Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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pictures are WAY too big, takes too long to load
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WOW, this is great. I bought a Haynes manual in hopes of it having a troubleshooting guide but it does not. Today I got the engine to crank but not start so I was going to search or post about fuel troubleshooting. I am glad I saw this before posting a thread to get flamed on for not searching. This will help so much.
Thank YOU for using the forums in the proper way! All I did was post a thread that I could hotlink to when I wanted to refer someone to the book.
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Phil, you've just given me the greatest idea.....
I'm now going to claim it is my birthday every year on April Fools', and try to see how many people I can pull it off deadpan on. Co workers, etc.
Hats off, thats the only prank that took me this year.. I was really bummed for a few posts there.
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I might have two sets that my brother will have coming up for auction fairly soon for you..
I will try to get pictures ASAP, there is one set similar to the five points posted above, but without center caps and only drilled for 4x114.3, and there is one set my brother called Centerlines but a quick google search didn't turn up a reference pic.. similar to the Centerlines you mentioned, but with a circle made of about 20 1" holes drilled in the dish. Like I said, I will try to get photos but I am working through the end of the weekend, so it might not be as easy as I would like.
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Relax dude, you just didn't understand what I meant. I am fine with taking inventory and making a profit. He meant like sell them for much higher prices. I work man, I understand the profit for your work and everything. I just mean lets not get stingy and just because somebody can't get there to actually pull the part themselves and get the guys low price. Don't increase prices to something where its not helping anybody else because you could get it for the same price closer or something. I do plan to get back and take pictures and try to get an idea of everything he has. That way I can help you guys out. If something cannot be shipped by him I may be able to get it for you and ship it. I don't think shipping entire engines is going to happen without some planning. Same with whole cars. I am not sure how may of the cars don't have titles or are bad titles. He said he has been doing this for 30 years. I am all for somebody labeling every single car and part and having a book of it but that would probably take weeks of solid time alone. I work, I am in school, I am a busy person, its still a 4-5 hour drive for me alone.
I was just trying to make sure you weren't losing perspective.. from your original posting it seemed like you may have been opposed to making a premium for the service rendered, and I can tell you from experience that becoming a vendor of Junque like this is definitely a service for which you will deserve to line your pockets to a reasonable extent.
Shipping on large items is frequently way too expensive to be worth it for the distances I was talking about. Engines and heavy body panels are almost not worth it, unless they are in very good condition and therefore fetching a very good price.
One thing you could make a quick buck off of.. Check to see if there are any RWD Maximas around that have rear disc brakes. A very narrow production range of the Maximas with rear discs had the calipers mounted to a bracket that bolts on to the hub (whereas most were welded and had bolts through them as well, IIRC) This caliper bracket allows you to bolt the rear discs from a 280ZX onto an S30, and has been remanufactured and sold for $150-200 a pair. Obviously those are billet pieces made from pretty shiney metal, and the Maxima pieces are just cast steel, but functionally they are the same and they only weigh about a pound piece in cast iron.
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because of how you lean to turn a motorcycle less air pressure makes the tire flatter and makes the bike feel very heavy and sluggish.
What sort of range is acceptable, then?
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I find that I get stuck behind more Toyota Camry's doing 25% UNDER the speed limit, than any other car. Â It's because Toyota has such a reputation for "ultra-reliability, low-risk, bean-counter-approved", that people who fear the sound of popcorn popping, are driving them. Â It's the ultra-safe, ultra-meek, appliance loving, non-car loving, complete risk avoidance, people that love them most.
I am sure many of them have been walking to their psychiatrists upon reading the headlines about accelerator sticking!
Yesssss!!! Obviously all prejudices are only applicable in *most* cases at best, but this EXACT SAME point underlies the reason I cannot feel very strongly about any Supra, or 2jz swap, or really just about anything Toyota (except the MR2... can't fight the MR2. AE86 was a sweet car, too, a friend of mine in HS had one 12 years ago *just* before they started getting popular.)
