rsicard
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Posts posted by rsicard
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Grumpyvette: Do you have any articles on balancing V8 engines when all component weights are known and crank maximum bobweight is also known? Please advise. Thanks.
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bjhines: VERY VERY Nice Job. I am planning nearly the same route on the exhaust. Ceramic coated Sanderson headers and use that wrap down the headers and header pipe to keep the heat inside (not outside) the exhaust system. Just wondering, with the cross-over and Flo-Pro mufflers, HOW DOES IT SOUND??? Is there any bark or just a smooth flow of nice pulses of sound due to the cross-over and mufflers??? PLEASE ADVISE. Thanks.
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Not certain about the body design, but a diesel hybrid SHOULD be the (near) future. It should use 4th or 5th generation Lithium Ion Batteries and BioDiesel fuel. Additionally, it should have a 220Volt AC plug in for recharging of the batteries which can be used solely for in-town use. The Diesel portion can be used for highway driving. Any comments?
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rwwisnesky: Where does one find the paint that you used for under the hood? I really like same as it makes everything VERY NEAT. Also, who's engine mounts are those that you used? Please advise. Thanks.
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Myron: I really like what you have done. It's great! Noticed the opening on the left hand side behind the front wheel. Is this the Exhaust? If so this is very neat and gave me ideas. Thanks.
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ezzzzzzz: What is the projected cost for these stub axles and companion flanges? I need 4 and 5 bolt on 4.5" wheel stub pattern with companion flanges to accept 300ZX Turbo CV half shafts to center section. What will the availability of these be? Please advise. Thanks.
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Myron: Have you finished the fixture to build rear control arms. If so it would be nice to send a deposit and have you send the fixture so that I can make a set of rear control arms made of Chrome-Moly Tubing.
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I'm looking for a cylinder head for my 3.0l, long rod, street motor. I have an open chamber E88 head here, and can get a P79 head for relatively cheap. I have a ridiculously tight budget. I also have a good amount of time on my hands. Power goals are modest at 200HP.
Anyway, My dilemma is thus: to save on gas costs, and still make some half decent N/A power, I chose ~9:1 compression. My planned engine:
LD block, bored to 87mm, sleeved if needed. (I have sleeves and boring is cheap 'round here)
150mm 4G63 rods
L28 crank ground out to 84mm
Z22S pistons
Delta Cams .490/280' bumpstick
Thus, I have cast piston with a ~9cc dish. the dish kills the quench properties of the P series heads, and has a CR of 9.3:1 with an E88 head. I want to run 89 octane, because of availability, with the option to run 93. I don't want to be trapped on 93 octane.
Before someone comes up and starts a cylinder head war, Don't. I've searched all over these forums, and can't find a good answer. Usually, I just find where a poster started a thread, and folks fought over it.
Is it worth it to get custom flat-tops and run a P-series head from a performance vs price standpoint?
Is the open chamber head+dished piston combination drivable on 89 octane at a CR of just over 9:1?
Keep in mind I'm not going to be boosting this engine. I plan to run twin SU's until I can afford a good set of triples, probably Webers or OER's.
A clean discussion on the performance difference between the E-88 open chamber head (Apparently, no one wants this head for performance, but I don't see much difference from the N42 except valve size) And the P-79 closed-chamber head FROM A COMBUSTION CHAMBER STANDPOINT is what is desired. Porting is to be assumed, although nothing really nutty. I'd like to avoid welding on the head.
Hopefully, this thread doesn't end up being dumped in the tool shed due to a silly argument over the "Q word".
Xnke: From a combustion standpoint the closed-chamber is more desireable. If you are to use the 9cc dish pistons then do so but suggest that you have them thermal barrier coated on top. Use www. kb-silvolite.com to determine compression ratio. At 9.1:1 you should still be able to run 87 octane. With the pistons ceramic coated, the combustion chambers thermal barrier coated, valve faces thermal barrier coated and exhaust ports thermal barrier coated you may well get away with a higher compression ratio and still run 87 octane (cheapest) without detonation. I have done this very thing to a Chev 454 bored .030" and stroked 0.75" gone from 118 cc to 110cc aluminum heads and STILL run 87 octane just fine. The above suggestions are on the order of what David Vizard (an engine guru) suggests. He recommends FLAT TOP pistons for flame travel in the combustion chamber. Assemble the short block less piston rings and see how much above or below the deck the top of the pistons are. Zero deck to slightly above is optimum.
