WizardBlack
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Posts posted by WizardBlack
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are you trying to use a front or rear sump oil pan? IIRC it needs a rear sump pan.
Clearly a rear/mid sump. The engine came with a front sump and it's only 3/8" clearance from the front end of the girdle to the power steering rack without the pan on there. I mounted it without the pan on to get an idea how I would need to make the new pan.
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I got McKinney mounts for my RB25 powertrain in my 280Z. Something is a bit odd. I mounted the powertrain with the oil pan off to see what kind of clearances I was going to have for the oil pan. With no pan on, my main girdle is ~3/8" from the steering rack. Do you guys typically get them that close and make the front of your oil pan that close to the girdle? I am not sure I got the right mount set as the funky 280z trans mount isn't even close to fitting. No way, no how (yes, I know how to orient it, etc.)
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So how safe would I be if I only want about 450Hp and what mods do I need to get me there. Whats the most I can expect with 550 injector, nistune ecu, fmic, and running about 12 psi on a stock turbo.
You need an upgraded turbo. You are way low on both available boost and flow of the boost you are getting by sticking with the stock turbo. Look at a Holset, etc. The holsets with a v-band outlet are probably easier to fab a downpipe for, anyways.
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My friends say there is no way I can get 350 on RB25 without changing the injectors and turbo. But I have seen some people post around 370 with stock turbo and injector.
IIRC, the injectors are 370 cc.
Oil pan requirements depend on what you want to do with the car. Road racing is probably the hardest on pan requirements. Check the Aussie forums for whp capabilities.
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So with a big oil pan and more oil will that prevent that problem I heard about with RBs once they get to a certain horsepower. I heard that RB25 usually throw a rod around 500 and Rb26 around 600 with stock internals. Or is that a some type of tuning issue and not associated with the amount of oil flowing around the engine.
The oil pump design isn't the best, either.
Power limits are definitely affected by tuning. The further you go, the narrower your margin is going to be. At a certain point, it's just a matter of time. Most engines don't have concrete and very precise information on this. There are merely examples of when one blew or one that's able to put some numbers down on a dyno and still stay together (for some period of time). Beyond that, it's mostly a crapshoot.
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Boys, we've been used.
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Even if you get a brutal launch and your et sucks, the trap speed should still dial in with your weight to get a accurate HP measurement. Dyno's have their uses but they often do not give accurate HP measurements.
Dynos are for comparative (ie., pre/post changes) purposes only.
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turbonetic evolution 38mm WG
greddy profec b boost controller
I agree with the others, the WG can't be doing it. If it creeps up to 14 psi, for example, try setting the EBC to 14 and see if it creeps anymore.
Profec B's are pretty darn solid, however. Is it a spec 1 or spec 2? IIRC, the spec 1 (at least) has a balance knob that can mess things up a bit.
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Ok gang heres my problem – Maybe someone can pointout the obvious that I’m missing here. Took My 75 L28 motor off the scca track and decided to make some mods since I was not restricted by a class rules. My L28 motor was basically stock and since I had a worn out 83 L28 turbo motor sitting here I decided to turn my 75L28 into a very mild turbo car. Here are the changes made to the 75 L28 I bolted on the turbo exhaust manifold and added a T3T4 Hybrid Turbo along with a good size Intercooler. I also bolted on a 240 sx 60mm throttle body and during that swap reinstalled the stock L28 TPS on that TB . I then Installed the Turbo injectors from the 83 turbo motor and the AFM from the 83 Turbo (after swapping guts from 75AFM) motor. End of Changes .Went to fire it up today and I have no fuel being sprayed by the injectors. I have spark to the cylinders and everything else appears fine but no gas being injected. With ignition on I have an electric signal to all injectors but no spray happening. Plugs are bone dry.Noid light shows no pulse. Checked and cleaned all connections on ECU,Dropping Resisstors, Fusible links.Power going into ECU and coming off pin 15 I'm relly at a loss here Any Ideas. Need Help Thanks
Very carefully describe what fuel components you changed and how you routed them, please. Do you have pressurized fuel in the rail? Are you sure your lines are not reversed? Did you change computers? Hot side on the injectors doesn't mean you have the ECU providing a signal.