I mean, its hard to say "Toyotas suck" when you are a Nissan guy.. but there has always been a magic that they seemed to be missing, and this entire recall thing has had cygnus's exact point (almost word for word) on my mind for a few months now.
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He offered for me to come through and inventory the place and sell it on my own as in buying it from him cheap to turn around and make a profit off of you guys and I turned that down to post here. Please don't turn around and do that to us here since I didn't. I want to make this a place to get EVERY part we need.
What do you meant, don't "do that" to "us?"
The VAST majority of HybridZ members live NOWHERE near this guy, and none of the rest of us will have any access to any of this unless someone does just that.. I am not a hawkish, businesslike person in this regard at all (meaning I am all about helping Brother Man over maximizing personal Profit) but Profit is not immoral; profit is your just reward for investment of time and energy.
This gentleman's parts are worth much more real money if the market is as big as it could be; Limit the business pool to a six hour radius of Antonia, Missouri and you've got parts of Tennessee, Ohio, Indiana, Kentucky, Arkansas, Illinois, and pretty much all of Missouri.. But the Datsun belts are on the West Coast, the desert in the Southwest, and the Northeast (you'll see that I even placed myself outside of any of these "Datsun Belts.") My point is that the parts will simply rust away if left to a limited customer pool.
Nobody can accuse you of charging "too much" when you sell on Ebay. Obviously some parts are utterly impractical to ship, but you could establish yourself as a liaison of sorts, checking the yard for This Left Hand Widget that Albert J S130 (resident of Datsonia, Massachusetts...) just happens to need, and then shipping it to him.. or helping people verify that a road trip with the trailer is justified, or something along those lines.
You can promote the dude's yard, make money for yourself (and him) and leave every person involved much happier for it, without stealing parts out from anyone.
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Thanks for that vid, that was cool to see.
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If you've got access to parts to swap in blind, please try an AFM... I cannot walk you through the procedure to test the circuit (heck, to be honest I'm not sure if I have ever done it myself) but if you can get your hands on a known good one, it is worth a shot.
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oil change, massive cleaning, chain cleansing, oiling, etc, and now it's roadworthy. I also forgot just how much difference 6 psi makes in tires on a bike
Would you say you got the bike..... "wheely" clean?
*Runs*for*cover*behind*bad*pun*shield*
On a less infantile note, why/what sort of difference does 6 psi make on a bike, and what sort of tire pressures are run?
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Wowee wow!! That thing just screams "wheelstander" to me (even if that makes no sense; big Vroom has always made me picture a car flipping itself under its own power)
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No I just thought that's generally where people put aftermarket knock sensors on turbo L series (thinking of Big Phills car)
And how do you know this guy didn't spray down the block surface with the copper spray-a-gasket? Because why would the headgasket be weeping where there is almost zero compression? (around the timing chain housing)
The biggest area of discoloration is directly below the spark plug. Yes, there *is* some discoloration up front, but its schmutz were being forced out of the combustion chamber, then rust will begin forming wherever the paint was least perfect..
And if he did "just spray the block;" then he did it wrong.
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I think you're a bloody genius. I haven't looked at the diagrams in detail to analyze them, so that isn't a critique.. just a compliment!
I've found a not dissimilar relay bracket setup from a late 80's BMW 3 series (uncertain the full model range) and some Maxi-Fuse action from some GM or other (THAT was an interesting trip.. over to the American Side of the Junkyard, Scary!!)
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I *want* to see you push the envelope, so I hope I wasn't coming off with the wrong tone. The heater in my CRX is absolutely anemic (I have an oversized radiator so that doesn't help) and I have just finished spending a winter pondering the addition of an electric coil somewhere to boost the BTUs it pumps out. So, take any criticism in the light of, pushing you to know exactly what you are demanding.
It might not be a bad idea to make a "turbo heat" button, like a momentary switch that would shut off without your finger on it, to turn on an overload coil. Or possibly something on a 2 minute countdown timer.
EDIT
The more I think about that, the more I like the idea of a dead-man switch on an overload coil....
