Jump to content
HybridZ

mobythevan

Super Moderators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2250

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Posts posted by mobythevan

    Another dumb MS question from NUB.

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    Depending on your install you may have three options with low impedance injectors:

     

    Use a large wattage low ohm resistor like 6ohm 25 watt in series with each injector to limit current

     

    Use PWM (pulse width modulation) feature in megasquirt to limit current

     

    Or purchase a peak and hold driver board/box that goes between megasquirt and the injectors to drive them correctly. This is what Matt was referring to that hits them with a large current and then backs off.

    MS Wiring Diagram Review / Approval

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    The schematic is a little hard to read, but it looks like you have things correct as far as I can tell. I don't know EDIS wiring so I didn't look at that part.

     

     

    Hello readers,

     

    I've put my turbo engine in the car over the past weekend (pic attached) and I'm getting ready to wire the car, but before I start, I want to make sure my wiring diagram that I will be following is correct. I have been doing what seems like endless reading and research but the best way to make sure what I have is correct is review by the experts. If any of you can spare some time to review what I have, that would be absolutely amazing. I hate to be a nuisance.

     

    Attached is a wiring diagram made in EXCEL. The diagram shows the wiring between the relay board and the car. The 4-hole socket for injector power, and the other 3-holes for relay board/MS power were rotated 90 degrees clockwise for simplicity. I tried to be detailed regarding where the wires go.

     

    Things to note about the car:

    1973 240z

    MS2 V3.57 board

    Relay board

    l28et

    stock 280cc injectors (I'll be using PWM controls for these instead of the resistor pack. As such, I will use the injector settings posted by Z-ya here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/55910-injector-opening-times-spread-sheet/)

    stock t3 turbo

    EDIS (using the edis-6 diagram posted on the MS website here: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm)

    coil pack from a 2000 Dodge caravan 3.3L (mine has the plug type with the 4 spades in a row, so im using the info posted here by cygnusx1 as a reference: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=930882&postcount=18)

    -- note on edis to ign coil pack wiring: since the L-series firing order is 153624, i wanted the edis module to fire the coils from one side to the other in order to clean up the spark plug wires. Since EDIS fires the coils attached to pins 10,11,12 on the edis module in the firing order 10->12->11->10.. etc, I needed pin 10 to connect to the coil pack for the cylinders that fire first and fourth in the Z firing order which is 1-6, then pin 12 needed to go to the next adjacent coil pack to fire cylinders 2-5, and lastly edis pin 11 to the remaining coil pack, and hence to the last 2 clyinders (3-4). Please let me know if this logic is fouled.

    Innovate LC-1 (using the info in the quick start guide found here: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/quickstart/LC-1_Quickstart.pdf and also from DIYautotune found here: http://www.diyautotune.com/faq/faq.htm#LC1wiring)

    2 elec. radiator fans also wired into the fuel pump relay.

    CLT sensor will use the CHTS (I'll have to calibrate it in MS using the values found here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/57800-280z-coolant-temp-sensor-values-for-easytherm/)

     

     

     

     

    Please post any comments, concerns, errors, constructive/destructive criticisms, etc.

     

    Thank you all very much for your time.

     

    James

    MS3 -- Update

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    Here is my first video of shadow logger. Stick with it until the end and I get a closeup of how the display looks, the text is small. The first part of the video you can't read what is on the screen and you see that this is not laid out for the 10 inch tablet or readability yet. But I am sure Phil is working on changes. I am not known for being loud as you will learn from the video.

     

    MS3 -- Update

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    I have the Acer Iconia A500 tablet, which runs android OS. And yes, the shadow logger only logs raw data to a file. It does not display gauges or graphs right now. EDIT: it does show some realtime info, but not in a gauge format. I will shoot a video so you can see what it looks like.

    MS3 -- Update

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    I had some time over the break to work with the MS3 some more. I finished building it to work on the LS1 engine. I put together the JimStim v1.5 and JimStimx expander board so I could do some testing. I also got the bluetooth module from Phil Tobin (EFIanalytics) and was able to get the shadow logger working with my acer iconia tablet. I did run into some issues.

     

    JimStim v1.5 notes:

    Even though this stim board says it supports LS1 signals for cam and crank, it really doesn't. I found in the msextra forums that when the JimStim firmware was set up the crank signal was made as an evenly spaced 24 tooth signal. The LS1's real crank signal is an uneven waveform and the newer firmwares for both MS2_Extra and MS3 expect the real uneven pattern. Needless to say, I could not get an rpm or sync with the JimStim providing the LS1 signals for cam and crank. I ended up using a basic stamp project board I had laying around to produce my own cam and crank signals and modeled the real uneven pattern of the LS1. This worked and I was able to get sync and test my MS3.