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Now for the small world award. Steve is a frequent visitor to the foundry. He's known the owner for quite a few years and I've met him a few times. He's really a great guy and has a firm handle on the home brew "build it on a dime" mentality.
The foundry uses induction melters. They use Olivine green sand. I've got a bunch more pics that I'm going to be uploading to a gallery in the next few days. I'll let you know when I've got it done.
I'm sure we can work Kevin Bacon in here if we try hard enough!
Derek
Derek: I just love small companies and "He's really a great guy and has a firm handle on the home brew "build it on a dime" mentality. " This is really too cool.
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The fittings are metric but so are the GM pump fittings, at least the pump that came with my LT1 had metric fittings.
I bought the fittings I used from Speedway Motors, here is a link to the catalog page for the fittings:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/965,471_1980-Up-Power-Steering-Adaptors.html
The Forrester rack accepts the 14x1.5 for the high pressure line and the 16x1.5 for the return line and the GM pump's high pressure output is 16x1.5.
I bought all 3 but found I couldn't use one of the 16x1.5 because the return hose was then aimed right at the bottom of the cross member. I solved this by cutting a short section (~9 inches ) from the original return hard line and wrapping it around under the rack so it came around to the front near the high pressure feed line. If you look at my PDF you'll see how I did it. There's very little pressure in this line so you can just clamp the return hose to it.
I also bought one of Speedway's hose kits. It includes enough hose to do the feed, return and reservoir connections. If you get one of these kits and are using the LT1 pump be sure to get the AN10 version. The inlet at the pump is AN10 size so the AN8 kit won't work. It's a bit spendy and you end up with a couple extra fittings but then I didn't have to find the parts individually and I'll probably end up using the extras for something else.
BTW: Speedway also sells fittings that should work with an older style pump, here is the link to that page.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3243,471_1965-1979-GM-Power-Steering-Adaptors.html
Be sure to check before buying these as I haven't worked with an older style pump to verify whether these will work.
Wheelman
Thanks very much to Wheelman for the advice on the hydraulic fittings.
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Ok, I've been procrastinating on this but I finally put together a document with some pictures of my Subaru power rack install.
I used a rack from a 1999 Forrester with the stock GM pump that came with my 1995 Caprice 9C1 LT1.
Here is a link to the PDF file with all the pictures.
http://www.vikingds.com/zcarguy/Power Steering install.pdf
If anyone has questions please ask them in this thread so we can continue to build the knowledge base for this swap.
Wheelman
This is a VERY GOOD thread and I have already obtain the Subaru PS rack. Have been following your instructions. The one remaining item is the hydraulic fittings. I believe these are metric and where and how did you find the adapters to go from metric to the GM PS pump? Any hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Wow, a lot of good ideas guys! Thanks! I'm gonna talk to my buddy and I guess we can figure out which project we want to start with.
And that's very generous of you 280Zone. Obviously we're not asking for money up front, but if a handful of you guys were all interested in the same thing it really makes it easier to pick which thing to make first.
That basic flat spoiler looks like an easy start, but I'll talk it over with my buddy. Keep the ideas coming!
Fellows it appears that the most desirable and least available is replacement dashes for the 240Z and 280Z. I have a 240Z and am converting it to a V8 and modern transmission. Even a refurbished stock dash only has room for 2 each 5" Speedo and Tach and 3 each 2&1/16th" or 2&3/8th" instruments. This comes UP ONE SMALLER INSTRUMENT SHORT! Usually one wants Oil Pressure, Cooling Water Temp, Volt or Amps and Fuel Quantity. That is (4) Four smaller instruments. A dash which could accomodate these and is in the style of the original dash but made of much stronger material would sell in sufficient quantities whereas some of the other items discussed are available from multiple sources. Additionally the a center counsole with a standard width opening would allow a stack of radios, other accessories or blanking plate allowing room for more custom stuff. Lastly the horizontal center counsole is another rare piece to find or pricey to purchase and not of carbon fibre makeup.
These are some of the ideas that I have to offer.
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...and then the work as it progressed.