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"Lobe center" is, I am sure, just another way of saying lobe separation angle; the lack of reference point assures that in my mind. I am sorry, I hadn't correctly apprehended your misunderstanding there.
When it comes to "squish," the short answer is no, you can't just get it with pop-up pistons. The theory behind it all, summed up in fifteen seconds or less, is that a flat area left on the firing deck within the combustion chamber, that is all but kissed by the piston, will squish out a section of the 4 dimensional combustion chamber (a glob shape that changes in time as the piston goes up and down) into the remainder. The motion of this air as the piston all but contacts the surface induces a tumbling that controls flame front speed. The only way to get it is to squeeze a flat section of the piston crown up against a flat section of the firing deck, and that is why everyone welds up their "open" chambers into the "peanut shape."
Now, this entire area is one that is open for discussion, because plenty of Americans have made our version of plenty of horses and had no problems running this high compression without detonating.... or so I hear. However, Josh, all the pictures of all the heads you have showed us so far show a welded, peanut shaped closed chamber high quench combustion chamber design.
Our discussion regarding the exhaust setups has been extremely enlightening for me, but I do not see myself having a great deal more to add.... Thanks again for all the information-picking you have done. You did a great job presenting it with enough context to let us all judge its quality for ourselves... In other words, we know how much "read it somewhere on the internet" factor to add in when considering it all.
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In my not-so-humble (but tongue in cheek) opinion...
The only way to convert a Z-car to a targa top is to walk up to one of these...
With one of these....
to remove this...
and then find a tasteful way to integrate it into the lines behind on the Datto.
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The fuel pump relay signal also travels through the AFM. The fuel pump relay operation section of the EFI Bible is one of the thickest and nastiest parts to wade through, but I would suspect a problem elsewhere before a bad ECU, unless the car was struck by lightning (or some other, much more realistic electrical trauma occurred.)
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This:
was exactly what I expected to hear, as well as the 3" all the way back.
By the way, has anyone ever read a book by Arthur C Clarke called Rendezvous with Rama???
Despite that, I want to say that I am studying this as much as anyone, and any ideas or data I add is added in a purely anecdotal (or even hypothetical) manner.
From what I see in my old pictures, that flywheel can't go back 6mm...
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Looking into the collector, no steps or anything:
.....
I'm not saying all this typing is useless, but I don't want to credit all 400 horsies to some pretty headers and a muffler.
1. Don't forget, thats only 1/4". I am pretty handy with metric to standard in my head, but it never hurts to get a reminder.
2 and 3:
I don't know.. this is fascinating me. You are talking about hogging the exhaust ports out pretty huge.. and then as for primary size, stepping UP to 48mm, which is so huge is deserves an f-bomb in front of it (that is, seriously, simply $%^&ing huge!)
Then this ridiculously low pressure (I see anti-reversionary step-ups, likely at the header flange, in my crystal ball) exhaust flows seamlessly into one large (but not awfully so) 3 inch pipe for the ride back, into an expansion chamber and THEN suddenly all of that gass is forced down to a little metered and radiused (maybe thats the wrong term, but planned at the least) orifice that gives it all its pulsing, throbbing Helmholtz effect.
That actually sounds alot like it might just be a pretty big ticket. We don't DO exhaust valved that big in the States, and you can pluck my feathers and call me Suzy if there are many people hogging out their exhaust ports to 44 by 38 was it?! MADNESS!! but its 1672mm^2 compared to a 2025mm^2 50mm exhaust pipe! There's my step!
Still, all hypothesis. I am just pointing out the manner in which all this craziness might be right.
Alrighty here we go...
Cylinder Head
38mm exhaust valves. That's 2mm larger, on both valves, than the stock P90 head which a lot of us call "big valves" I believe...
...The port job on these heads are extreme. Most them are right on the edge of breaking through a water jacket.