     

    Shadow Logger notes:

    It took me a while to figure out that I had to go into settings and pair the bluetooth module with my tablet before running shadowlogger. Once I did this I was able to take datalogs. I also made an account on EFIanalytics website because when you log with shadow logger it creates a raw file that then gets uploaded to the server and turned into a file that will work with log viewer.

     

    I think I am ready to install in the car now. I will need to redo my wiring harness. MS3 uses two DB37 connectors. One has the original signals like MS1/MS2. The other has the 8 seq fuel and 8 seq spark, tach output and the CAM trigger input.

     

    If anyone is interested I could make a couple videos showing the MS3 stim setup working and the shadow logger stuff.

    LS1 MegaSquirt Install

    in Megasquirt

    Posted

    I think mine are still powered by 5 volts for MS1 v2.2 or v3.0 boards. Where did you see something about me using 12volts? I will use 12 volts to power them with MS3, but not MS1/MS2. Here is the line from the install guide:

     

    Both crank and cam sensors are powered with 5 volts. It has already been confirmed by other people that both sensors return a 5 volt square wave logic signal. I did find new info that in the factory setup both sensors are powered by 12 volts, but 5 volts works without the need for other circuitry to interface with the processor.

    Innovate LC-1 Giving Me Headaches

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    People claim it is the low voltage and possible spikes from the starter motor. Not sure myself, but I can say that I have witnessed 3 units on different installs that had problems. I don't have enough time on the "fix" to know if the problems are solved for good.

    Innovate LC-1 Giving Me Headaches

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    Wanted to follow up on this post since I have also had some new problems with LC-1s lately. Ran across this thread on the forum and I believe this is the issue:

     

    LC-1 does NOT like the electrical conditions that exist in a car during cranking. It is likely to "forget" its analog output programming, its free air calibration, will likely go into an error mode and could even be damaged (the sensor too!!). I've had several fail on me like that.

     

    I now power LC-1 via a relay that gets energized from the D+ output on the alternator. This means that LC-1 is only powered up once cranking has stopped and the engine has started and the alternator starts charging. I now find them to be quite reliable whereas before 1 in 2 would fail on me.

     

    To help solve this the LM-1 manual on the bottom of page 9 has instructions to install a relay that cuts power to the unit while the engine is being cranked.

     

    I spoke too early when I said out LC-1s were working OK, they are really having a lot of issues with losing settings and calibration during startup of the car.

    Protecting MS on first plug in

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    One thing you can do is disconnect the coil or external ignitor if you have one. A lot of times people end up with the wrong settings that have the coil powered constantly while they are trying to make sure basics are working like tps, sensors, fuel pump. Then the ignitor burns up. I don't think this is an issue with newer boards that use the current limiting FETs, but it is easy to do.

    High and Low voltage spikes

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    From my experience, installing filter capacitors usually works best to get rid of spikes like you show in the scope plot. If you look at the frequency that spikes occur you can then use online calculators to size the capacitors correctly.

    86 RX7 with Turbo LM7 and Megasquirt

    in Other vehicles

    Posted

    I worked on the car a bit over the weekend and I think I came up with a plan for this winter.

     

    Right now the car only needs a muffler installed to be driven with MS1 running the engine and no turbo. I had already put a downpipe on the car so I could keep it running without the turbo, but no muffler. Sitting on the bench I have the S475 turbo, JGS wasteagate, new BOV, second fuel pump with dual fittings and MS3 computer, but none of these are installed.

     

    So I think my plan will set up in three stages:

     

    1. Put a muffler on it and drive it a couple days to work to see how everything works on the open road. The car has never been driven more than a couple miles at a time.

     

    2. Then, put MS3 on the car and drive it some more to get tune working and colds start, IAC, etc.

     

    3. Take the car down to install the new turbo and wastegate. At this time I need to re-build my hot piping with stainless and good flex joints that won't come apart. I also need to change my BOV and add the dual fuel pump setup. One other thing is that I need to put adjustable rear links on my 8.8 setup. I have no idea at this time what to do for exhaust with the turbo, that is one unknown. My current downpipe is 4".

     

    Over the weekend I worked on two leaks. One was leaking from the bypass plate above the oil filter where I had tapped for turbo oil feed. The other leak is the speedo bullet on the powerglide. Looks like I have the old style bullet with only an o-ring seal and nothing on the speedo gear. So I ordered a new style with a seal on the gear as well.

     

    Just another data point, this whole time I have kept my PC680 battery on a float charger and it still seems to work great.

    Had spark, and now I don't

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    Take the coil wire itself and put a spark plug in the end and ground it to the engine block. Check for it to spark. Once in a great while the dizzy will be so far out of timing that it is too far from any post so the sopark will not jump the gap when the coil fires and it seems like there is no spark. Eliminating the cap and rotor from the equation by using a spark plug directly from the coil you can make sure you rule out this as a possibility.

×
×
  • Create New...