Arne: Thanks much for the photos. I purchased a 1971 Datsun 240Z and the only real big thing it has wrong with it is the aftermarket sun roof. It leaks when driven in the rain here in the Desert in Arizona. From your photos now I know how to go about reskinning the roof of my 240Z. Thanks again.
Rolland Sicard
Tucson, Arizona
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Trying to idenify this R200 LSD carrier... anyone know for sure by the looks?
click
Sure looks like a R200. I just got done going through one. This one IS NOT a LSD as the flange to which the ring gear bolts IS NOT 2 pieces as the LSD is. It also appears to have the 12millimeter bolts in the ring gear and on the bearing caps.
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I have a lower end built for a 383. The block is from a 97 Suburban. I want to use Patriot aluminum heads. I want roller rockers as well, and the block is already designed for roller lifters. My question comes from looking through Summit and JEGS. Most everything listed will say "up to 87" or "87-95" for the heads and other things. Should I use parts for 87-95?
Are there any differences from this particular 97 block and all the listings for aftermarket parts
I own a regular repair shop, so doing any of this is not a problem. My experience is just fixing everyday cars with stock parts. Not making something from scratch and making sure its done right the first time. I'm sure everyone agrees, its no fun going through this much time and expense, and having to repeat it all over again.
There is alot of good stuff here, and I have already done a bunch of searching. But I have not seen something like this discussed.
The '87-'95 blocks are nearly the same as '96-'99 blocks. The latter has roller lifters, one-piece rear main seal, and used the Vortec fast burn cylinder heads. Please take a look at the Dart Pro1 Platinum Aluminum Cylinder heads. These have the latest wet flow testing of the port design. With the proper camshaft, cylinder heads, intake and carb is capable of getting 500+HP and 500+FtLbs of Torque. Also please consider ceramic coating the tops of the pistons and slippery coating the skirts. Also the exhaust port, cylinder side of intake and exhaust valves ceramic coated to prevent heat penetration into the piston and valves and migration of heat from the exhaust to intake port. Just some ideas.
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rwwisnesky: What is the GOOD looking Coating that you used in the engine compartment? It really looks good and I would like to use something very similar on my silver 240Z. Please advise. Thanks.
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Check the fuel pump circuit and oil pressure switch
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What size tires are the V710's? What are the specs on the wheels?
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John C. I absolutely loved the Hans Stuck ring video. Thanks much for sharing it.
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I have been following this string of messages and am VERY INTERESTED as I do not want to replace my S30 280Z 27 spline stub axles after apply too much torque from my V8 conversion with a 300ZXT CLSD center section and turbo half shafts. Hope to see more from this thread.
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I'm in the process of changing my 5th Optima battery. IMO they are a lifetime guaranteed piece of junk. I have tried everything to keep them alive for any real length of time and they all usually fail in about 1-2 yrs. I should have known after the first one went bad and the authorized dealer wouldn't take it back. So now I'm in the market for the next best thing as far as a battery gos. Surely someone has come up with something better in 10yrs;
Maybe a battery that has the same design as a optima but actually holds a charge and doesn't dead cell all the time.
This one looks cool
http://www.bsrproducts.com/product_info.php?cPath=3&products_id=2551
Odyssey and Sear Die Hard Platinum batteries are both made by Enersys. They are also making Aircraft Batteries with the same technology to replace Nickel Cadnium batteries.
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I was debating switching to a Holley or Wilson single plan intake manifold but I didn't want to lose any of my torque down low, on the other hand in a car as light as a Z it probably wouldn't be much of a problem either way.
Also the carb that I was thinking about upgrading to was the proform PRO-67200 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO%2D67200&N=700+400405+306076+115&autoview=sku
Is their a general rule of thumb regarding fuel gph that I should be running. The fuel pump I upgraded to is the Areomotive AEI-11203 I am not set on running it if their are any objections to it.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AEI%2D11203&N=700+115&autoview=sku
And to answer Grumpyvette's questions
(1) I am planning on running a 5 speed specifically a tko500 (http://www.ddperformance.com/Tremec%20trans.htm)
As for the rear end I am almost finished with the q45 swap for now which has 3.56 gears(correct me if I am wrong) and for tires I will be running some Mickey Thompson ET streets.(top)
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip.php?item=ETStreetRadial
In the not so distant future I will be installing a for 9 inch with a 4 link and a full cage with sub frame connectors to stiffen up the body. After that I will be able to play around with rear gears more.
