WizardBlack
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Posts posted by WizardBlack
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Lots of suspension pics and bushing stuff, etc. on this site:
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From the original post:
Yeah, I caught that part, but it seemed like you were saying 'there is no such thing as TTY', or something along those lines.
To the OP, you might try giving a good Nissan dealer a ring. They might give ya the spec for the bolts.
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Engine coolant temp is deficient to intake temp, even to a top-mounted subaru turbo motor.
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this stuff...
Very interesting stuff. Thanks!
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this is waht i'm talking about
Oh, duh.
You'll just need to find an owner parting out a car, I suspect. I have one but need it until I get the fuel cell in.
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no bolt on the planet should ever be torqued to yield.
Huh?
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I'd go with bronze on silver, but I love gold on most colours.
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Don't. Buy. Chinese. Turbos.
Here we go again....
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I've got an S13 Blacktop sr20det. I'm running a walbro 255 pump, a FMIC, and 3inch full exhaust. I've been reading that 10psi is the maximum safe boost levels. Two local shops. Saisan motorsports and SG Motorsports say I should be able to run 13-14psi on my setup. Any recommendations?
On a side note I'm switching to an electronic boost controller. I've decided to go with the Blitz SBC ID, just not sure if I should go with the Spec S or the Spec R. The Spec R has two solenoids. Does it really make that much of a difference. My plan was to eventually switch my turbo to a GT2871r. Any suggestions help. Thank you.
Do some research on the turbo boost levels. Your question about the boost controllers, however, is an opinion. Buy a manual boost controller and save the ~$500 from the gizmo-tronic boost controller, IMHO. It has lots of blinky lights and pointless graphics, IMHO, but a certain crowd seems to approve of that sort of thing. Nothing beats a mechanical boost gauge or a high speed stepper boost gauge, so you can see pulsations, etc in the signal. The Blitz LED setup won't give you (or rather your tuner) the highest degree of feedback on what's going on.
I used to operate a speed shop specializing in turbo imports, so I've used most of the EBC's sold over the last 10 yrs. If you gotta have an EBC, I'd recommend the GReddy Profec-B.
If you want an opinion to reinforce the Blitz choice, go check out zilvia.net, nicoclub.com, etc. There are a million SR20DET cars on there that have already answered these questions many times.
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The directions suck ass and I can't find anything online that shows the correct way to wire it up...
Shame on you! Where's your Search-Fu?
You appear to have this style:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15338/10002/-1#
It uses the standard GM 0~90 Ohm Fuel Level Sending Unit which works with an Autometer Gauge. It's just a rheostat.
Here is your instructions:
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/500/555/555-15352.pdf
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Are you referring to a Fuel Pump Relay?
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I was hoping I'd come across something like this since I will be need replacements for the stock hangers.
McMaster seems to be the answer. I'm probably going with some of these
http://www.mcmaster.com/#vibration-damping-clamps/=3u3zrf
*edit* you have to click on catalog page 1491 or 1492 to see the ones I'm talking about (haven't decided between the two)
You can get those (probably for less) at a Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.
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WTF?
quote "The car has salvaged title because of the wide body on the car."
Maybe it was meant to be the other way around..
Car has wide body because of the salvage title.
Dunno.
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I don't know which generation/motor you are referring to, but if you really gotta have the vehicle specific threshold and battery compensation, download AEM EMS software and their basemap for that engine. They check the injectors and it is included in the basemap.
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You know what I'm talking about
N/A VQ is still going to be more involved and expensive then a Terbeaux L28, much less a TT setup
Yep.
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Yah I agree. I was just thinking the same about our old cars. I have AT LEAST $2000 worth of stroker motor in there, plus paint and body from this past June, plus a bunch of other little things. I think if they try to total it I'm going to hit the road and call up the dude responsible for it. He came off as a very straight forward honest man, very apologetic, etc. I don't know if he's made of money BUT I can ask him whether he would pay for it, avoid the insurance hit, and help me avoid the salvaged title. If it comes out to be one of those write the car off situations and I can't do anything about it, I'll probably attempt to throw a fit and explain the way I'm thinking, that being; why should I be punished for something YOUR customer did to me. I'm taking a hit and I wasn't even sitting in the car, nor was it parked in any illegal spot.
Or I could just call my agent and do something smart.
I'm finding it funny how these "agents" say call them but they're never there. What do you do if you aren't there to take calls about accidents. i always get the secretary or someone else. Does the big wig not have to do anything?
The big wig should be out and about selling policies and helping his customers. Give them a bit of time; they don't always stay in the office, but they should be good about getting back to you.
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Mercedes Benz M104.99x
If you don't stop throwing MB part numbers around, I am going to have to learn another brand line.
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whereas a VQ35 is going to be pretty limited with power upgrades, and you'll need to be a fairly decent fabricator unless you have deep pockets.
Limited? What's limited about twin turbos?
To the OP, if you think that dropping an L28ET in is the same difficulty level and price range as installing a VQ powertrain, then you definitely need to do some more searching. I would recommend L-series in that case.