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Scoobies sound wicked with high compression N/A heads on them, too. One of my top 5 favourite sounding engines.
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Um, are you agreeing with me?
Yup. QFT = Quoted For Truth.
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I switched out my boost controller with Chris with no luck. It just does not make sense? With the top of the WG unhooked and plugged it hold the stock 9lbs to 6500, hook the top line back up, then with the boost controller off for the 9lb setting it creep from 9-15lbs by 6500 rpm? I got a diamond tooth porting tool from Chris and im taking the manifold back off to port the dog poop outta the WG????
Sorry, what WG and BC exactly?
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Do a search, every time guys have went to a shorter gear, there ET's have went down.
QFT!
If you don't understand or believe this, watch videos (or bum a ride from a buddy) with a big turbo STi. The close ratio 6-speed trans results in you spooling half of the time your are accelerating and then you have to shift again. Too close makes you have to spool the turbo more.
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A screamer pipe is just name for an open wastegate pipe.
They are cool for a while, but I kinda got tired of the first one I did about 2 weeks later. That was a DD, though.
Pre-IC air temps might give you a good clue if you're maxing it out, but I seriously doubt it.
Your BC should not be doing that, it should only delay spool, not make it creep. Check your vac lines; anything other than silicone or high grade stuff can eventually fail; usually right where it slides onto a barb.
Tony, surely 'the act' wasn't directly correlated to the costs, now was it?
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toyota celica.
My nissan 350z is white with black rims and black window tint. A kid told me today that my car has the "storm trooper" look.
Not to be confused with this:
lol!
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Who said Eagle rods weren't strong? Do you think they hold 1/3 of the torque that rods costing 3X their price could?
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Fab it.
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Most of the small automobile engines wear out the oil long before it becomes fouled with soot.
OK, gotcha. So adding some capacity, keeping it cool and ensuring good pressure are the things to go after.
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In your position, I'd do the black Autometers. They are so nice...
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i see, good thinking... and working on it.
basic cut and flip with the oil pickup is 350.00 plus shipping.
adding wings for more volume of oil and trap doors i am figuring out.
will let u guys know
by the way thanks to all for your interest!
Alright, whatcha got on the wings and trap doors. I am resolved to get this done right the first time. I am interested in increased capacity and trap doors.
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Hey, thanks for taking the time to post your thoughts on the subject.
The particular Amsoil kit I was looking at combines a standard oil relocation with the bypass kit into one filter block, so all oil goes through the system and won't let any oil bypass the entire oiling system and just dump into the oil pan like the single kit. It comes with a spin-on oil filter adapter to screw onto the block, etc. The only concern I noted is that the main oil filter spot on the amsoil filter block has a very mild check valve in it's feed circuit to provide a little bit of backpressure so that it will actually push some oil through the bypass filter (which requires a little oomph to get through, obviously). I would suspect that this will raise the effort of the oil pump a little bit, but otherwise it would hardly push any oil whatsoever through the bypass filter.
Here is a link to the model I picked up for basically free. It's BMK-23. Page two shows the filter block.
I wasn't aware of the issues with oil coolers and the concept of overcooling the oil. Very good to know.
Likewise, the accusump's downsides (or wasted efforts) from oversizing. I take it that if you want to do the basic setup with a ball valve you have to plumb the oil line into the cockpit?
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Nobody? OK, I've been around long enough to know if a tech thread gets no answers that either 1) It's a dumb question and obvious 2) It's too vague and no one wants to bother trying to get explicit details out of the poster or 3) no one has any idea or anything to comment on it. I seriously doubt it's 3.
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Check out these 5 pictures. A guy with a buggy shortened his oil pan on a EG33. Interesting idea I thought. I would have liked to add wings to the pan to add the capacity lost by making it shorter.
Interesting idea, but I wouldn't put that on something that likes to turn lateral G's...
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here is the thread with the factory intake doing 400+
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=148609
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Well, he has it on now and I think he's headed for a little more than that, if you know what I mean.
Phil, did they talk to you about what oil to use on the Isky cam?
tacho says no. 280zx
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
There was a comment about the Autometer tachs with an RB. They posted a diagram of a similar setup, but used a much lower resistance for the pullup. It's in one of the stickies. You has teh search?
Let us know.