38MM valve has a cross sectional area of 1133mm^2. Smaller still. I am unclear from your posting and it is really hard to tell from looking at pics online, how much taper there is to these ports.. but I am guessing very little. Based on what you said, there is a slight inference by your tone that they are pretty well hogged out all the way, and the direction every other piece of data you give lends that credence, too, so I will presume that. 1133, stepping up to 1600, stepping up to 2025.. And then it all gets pinched after a long, smooth, voluminous flow downstream. Crazier like a fox...
They [valve guides] are also slightly shorter (stock is 59mm long, these are 52mm for exhaust and 50mm for intake), and they have more of an angle cut into them on the port side to help airflow within the port.
Smoother airflow, less tumble, less restriction... Until The Big One... !!!
Now comes cam selection. This is a mystery to me,
It is not exactly 100% within my ken either, but it isn't a total mystery.
This is where I need your help you guys! Tell us what the importance of lobe center is! I know what the lobe center is, I just don't know why they are telling me this.
Lobe separation has everything to do with the way the changing pressures in the manifolds enter into the cylinder, and how the gases help push and pull each other through thereby. I can't say anything about how adding or taking away. The overlap, the Lobe Separation angle, and the ramp characteristics (assymetrical, nonlinear ramps would have a quadratic equation defining the function that the ramp describes) will all combine into a given harmonic for a certain car.
And if I am lucky, most of that last paragraph will hold water in the morning..
They ramp up fast and let the valve back down slowly so it doesn't get torn up. Since they are asymmetrical, I'm thinking the lobe center and central angle information is given to tell you when exactly that ramp up is occurring. The fast ramp up (steep side of the lobe) helps with "sudden acceleration".
These stubby fat thumb lobes..... They are very much on-off-on-off... Crisp pulses.
I really think you are righter than you believe, and that the exhaust valve->tip is where we've got to go to really unlock it all. A camshaft is always designed to compliment what the engine builder did with the hard parts anyhow....
But like I said, all of this is reacting and discussing to what has been posted. As always, I welcome anyone tearing down anything I may have overspoken my knowledge on; Punching figures for comparative analysis alone justifies my windbaggery in my mind
:lol: Oh, and BTW +1 for getting yourself a cam ground to your specs. You are not sharing the info, and you aren't even sure if you will be able to build the longblock around it that the camshaft wants to breathe for. Its research. Take any idea you get, from anywhere you can get it, and try it to see what it does. Until the moment you start publishing those specs you are 110% in the clear, IMHO, and even publishing certain aspects about it may well be justifiable, depending on what the situation and who you ask. We aren't talking about an engine lineage where there is likely to be a great deal of concern about Espionage...
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Went and saw Robbie this morning, he laughed.
Didnt realise you were a dealer, excuse my ignorance.
David.
Yah, my mind had already formed the phrases "What, is it gonna be a megasquirt?" in sarcasm before scrolling down, and then "Big Surprise" while scrolling down to read Ron saying just that himself.
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Wow, Josh, thanks a ton for all the info-mining!!!
Your discussion on the exhaust intrigues me, and I immediately noticed you said 38mm exhaust valves, yet 48mm exhaust primaries. Then you mention 3" in and out mufflers, so I presume esentially 2 inch primaries to 3 inch collector? Or would you say they run 3->2->1 setups, using an intermediate size piping? I can see either 6 into 1 with 2"->3" tubing, OR 3 into 2 into one going 2", then 2 1/2", then 3" main exhaust pipes. What I mean is, I can see two different flow patterns there and I am curious which way they typically go, from what you have seen.
Regarding these mufflers, are they essentially:
3" tubing going in, expanding to a tank 4-5" in diameter, then out to a 3 inch tube, which then has this venturi neckdown thing in it? Also, it seems like there are some iterations where this venturi dumps straight to atmosphere once it re-achieves full 3" diameter, where some of them have a recess, and there is a run of full 3" diameter pipe after the exit from the venturi. (At least, some pics are hard to see anything inside the tip of the pipe.)
