for stainless heat shieldSubtle exhaustDual DSM BOVsHood PinsWG -
I remember that setup that you linked. That is why I was curious why someone would do 36-1 if making their own custom setup instead of 6-1, but there may be reasons. Anyway, there are several options so maybe other people will chime in.
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Yep, using plastic and cutting corners.
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Can you get away with less teeth and save some machining time?
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OK, this happened on the way home last night:
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Oh yeah, that is dieselgeek. He has been working with megasquirt at least as long as I have been using it. I've seen him on the forums all the way back. I really need to meet up with some of these guys.
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That is not too far from me. Thanks for the heads up.
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I'm not trying to be condescending, but if you are on the wrong leads of the POT it will not change while making adjustments. You need to measure between the "wiper" and one of the other two leads (either one works)
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Here are two log plots, one showing the noise on my friends car with poor power distribution and grounding. The other is my rx7 log from this weekend. I gave him recommendations on how to fix his wiring and he is working on implementing the changes. The same signals are shown in both log captures here. Both of us doing a short WOT run. Note that the bumps on my coolant temp reading are about a half degree, must be the smallest step of the ADC on MS3. Also notice that my battery voltage does not move so you don't even see it on the plot. In turn, the dwell is never adjusted since the battery voltage is constant so it is also a flat line.
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It is OK to turn the trim pots too far, the just slip/click at the end of the range.
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FYI, I have moved on to MS3 running my LM7 engine (LS series). There are a couple general notes I can add here. I am using truck coils, round style with the heatsink. Apparently they will autofire if dwell is too high. Check on the msextra forums if you are running these. I am not seeing any problem with them, but I am using the suggested dwell values (4ms cranking and running). The default dwell battery correction table with MS3 is based on the stock GM dwell table for these coils.
Also, my final electrical gremlins came down to three things:
1. I did not have adequate power supplied to each sub system in the car. I added new wiring of the proper size for each system (coils, injectors, fuel pump, etc)
2. I was routing my high voltage grounds from the LS coils through the harness, which was radiating noise onto other sensor wires. Now I ground these at the cylinder head per the instructions in the MS manuals. The instructions may not have been there when I first did this install, or I did not read close enough. Take your pick
3. Making sure grounds are all well connected. Very basic stuff. To fix this I now ground my battery to the cylinder head at the same bolt using a copper bus bar that I have on my MS3/fuse/relay backboard. Then all grounds (except high voltage coil as mentioned above) go to the copper bar. It has 6 studs on it to easily connect everything: MS3 grounds, MS3x grounds, sensor grounds, cylinder head ground - heavy gauge wire, wideband grounds, etc...
Good Luck on your installs and don't hesitate to contact me with questions. This is what I love to do
Bryan
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I got back to work on the car in August and got it driving in the end of November this year without a turbo. The car is running very good on MS3. I re-did all of the power and gnds in the car and made my own relay center. Tucked all the wiring. I used a copper bus bar to allow everything to be grounded together and grounded to the engine block. The LS truck coils have their high power ground connected to the heads. No more electrical noise issues and MS3 is awesome. Car starts immediately and idles fantastic with 80lb siemen deka injectors on pump gas. BTW, the PC680 battery is still working great. I did add a disconnect switch so I can be sure I'm not drawing power while on the float charger. I did a host of other small things that are detailed in my build thread on norotors.com, connected trans brake, did a temporary v-band single exhaust that I can swap on to run non-turbo, etc, etc
All parts are ordered to get the S475 turbo and JGS 50mm wastegate installed over the Christmas break. This time I am using C6 L3 exhaust manifolds pointing forward. All stainless 304 v-bands, 2.5" piping, lined flex joints, and a single divided pipe to wastegate to maintain the divided housing.
Relay and Fuse center with MS3
PC680 battery, new fuel system, tucked wires
MS3 and Tuner Studio on JimStim
New Power Distribution Schematic
Main 80 amp fuse for entire car power
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Get tuner studio hooked up and check out all the basics. Read over the beginning tuning notes again and you will be right back in it.
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It works very well for boost applications. I have run some high advance and high cylinder pressures without detonation. There are other problems with it like gunk in the fuel system that has to be cleaned once in a while and oil contamination. And hard to start in the cold. I was using it in my daily driver so I needed it to start on zero degree days. It did, but I had to tune a lot on cold start settings.
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What is really nice about e85 is if you go with it all the time and raise your compression appropriately. I ran my talon at just about 13:1 compression and 14psi boost for a couple years on e85 and it was a blast to drive as a daily. Unless you are going to take advantage of the higher octane rating I wouldn't bother with e85.
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I never had many noise problems with my MS installs until my LSx RX7. I am in the process of completely rewiring this car because of the noise issues. One of the major contributors was having the harness run right next to the coils and injectors. I've had so many noise problems on the LSx that I decided to throw everything at it, all new wiring, grounding, better locations, better shielding, you name it. I was seeing a lot of noise coupled into the coil control wires and injector control wires. I also saw a lot coupled into the trigger wires. Installing caps was not good enough to filter this out. It should be noted that I was not using the factory routing for the LSx harness so I ended up with my harness real close to the coil and injectors. I know this is not specific to your problem, but misery loves company.
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FWIW, I also think that is a fair price.
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I don't know any details of your car. Is this a stock cam and do you use a stock style cold idle valve that closes as coolant heats up? Are you using high or low impedance injectors and if they are low do you have dropping resistors or do you use PWM? Just trying to see if anything seems obvious to me that would make your idle hunt. Large injectors that are hard to control will cause it. A large cam may cause it, but I haven't personally witnessed how large cams act with megasquirt.
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Are EGO corrections turned off?
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You do have to put a jumper wire for 12 volts to power the stepper motor controller. If you are not using a stepper motor for idle control then you don't have to do that.
Everyone should be using tuner studio at this point even though it is different and causes a learning curve. It is a much better tuning program. Megatune is no longer supported or updated.
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The picture you attached from the mega manual is for a fuel only installation. That may be causing the confusion. If you intend to have MS2 extra fire the coil then follow the instructions from DIYautotune and you should be good to go.
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I see, those settings come from metro. In my original write-up I have a trigger angle of 78 on my car.
I believe once you get your trigger angle over 90 degrees the software needs to know to skip a cylinder, like next cylinder mode or something. I really don't know what it means either. But you should be able to get your car set up in the 70-80 trigger angle range and don't use the addition. Good Luck.
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I'm not sure why you have the trigger angle set to 38 and +45. Try setting it to 83 and no addition. I'm not sure that changes anything in megasquirt, but the NOTE right below those settings says to only use addition if you are above 90(thats the way I read it). Personally, I would just set the trigger angle to 70 with no addition and then put the timing light on and manually turn the dizzy until the timing was correct. 83 should work though.
I know in the install sticky his settings are like 80* +45what install sticky has this?
86 RX7 with Turbo LM7 and Megasquirt
in Other vehicles
Posted
MS3 is working very good for me. I have not had a chance to get the idle air controller working yet. I would like to experiment with a boost controller at some point and set up at least the tableswitch input for E85 and pump gas via a toggle switch. I don't know if I want to mess with the actual ethanol sensor for flex fuel vehicles. I think two options would be good for me for fuel. Hey, you are not too far away from me. We need to meet up some time. I'll let you know if I'm headed your way this summer.