rsicard
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Posts posted by rsicard
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Careless: Already designed a fan circuit for him.
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Stan: You had a real life experience with fire. These will OPEN your eyes wide open to the possiblities. I have been an aircraft owner 3 times over. I actually worked at AiResearch at the LAX airport under contract. It was my first job as a designer/engineer. What an experience. The fellow I was replacing left the MOST difficult job for me on one project aircraft. I solved it and came out smelling like a rose. My boss at AiResearch was one GREAT fellow and had a drawing system that was second to none. I learned it well and everything since then about wiring diagrams will never compare to it. Then I went to Learjet and what a let down.
Getting back to wiring, TXL and GXL are similar in makeup to Mil 22759 which is what we used in aircraft. TXL has a thinner insulating jacket than GXL. I worked in the Santa Barbara area for a fellow with very strict wiring rules. He rightly maintained that what ever power wire we were going to put in the aircraft MUST pop its circuit breaker when grounded at the very end same. This is BY FAR the best wiring rule that I learned. FAA Advisory Circular (AC) FAR 43.13 has a wire length versus gauge, current, and heat rise in the wire that is very good. I still maintain all these FAA ACs on my computer.
The Datsun wires in my 240Z have much fewer strands than american made wire.
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No offense taken....But ... I am the ignorant one who knows nothing. The guy w/ 38 yrs Aviation experience is Rolland who has been helping me. Two separate people.
Stan: I am surprised at what 240Hoke said about EZ wire. "use different amounts of copper strands". This is NOT GOOD. Not to worry Stan, the hand drawn schematic/wiring diagram done for the cooling fan has a separate 1 amp fuse for the relay coils. This fuse should be as close to the relays as possible. I worked at Learjet and we had a model 35 aircraft that for some reason burned a wire, which should NEVER happen in an aircraft, and all it needed was a fuse or circuit breaker in the relay/solenoid wiring. But this would be a hidden fault if it blew, which again should NEVER have in an aircraft. The head of engineering poo-poo'd same. But I never did and also found multiple bit of bad engineering in other circuits which I was not allowed to fix.
Being in aircraft engineering, I really know about wire size and current carrying capabilities and causes of electrical fires. I follow aircraft accidents very carefully. I come up with my own best synopsis as to why things happen.
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240hoke: Have you compared wire colors/functions between Ez wiring and Painless Wiring documents? Just curious if they both use the same wire color per wire function. Thanks for saying that a schematic is invaluable. Produced a schematic for 240Z2NV for a 2 speed cooling fan using control wires from a PCM designed for DUAL cooling fans. I have 38+ years of Aviation Electronics experience from technician/installer level to designer/engineer/FAA and foreign certification. I have seen and worked on all kinds of wiring diagrams, interfacing all kinds of Avionics, from all kinds of Aviation Mod centers. I specialized in Flight Management Systems which manage MANY sensors including GPS into ONE navigation solution. This is one of the most complicated and useful systems going into Corporate Jet Aircraft.
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As long as the mounting points will match up I guess???? Suppose some minor mods could be made to make it fit either way.
Horatio: The one thing about the Ebay advertizement that makes me scratch my head is 3 row??? The Datsun conversion book in Chapter 12 shows the end of the radiator core which is one or two oval 1.5" tubes. I purchase a Jags That Run (JTR) radiator and it appears to be a single row. This offers the least resistance to airflow through the radiator and the best transfer of heat to the airflow through it. To be more efficient it appears that a single row tube of something longer than 1.5" and yet the same height yields more heat transfer surface with the least amount of drag to the airflow through the radiator.
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Tony D: Sure makes a hell of a lot of sense what you have experienced. The springs are just another failure point. Thanks ever so much for the explanation. Did not know about solid hubs but they make a LOT OF SENSE. Now I want a solid hub clutch disk!
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As promised, sneaking up on a tune at 12 lbs of boost...just a quick run...sounds like a cadillac...
)Recent pics also
Wayne
rytherwr: It appears that you are using an Electromotive ignition. Does the same system also handle the Edelbrock fuel injection or is there a separate controller for it? I want to use the Pro-Flo XT RAM manifold, Pico injectors, Fuel Rails but use a GM Gen III PCM to control the Fuel Injection. Just wondering where you purchased the Edelbrock components.
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Tony D: Just for my education what is a sprung hub versus a solid disk? I refer to the sentences: "You Datsun Guys and your sprung hubs. I swear. Drive a solid disc like the VW guys do and you don't have to worry about your springs compressing...and if you have any competence with your left foot control and clutch release, it drives just as nice as a sprung hub, with less to go wrong!"
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This would come under my definition of 'performance maximization'...
Recall we gained 40HP on the Bonneville car by swapping to EFI and ITBs from identically sized Weber DCOE's. Even our dyno operator said it "You could have gotten that power with 55 Webers, but you wouldn't have had the reliability without the crankfired igniton."
