awd92gsx
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Posts posted by awd92gsx
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I've often thought about that Michael,
I've little to no V8 experience and wonder if I would know if my setup is working properly or not.
Maybe I should have it dyno'd just so my butt-o-meter doesn't tell me otherwise.
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Understandable.
However, Walmart has digital cameras for less than $20 now, not the best, but, adequate for most general stuff.
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Turbo,
Do you have a manual shift valvebody?
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No, just plain ole straight plugs.
Most block huggers work fine (some require slight modification - IE...a BFH). So, if you can find a set that work with angled plugs you should be OK.
There is a company that makes a set of full length headers (S&S Engineering) but it appears as though alot of people have problems with them rubbing the ground because they go so far down.
My car is lowered quite a bit, so, those headers weren't an option for me. Plus, I'm on an extremely tight budget. (IE...I'm poor!!). Amongst folks who have 10's of thousands of dollars invested into their engine swap, I only have around $1800 total into the swap.
So, I'm ok with $60 Ebay headers as long as they work.
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If this is your first engine swap and you have little to no fab skills, I'd recommend going with a '70-78 Z instead as there is little to no information available to you regarding your swap.
Not that it hasn't been done before, it just hasn't been documented as well as the 1st Gen swaps.
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This is one area where AZ seems to be a little better.
From what I understand of AZ emissions laws, the vehicle has to include emissions equipment that were part of the vehicle, not the engine.
IE...if your Z originally came equipped with an EGR and a charcoal canister that's all the new engine has to have also. However, if your vehicle came equipped with a 6 cylinder and you install an 8 cylinder, you still have to pass 6 cylinder emissions.
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Just installed the Speedo cable tonight. If my hands were much bigger I'd have to remove the dash!! Tight fit!!!
Was able to get it, though. It was actually easier to install than it was to remove.
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Isn't Motorsports Engineering the company that builds the V8 kit for MSA?
I'm running some 1-5/8 blockhuggers I got off of Ebay for like $60. They have 3/8" flanges and actually seem to fit very nicely. I originally beat them in slightly to clear the steering shaft, but, once I figured out what the real problem is they clear the shaft fine and no beating should be necessary.
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1 inch farther back?
Man...I think that'd put the distributor right smack dab in the firewall on an HEI setup.
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Tony,
I would *think* so. Doesn't the TV cable also control line pressure? Besides, if putting it in "D" puts it back into Automatic mode I'd also think it would need the TV cable for at least that mode.
I'm still looking into the 200r4...which I know alot of people don't like, but the GN crows seems to be having good luck with it. It seems like it has better ratios all the way across the board (including OD)
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I think he's talking about the spacers that go inbetween the front crossmember (where your engine bolts up to) and the "frame".
There are two half inch thick steel spacers that lower the crossmember some, dropping your engine a little into the chassis.
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You guys are lucky.
Here in Arizona it's anything 1967 and newer, plus we have centralized testing.
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280z,
Unfortunately you can't hook up a simple switch to the fuel pump. If you turn the switch on without the engine running it will keep pumping fuel into the carb, causing it to flood inside of your cylinders.
Drive,
Yeah, I've thought about the grade of the diode, too. What would be easiest is to find a relay that allows for to seperate controls to activate it. That way the two circuits are completely independant of each other. I haven't had much luck finding one, though.
Another thought I had would be to wire to seperate relays. One from the ignition and one from the starter solenoid wire. That way there's no possible chance of the circuit backfeeding.
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If you're going to do a Hybrid conversion, my personal suggestion is try and find a 280Z and leave the 240Z's for the collectors (just my opinion). 280Z's are stronger anyway and have the stronger rear end (which is desireable for the swap)
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Well, if I understand the JTR manual correctly (and without having an actual FSM in front of me) it looks like the BW (black and white) wire supplies the Dizzy with 12v switched (meaning it turns on/off with the key). I assume the BW wire went to the + side of the coil before...
Doing it the way I did in the schematic means the fuel pump will operate only when there is oil pressure or you are cranking the car over.
In the JTR manual it tells you to not connect the fuel pump system to the solenoid or it will cause the starter to operate when fuel pressure builds up. A simple diode placed in between the Starter Solenoid wire and the Relay keeps that from happening.
In all, besides the new fuel pump wire, there is only about 6 to 9 inches of wire needed for the entire setup.
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I think that's going to depend on whether you like automatics or manuals.
Either one should give you more than enough torque transfer.
From what I've always seen/heard Automatics tend to do better in the 1/4 mile while manuals tend to do better on road courses.
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OK....I don't like JTR's fuel pump wiring idea. It's a little antiquated (imho) and is very sparsely written (being borderline useless).
So...I've come up with my own little schematic and idea about how I'm going to wire my fuel pump.
I'm doing it this way for two reasons.
1) For simplicity reasons - other than one new wire running to the back of the car it should be easier to install.
2) Less parasitic/voltage drop across all circuits involved. If I understand JTR's system correct they are wanting you to power the fuel pump off of the black/white wire that goes to the HEI distributor. I don't like the idea of doing that. Also, running a thicker guage wire to the fuel pump will allow for less voltage drop across the wire which means more voltage makes it's way to the pump.
I'm probably trying to reengineer the wheel here...but, I thought I'd throw the idea out to you guys and get your opinions.
edit: the oil pressure switch is represented right after the 12v-switched (ign on) (black/white wire)
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Hooligan,
Most people buy their mount kit from JTR (http://www.jagsthatrun.com) while a few buy them from MSA and a few custom fab them.
The JTR is usually the easiest route and there is a book that you can get from JTR that covers the swap in it's entirety (for the most part - it's geared more towards the 240Z, but, it's better than nothing)
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I bought mine for $2500. It already had a coilover suspension, custom wheels, and some slight engine mods. It wasn't red, though, it was the copper color, but, was in good shape.
Absolutely no rust at all (Arizona car)
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LOL...
Go for it Ghostiee!!!
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Remember that with a 440 you're pretty much going to be on your complete own since there is no kit, no instructions, no support, no anything available for it for the V8Z swap.
Plus it would be much more expensive (I believe) to swap that in if you can even get it to fit.
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Yep...saw it!!
Bad ***!! Nice video!!
I wonder what the driver of the Mustang thought...
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If the difference between you going V8 or not going V8 is a 305...I'd say drop the 305 in and have fun with it.
It's better than no V8 at all right?
more header questions
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Stupid question time:
What are fenderwell headers?