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By the way, post 13 of my build thread includes my notes on how it affects bleeding the cooling system and some other minor things if anyone intends to do it.
Build thread
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V
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Ok so with all of this discussion, I think I am going to jump off this cliff and have the cylinderhead done from #2-#6. I don't think #1 is really an issue as it is right at that large hole for the thermostat housing. I have completed #5 & 6, and was intending on doing # 3 but between 3 & 4 is difficult to do. I have already invested about 300 in what I have done, but the union T I used (swedgelock) is to big to get between 3 & 4 so a redesign is in order.
I will get the 1/4 NPT fittings, do the intake clearancing for 3-4 use the A/N fittings and run the tubes to a common tube 1/2" but instead of using fittings have each tibe TIG welded to the common return pipe. I use a local welder here Master Craft Welding to do the work. This guys TIG welding is the best I have ever seen, very percise and very clean. I have him do the work I want to look good and be strong. I have already bought all of the -6 45 1/4" NPT fittings. Getting around the head stud between 3-4 is going to be the tough one, but I think it is doable. And just to make sure where it needs to go, I have a good door stopper P90 head I will section to make sure of the fitting locations.
Why is it that every time I get involved in this stuff it starts costing me lots of money LOL, but its only money right? Anyway this is just part of the crap I am working on right now, and since I just dropped close to 4 grand on components for a race head what the hell!
I am not sure that doing five of the six is a good way to go. I believe we talked about that earlier in the thread and Tony made some great comments on it. If you did all of them, you still have a flow bias, no? Someone who remembers their engineering better than I could confirm, but you could very well increase the discrepancy.
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Support for that theory!!!!
My reaction to seeing these four pics was "Holy freakin CRAP his engine bay is gonna be nice!!"
But this neck on the left needs some more cleaning to be up to par, man!
LOL, thanks. Overall pics are on my build thread (in my sig). I need to update it, but my "to install" stack of parts is getting larger than my accomplished list.
The neck is corroded a bit, so definitely difficult to get really clean. The inside is deburred, smoothed, etc. just like the front cover's coolant circuit, however.
Eventually (if I still stick with L-motors) it will have a nice billet plate with AN fitting instead.I am contemplating if drilling a (very) carefully placed 1/2" hole at each tap spot is beneficial to clean the cooling jackets (and then install a threaded plug) wouldn't be helpful.
Honestly, I've been wondering why my stock N42/N47 motor doesn't make more power at 15 psi with new HG, rebuilt top end and isky cam than getting the cooling system better.
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WOAH!
That looper aroudn the back of the head to the water pump inlet is not doing you any favors, as a matter of fact you'r putting the hottest water in the head back into the inlet of the pump---terrible! That needs to go to a COOLER before being recirculated to the inlet of the pump!
Bo's goes through a turbo (to get heated even more) before going to that point. Expediency is true, yes. It works, so I am happy. I think making the flow even was a higher priority than overall load on the cooling system. It's not a perfect solution, I know. I also reasoned that this would help boost the flow through those two cylinders versus routing both to the t-stat housing; helping overcome the natural restrictions in the head jacket there.
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I do believe that Hybridz is a site where all car makes are respected. Just fyi
LOL, I thought the same thing.
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The problem with most of our cars is we have WAY more in them than the insurance company will cover. I keep my car covered with a stated value policy. Otherwise, you can go find a basic S30 that still runs and is totally stock. Figure what that costs and that's what the insurance company will consider your car is worth. If the car is totaled, they will give you that value, but you still have to buy the car back. Then you have a totaled car that has to pass an inspection by the state to get it registered to drive on public roads.
The big thing is you will probably have to contend with the insurance adjuster; depending on the company he/she works for and his/her attitude. You may need to get advice from your own company; if you know your insurance agent well.
The most important thing is to stay polite, do your own research on vehicle values and don't just accept what they tell you.
Having researched EQUIVALENT cars is the important thing for you to do. A rusted out, barely running, stock vehicle is not equivalent. That's going to be your big point of contention. Take the 'for sale' threads on here (with pics) and other sites, autotrader.com, carbuyer.com, etc is going to be very important for you so you can get what you want out of it.
I have had several claims (unfortunately). I had a modified (heavily) '02 WRX that ended up totalled. New it cost $23k and was a year old. It probably booked $18k or so, but I had LOTS of documentation of the modifications, upgraded equipment, paint job, etc. When the adjuster came in, I handed him a binder of spreadsheets, printouts of car part websites, etc. When it was over, I payed the car off (it was a 60 month loan and no substantial down payment) and cleared something like $7k for the additional improvements I made.
The last option is, if it totals and you don't like the payback value, insist that they replace the car with an equivalent model. (Notice that repeat of 'equivalent'?) The biggest thing is show that you have honest intentions and want to be reasonable and polite with the adjuster.
Eventually (if I still stick with L-motors) it will have a nice billet plate with AN fitting instead.
thought ons this color
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
I understand some of the sentiment of other guys' opinions. I'd just say that blacking out the spoiler and flares would probably make it a bit nicer setup. Perhaps with gold wheels if that's not too bold for ya.