It's all how you define tweaks and polishing. I never said idiots. I said some people just don't think any variation from standard assembly tolerances is acceptable. We put the Bonneville engine together in a Home Garage in Clairmont. It was covered with a Hefty Bag when we left for the evening. This stuff isn't rocket science, but there may be a bit of art to it.
If you are searching for a concrete quantification or scientific explanation, I proffer you won't get one. That would put his setup into a Factory Assembly Manual mode---the next guy goes and follows all the exact same dimensions (lets say to 5 decimal places, for argument), follows the same component list, and then yields 20, 30, 40 HP less.
How do you explain it?
Many of these EP gurus you speak of, do they punch out the engine and warranty how much power it will make before putting it on the dyno? Unlikely, they will give you a 'range' and if it's not up to their liking, it comes back apart. If it is, they go 'whew' and send you the bill.
But until it goes on the dyno, even knowing every component is what it's supposed to be...they don't know for sure till it runs!
Tony D: You are right on the mark. It is about the tweaks and polishing. Knowing that there are certain things that help make MORE power.
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Robello is not about to give away their secrets when it comes to engine building. If you have been following the threads about quench/squish some of the secrets have already leaked out. Robello is not the only ones to know the secrets of good fast combustion without attendant knock.
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The hood still clears the top of the intake plenum on the RamJet 350, which is great because I don't want a modified hood. I like it stock looking. I can't tell you the exact measurement, but it does fit without modification.
Good deal on the hood clearance. Now I can go ahead with the RamJet manifold.
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I have gotten to the point of either walking away from this six year build, or taking a sledge hammer to it. This project began with the anticipation of assistance in areas where I have minimal knowledge. Finding reliable folks AFTER-their commitment, is like finding a needle in a haystack blindfolded.
Anyway, I am wiring the build FROM-SCRATCH because it began its Life with me having ZERO wires in place. I have read two books, and posted ads on craigslist to PAY FOR ASSISTANCE, and to no avail, here I am. I am so close to being able to do final asembly; but, I want to do wire runs first.
Please do not ask why I just didn't buy a Painless kit....
So, I am looking for help from someone with expertise in advanced wiring, relays, capacitors, diodes, etc. I am more than happy to pay someone for their time TO ANSWER QUESTIONS. I do not need someone to do the work, just help me diagnose and formulate the circuits [which I have drawn up individually on poster boards]. I cannot express how much I would appreciate any help at this point. I do not have much money, been out of work for eleven months; but, I am SURE that we can arrange fair compensation to answer questions. PLEASE.
240Z2NV: Don't give up there is help here. There is also a fellow on classiczcars.com in the 240 Electrical section that may be able to help also. He supplies vendors with modification harnesses for the Datsuns. I personally have 38+ years experience in Aviation Electronics all the way from wiring aircraft to designing interfaces between the black boxes and doing certification of same.
Please describe the electrical configuration (240z?) you are looking to do. There are cheaper ways to go than (most expensive) Painless Wiring. On Ebay right now there is a 240Z Series 2 Dash Harness. I am looking for a Series 1 Dash Harness that I can reverse engineer.
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I'm getting ready to order a cell for the Z. My gut tells me to go with alum but I wanted to hear what you all thought of the plastic units. I'll most likely just get something from Summit or Jegs. This is going in a street car with the occasional track day and AX.
Roostmonkey: I want to do the same thing. I am leaning toward a plastic unit with foam inside in that when hit lightly the plastic will absorb and rebound. I want to mount it in a fabbed steel frame where the spare tire is now with aluminum skinned out frame. I want a 15-20 gal tank with GM sender and sump. Have not yet found an internal fuel pump to fit. External fuel pump may be better. Starting out with Carb but will be converting to GM Gen III EFI. Also want to use the Datsun for occasional track day.
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Electric or mechanical fuel pump, it is always advisable to have a pressure regulator and return fuel line.
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Grumpy: I am building a 1-piece rear seal SBC 350 stroked to a 383. The main bearing caps have already been line honed and ARP studs installed. I have been nagged by thoughts about using a 4 bolt main block with a 1-piece seal instead. I have purchased AFR 195 CNC heads and all the bottom end is forged. Will use a GM Hot Cam after closely investigating Compcams Web site. This should get good torque. Question, is the 4 bolt main block SIGNIFICANTLY stronger than the 2 bolt block? Was planning a more aggressive camshaft in an attempt to get 500Hp and 500Ft/Lbs of torque. With the hot cam not likely to achieve these numbers. Is the two bolt block up to the task with these items installed? Hopefully only intermittently going to push 400+ HP and Torque. The block has been shaved for 0.005" top of piston in block and planning 0.028 GM head gasket for good quench/squish. Am planning to ceramic coat the combustion space in the heads, exhaust ports and backside of tops of valves to reduce detonation and carbon from sticking.
Would appreciate your comments to the questions and this scheme. Thanks.