(2) If they aren't too restrictive I may run some 1 5/8 long tubes due to fitment issues until I decide to make new engine mounts so I can fit 1 3/4 long tubes.
(3) I was planning on running a 3 to 3 1/2 inch Y exhaust but if that wont be as efficient I will try and figure out how to change my current set up to allow for an X.
(4) Answered in number 1
(5) again answered earlier Proform 750?
(6) I had the Clevite 77 high performance H series performance rod and main bearing set installed about 6 months ago by in my opinion the best machine shop in the area. It was long enough ago that I don't remember exactly what they did when assembling the short block. I do however trust them and from past experiences and things I have heard and am not worried about their quality of work.
Thank you for all of the help.
mike
Mike:
Check recent issues of Popular HotRodding. David Vizard has his student build up a 383 with Dart Platinum Pro 1 Cylinder Heads. Look specifically at the camshaft specs and pictures of the ports on the Cylinder Heads. Mondello constructed the flow bench for Dart and they also used new techniques as good or better than CFD used by Detroit to design port flow. The 383 yielded 500HP and 500 ft Lbs of Torque on the Dyno. All the remainder of your choices are very good.
RJS
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I came across the Datsunlovers Door Latch recommendations. They are RIGHT ON THE MARK. I actually took off too much material on NEW latches in the area in RED. Then took off too much material off the top of the latch between the BLUE and RED areas. Carefully studied and welded back the material removed and in fact elongated the area between the two colored areas. Then very carefully formed the area in RED. Now the door latches much like it is supposed to. Just finished up today completely dissassembling the door, welding a cracking mounting area, and insulating the outer skin. Then lubed the front glass guide and reassembled the glass. Also installed NEW rubber/felt strips in the window channel removed from the door. Now the door shuts properly and the window tracks and moves rather easily up and down.
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Ok, so if you know what the door piece looks like (rotating cylinder with two bumps on it) you can figure out the first one hits the area marked in blue. This causes the cylinder to rotate, 'rolling' the second bump into the small radius, and latching the door closed.
The yellow line points to the spot where mine was hitting, and causing that 'clunk' sound. This point was actually smashed really bad from years of abuse, and took a small amount of grinding to fix the peand/mushroomed metal.
I then realized the root of the problem; The area marked in blue had been worn over the years and was not in the correct position anymore to allow full rotation of the door cylinder. (well, I guess the door piece could be slightly worn too.. seames to be stronger metal though..) So I used the dremel tool with a small grinding stone to grind back the area in red.. about 1/16" in the end. I just took a bit off at a time, blended it in to the original rad, and closed the door till I didn't hear/feel it hitting.
I assume that the 3 or more body jobs this car had over the years didn't help, and a lot of folks probly tried to adjust the latch mechanism but did a poor job, or gave up and just slammed them. At one point I peared into the door while trying to close it and saw that even though it was hitting, you could still get the door to close.. it just took a lot of force, and would actually move the whole door UP as it scraped in to place, before finally latching. I feel like a fool for not realizing this sooner, but oh well.. live and learn. Hope this helps.
This writeup is right on the mark. I have a 240Z with NEW striker plates and had to slam the drivers door many times to get it to fully latch. Used this article to trim the area in Red which is absolutely right. Took striker completely off and hand mated it to the door cylinder. Found that absolutely the area in Red needs to be cut back to clear the second button on the door cylinder. Also discovered that the first tab on the striker plate is TOO TALL and must be trimmed down. NOW after trimming the area in Red and the first tab, check final fit to door cylinder with striker plate against the two button door cylinder. When it bottoms properly and fit is proper then reassemble to door jam and carefully adjust. Then the door should shut much more positively. Did all of this and drivers door shuts much much better. Will do some fine tuning today. Then will rework the passengers door striker plate.
Pos. camber and toe in after bushing replacement
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
DandyZ: Ran into the same situation after installing shortened rear struts. Am using MSA adjustable rear inboard aluminum ADJUSTABLE bushings. Need to readjust them again. These adjustable bushings (you need to purchase the wrenches also) are manufactured as adjustable eccentrics. It appears that the front bushings need to be adjusted all the way outward and the rears almost all the way inboard in order to reduce positive camber and put toe-in to its smallest value. Requires purchasing the adjustable bushings and 2 each wrenches for same.