Last week I was told by Sam Neve (a very reputable east coast L6 builder) that they saw a 20 horsepower loss/gain on a dyno by removing and adding a 6 inch long outlet pipe from a muffler on a particular car, and since then he never sets up an exhaust without a decent length straight run of pipe coming out of the muffler. Given that tidbit, this talk of muffler exit strategy is interesting...
BTW that second vid... instant classic!
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In addition to being right as rain, gogriz's comment reminded me that I had intended to make clear one thing: there ARE ways of tweaking an engine running factory EFI to cope with upgrades to its fuel, air, and spark supply.. Tricks to "richen" the mixture in a controlled fashion to parallel a cam swap, for instance, but these upgrades were never an exact science and it is a field of tweaking that has been abandoned with the advent of cheap and simple programmable EFI.
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1000 watts at 12 volts is over 80 amps!! You're gonna need a black fusible link sized connection for that!
150 times 4 adds up to over 50 amps, so with air flow more like 60 amps of power, which maxes out the stock charging system; even the most common alternator upgrades (the 90 amp Maxima unit or the 100 amp GM stock one-wire) are hard put to keep up with that kind of demand, in addition to:
-150 watts for headlights and tail lights (brakes and turn signals extra..)
-about 100 for wipers, that is a guess on my part, could be more could be less
-You like listening to music? I hope you don't have a SYSTEM, because that draws as much as your heater. If its a more simple stereo, you're looking at another 80-150 watts.
-Is your car fuel injected? I don't have a good idea what amount of power the entire fuel system draws, but unless you are running a stockish SU system with a mechanical pump only, you'll need around 100 watts for a fuel pump as well.
-Radiator fan, if electric, is going to draw another 200-300 watts.
So all that adds up to around another 650-800 watts, divided by 12 volts asks for 55-67 amps all told... which is around the stock electrical system capacity.
So, say you spend the scratch for a 150 amp alternator. 150 amps times 13 volts gives you 1950 watts MAX, and you would need a Completely Re-engineered electrical system in your S30 to achieve that without getting toasted... "8 gauge wire" does not suggest complete re-engineering...
I'm not saying it cannot be done, I am just throwing out a rough estimate of the numbers here. None of my figures are anything more than an educated guess, but the fact that I added up right to the power range of the stock factory alternators (50 or 60 amp) gives me confidence I was pretty close.
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It wasn't really quite a B movie, more just a flop, but there was a movie I remember seeing in the early early 90s, so I would hazard it released 89-91. It was about a kid and his dad, who was a bank robber. they wound up running into his Mom, who he thought was dead, and who drove a Z (280 I think, but I was like 12 and only knew the difference if my dad told me.)
The movie was pretty crappy, but one line in it stands out in my mind.. "We don't do concerts, we're bank robbers!!"
I can't remember the names of any actors, or anything else they may have been in, either. I remember another scene where Dad explained to Junior that they should steal American cars for getaway vehicles to stimulate the economy; the owner, he postulates, will then go buy another American car.
Stupid movie; in the end they all three move to Canada and keep robbing banks I think?? And..... JUST before finally posting this I dug it up. "Fast Getaway" is the title of the movie. The 75 280 is featured rather extensively as a getaway car.
EDIT
HOLY COW Cory Haim played the Kid!!! I've thought about posting a question up about this dumb movie forever, but the timing is just creepy. His character also manages to lose his V-card during the movie, so that is somewhat amusing....
Edit Mark Two:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4eV0eA6atXU&feature=related
This is even better than I remembered!! There is an extensive chase scene with Aerial footage and everything.. Z-car plays the hero and knocks an old F-100 off a cliff.. Th3en starts up and you can hear the valves and injectors over the water pump fan and everything. It even has the same rims as my 75 280!! WATCH! I KNEW this was a gem waiting to be dug up... Someone download and re host these vids before the traffic gets them dropped!!
Wowee wow!! That thing just screams "wheelstander" to me (even if that makes no sense; big Vroom has always made me picture a car flipping itself under its own power)
:lol: 
Rare VG30 Race Parts (Pics)
in Nissan V6 Forum
Posted
That is so f%^*in metal its not even funny....