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kk240: The centerforce 153 tooth STEEL flywheel weighs 28+ pounds. I purchased a Fidanza aluminum flywheel of 11 pounds on Ebay for $300+. Purchased the GM adapter from GMpartsdirect.com. Cannot recall the cost for same. Purchased the Centerforce dual friction clutch disk and pressure plate off of Ebay for substantially less than same on Summit Racing. It did have some rust but media blasted this off. Purchased the slave cylinder from Summit Racing manufactured by McLeod. Purchased the specific bolts which attach the pressure plate to the flywheel from GMpartsdirect.com.
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Bigdeezs: Which fuel injection system is this on the LSx system in these photos?
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rdelat: Got so enthused with your photos, should not have asked about making air damns. Hope to hear something from you soon. Hope you will make these items out of fiberglass. I REALLY LIKE the aero front, just needs to be extended downward and I will add a splitter to the bottom ala NASCAR COT.
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I went with the same kit from MM except for the z31, and ended up having fitment problems. I had Mark Williams make essentially the same thing but stronger. I am hoping the R200 CLSD output shafts/cv shafts will hold inside the diff. I sleeved the axle on the CV shaft with 4130 Cr-Mo pipe, so now I am only concerned about where the CV plugs into the carrier.
SATAN: Did Mark Williams make a set of BEEFY stub axles and inboard CV half shaft mating flanges for you with 5x4.5 wheel stud spacing? What EXACTLY is the issue about of the CV shaft holding in the carrier?
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RSICARD: I appreciate all the help. Have you installed it yet? Is it an 11" clutch with a 153 tooth flywheel? Did you have any intentions of using a hydraulic throw out bearing? I heard that hydraulic was the way to go, any ideas?
kk240: I have an 11" centerforce dual friction clutch and a Fidanza Aluminum 153 tooth flywheel. Have NO intentions to use a hydraulic throw out bearing. A fellow that I used to work with had a jeep with a hydraulic throw out bearing and he hated it because when it failed, which it did, it required removing the transmission to replace the throw out bearing. This is why I stayed away from same. Using GM adapter and McLeod slave hydraulic cylinder to actuate pull-type clutch. Have not installed same but expect only one problem and that is the trans tunnel interference with the slave cylinder. I can handle that. Talked with AMP performance from Phoenix at the super chevy show last weekend at the drag strip and he said that he can fix the weak points in the T56 transmission. I think that I will make a fixture and do it myself by ordering the parts and just doing it.
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SATAN: The same DAM thing happens to the 280Z stub axles when used with the CV half shafts and the 300ZXT R200 CLSD. I was one of the few that received a BEEFED up stub axles from MM which should eliminate this happening. The BEEFED stub axles no longer have the abrupt step down to the spline portion of the shaft. It is only a step down enough to be able to slip the bearings onto the shaft. I have a SBC and want to get 500+ Ft/Lbs torque from same transmitted to the R200 CLSD through the Turbo CV half shafts to the BEEFY stub axles to the wheels and tires.
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waterjetguy and MYRON: Called JustDashes in California and they quoted $1200.00 to refurbish my 240Z dash. Once they are done don't know the chances of it cracking again from being in the sun for a short period of time here in Aridzona. 20 hours labor into $1200.00 yields $60.00/hour and likely waterjetguy shop labor rate is $100.00+. Maybe there are other factors unknown to myself in the process. Looks like I will just have to reburbish the dash on my own.
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Still a lot of work to get done, wire up a few guages, weather proof the cut fenders, get a harness bar welded in, alternator upgrade, could use a new fan setup, and god the paint is terrible after rolling the fenders but she sure does clean up for a photoshoot.
Unwashed, Unchopped--except for the plates
streeteg: Now THAT is the kind of aero front end that I WANT. You have done a magnificent job on all of the aero on your Datsun. Just needs a splitter at the bottom of the air dam in front to get maximum downforce at speed. PLEASE tell us what parts you used to accomplish these aero modifications.
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I am adapting 300ZXT CV Axles with Modern Motorsports (MM) CV Adapters with 280Z flanges into a 71' 240 with R200. I have OEM CV axles from 86' #))ZXT. My diff is out for rebuild. I searched around when considering this conversion and most people were in favor of the MM adapters and according to their website flip the bearing cage on the axle and it is a bolt in. Now I am finding some posts stating there needs to be grinding done, etc. and the issue of binding and low amount of travel in the axle. I am spending alot of $$$ on this differential. I need to be sure it will not be damaged.
Naturally I did not find these posts until today. Yesterday, I finally got my rear suspension put back in. I am hoping this can be addressed without having the MM adapters machined.
Any input would be appreciated.
Anyone do this exact swap into a 71'?
NCZZZ: Have done this exact modification and plenty more. If you have a stock rear strut and spring, you should have more than adequate room for the MM CV adapters and CV halfshafts. I went further by shortening the struts, installing 8" coilovers and adjustable sleeves for the bottom of the coil spring. Additionally, I have a R200 Clutch Limited Slip Differential installed. The shortened struts put somewhat a squeeze on the drivers side CV half shaft yet I still have a small amount of play with the rear struts cambered outward. All of this is in my early 1971 Series 1 240Z.
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talk to me about milling machines
in Fabrication / Welding
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