jomz shakes

I bought those,the bolts and ground down too much and theres not enough room for a ratchet. I have to take this thing off with the heat shield or grind it all the way down. any more tool suggestions for takig off the top exhaust manifold bolts with the heat shield still on??

I bought those,the bolts and ground down too much and theres not enough room for a ratchet. I have to take this thing off with the heat shield or grind it all the way down. any more tool suggestions for takig off the top exhaust manifold bolts with the heat shield still on??

ive tried all i have to work with is simple craftsman small medium large extensions and a swivel joint,

NO, the bolts are ground/stripped down they need to be cut not screwed out. any ideas ANYONE???

ya, my bolts are all stripped, theres no way a impact driver would fit inbetween the intake and exhaust manifolds, the 3 heatshield bolts directly under the intake manifold .anyone have any ideas? i almost wanna take it to someone, what can i use to break/cut/remove those bolts so i can fix this?

im still trying to get the heatshield off so i can get intake manifold off so i can can take the exhaust manifold off and replace them and the blown gasket.

whats an impact driver???

finally gave up and took it to a small local shop, guy put a huge nut around the broken/stripped fill plug and then welded the inside of the nut around the protruding fill plug and used a huge wrench to get it off. he made it look easy, cost me $35.

yep i did it, after being told to always check the fill plug first. the fill plug is now toast, its impossible at this point to remove it. i have a 82 n/a manual. first thing i found was to fill thru the reverse switch indictor sensor, which im guessing is stripped, either it takes a special sensor socket, or its stripped because a 19mm wrench will not work on it, and 18mm and 11/16th will not fit. so now the reverse sensor is stripped. ive also heard of filling thru the transmission shifter, so i removed the shifter out and poured fluid in the socket that it goes into and fluid doesnt go anywhere "im i doing this wrong?" there was a small bolt to the left of the shifter but on the side a little lower when sitting in the drivers seat, i took it out, theyre was a spring in there and i put a VERY long zip tie in there and it doesnt lead into the transmission. what are my options at this point, ive read all the posts on this and most people figure out this problem with the reverse sender sensor, im gonna try this if i have to what do you guys think. i took out the speedometer gear towards the rear of the car and i want to take it to my buddies lift and lift up just the rear end of the car, til the front bumper is pretty much touching the ground and then fill in exactly 4.25 pints of fluid "which ive read is the perfect amount?", im hoping this will work because its pretty much my only shot if i dont wanna drop the trans. any help would be much appreciated

ok so the heatshield for the intake/exhaust manifold is the only thing holding me back from getting my header exhaust leak fixed, ive spent over 30 hours total trying to get this thing off and ive read every post about it. heres the deal, the guy who sold me the car about 7-8 months back tried to get the header leak fixed but couldnt because the heatshield was a problem, he went ahead and stripped ALL 3 BOLTS for me, the hard ones to get to , the bolts right inbetween the intake and exhaust manifolds, the ones that you have to feel for to get. ive tried tightening them til they snap -nothin.. ive tried cutting them with a long blade and a reciprocating saw at a nasty angle - nothin ive tried getting real with it by putting a long pipe in there and trying to beat the f out of it with a hammer to try and break the aluminum - nothing ive treid prying it to try and rip the aluminum - nothing ive bought a nice dremel kit with a long "flex shaft" attachment, ive proceeded to just chipping away at the top of the bolts but after 5 hours straight ive only gotten like the top half of the easiest bolt to get to. what do i do !???? i want to get a plasma torch and just take my chances but i know it will instantly eat thru the intake manifold, ive got a ton of tools and nothing is helping me, its getting frustrating, any input would be much appreciated,

weatherstrips are rare, everyone loves black trim, seatbelts that work will sell, speedo/ any dash peice in good condition will sell, taillight assemblies, fenders , front struts "for 510's are valuable"

mine has a nasty rattle around the driveshaft, and a heatshield towards the rear-

Thank you

94063 call me 650-867-5567 james

Ok I'm being held back from installing my new turbo engine because I can not find a turbo egr tube. Some one please help me, if u can fab one or repair a cut one that you have let me know, don't be shy feel free to call, 650-867-5567 James I have paypal Also..

ive understood that it will fit but the collar behind the bearing must be the right size. this is what i Know so far. the guy that sold me the clutch/flywheel told me that the collars may not be the right size, its l28et clutch and flywheel going into a 1982 NA 5 speed transmission. he mentioned using a collar that fits on a 240sx, im guessing it was for a sr20 thou? anyone?

What collar do I buy I can not find it? And is the turbo flywheel lighter or heavyier?

Wait I bought a stock turbo clutch/flywheel thinking it was better, is the NA clutch better to use? And can u call me I want that egr tube 650-867-5567 james

Ok I've got my 280zx that I just bought , it's a 1982 NA 5 speed -I've found a guy that will replace my engine with a rebuilt 1983 turbo engine Here's the stuff Im aware i need so far -smog stuff , knock sensor ,relays -turbo ecu -turbo distributor w ignitor -new spark plugs -turbo injectors, o rings , and harness clips -2.5 exhaust -air flow meter -turbo oil line -j piPe -turbo clutch and flywheel w new throwing bearing I'm planning on keeping it smoggable but adding a boost controller and blow off valve, running 12 psi w no I tercooler Here the 2 problems I have "if there's any other u can see let me know" - I can not find a turbo egr tube I'm planning on swapping my egr onto the turbo engine but I need a turbo egr tube Is it that hard to find this part?? - someone is telling me if I keep my stock t5 NA 1982 transmission and grab a turbo clutch/flywheel that the collar is the wrong size, he mentioned I need a collar of a 240sx. To be honest I don't know what a "collar" is so I really want to know exactly what to buy

I've searched and I hear two sides. One that the Mercedes springs are too stiff In the back which makes a oversteering problem and that they hop on the freeway. And the other that there stiff as hell. No one is saying what types of front springs are being used for a decent spring rate to accommodate for The stiff rear. And at that point should I weld a bar up as a rear hatch strut or will this make my car oversteer even more

allright so my car "1982 280zx" kept dying as i was slowing down and at idle so i changed the ignition control module box on the distributor and right after i started it up, there is now a sensor light. the car runs very low power, after 2,3 k power goes flat, feels like a misfire or a huge vacuum leak. heres background info for you out of the box thinkers. i swapped the dashboard at the same time,"also swapped a 79' oil/batt/clock gauge cluster into my 82' at the same time as the ignition control module while the ignition control module was acting up my smog guy found the timing to be too high so he turned it down a little, "around 10 btdc i believe" he couldnt get it all the way down to 8? i grabbed a can of mass air flow cleaner and started spraying it all over my vacuum hoses while it was idling to see if the idle would jump and i didnt feel anything. the exhaust has a lot of pressure comming out the back, seems unnormal "i could be wrong" when i step on the gas in nuetral i hear popping comming from the intake, its pretty loud. definately some back firing please let me know what i can do to test whats wrong with my car here.