caszboy

lol, i didnt even think about that reddeth. thanks for the heads up. im going to paint it this weekend. i had to put the deck in just to have music. im currently thinking of plans to put some 6 1/2' rockford speakers in there. right now the PO had a house speaker in there from an old radio. I HAVE to get that fixed, its horrible!

yeah, im just going to paint it flat black to match the rest of the interior. question though, should i primer then paint? if i do flat black should i clear coat? i have always just painted it in the past for sub boxes and stuff butt this will be exposed to sun light all the time and i don't want it to fade.

here is a new pic with the cameleon stereo installed. I used the cameleon just because it doesn't 'stand out' but i still get all the modern tech I'm used to. the ruff line will be hidden once i screw the center console in place. once i paint it black i think it will turn out good. the stereo should just kind of blend in with the rest of the car.

Ok, this is my first time EVER creating a radio mount for a car. i have built sub boxes and other stuff and this was by far the hardest just because the center council is concave. This made it kind of hard as far as sanding goes. but anyways... Here are some pics of the work in progress. I did the test fitting for it today and its going to look great IMO! What do y’all think? Also, i have a radio, im just using the CD changer to help with the fab.

i like your setup a lot Blueoval. i like that you used a Acura grill. that is the type of look im going for. any ideas anyone? I hope you dont mind me posting the pic man.

I am trying to think of ways to get rid of a nasty rust line i discovered after taking off the rear bumper. What do y'all think of these? or what have you done to the rear of a Z car like this? I afraid that this is to ricy...im trying to stay with the sport/muscle car look.

i would say either gauges or wiring.

beautiful car, i love it. hell, i wish i could just be able to fix a rust hole and look good ;p

i get it now i think....it just uses two long bolts on the side of the diff to secure it to the GM bushing then bolts to the tunnel bracket. so it wont bolt to the crossmember at all. correct?

ok, so i searched and this is the conclusion that i came up with... It replaces the front diff mount and assembly and mounts it to the well opposed to the crossmember using a Chevy urethane bushing. Is this correct? this makes it eliminate the future possibility of failing but might increase the noise factor with daily driving. but i still dont understand the mounting and the use of the two bolts. is this 'kit' a two part kit? or just the well mounting bracket? sorry, i have never messed with the diffs in z's before.

im sorry for being stupid on the subject but what exactly is that? does it replace the front and strap mounts for the diff roostmonkey??

just found this. lots of info....i guess i need to either get the stock mount or go solid on all the mounts for the diff. sorry for the repost. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108276&highlight=solid+diff+mount

i searched and couldn't find it so... im thinking about buying the solid front diff mount for the 180 sold by Arizona Zcar. i have the "clunk" in the rear and know this is most likely the culprit. The car has been siting for about 7 years before i got it. so, for you that have this or had this......did you like it? any cons to using it? thanks in advance. sorry if this is a repost casey

does hybridz.org have a chat room? if not....why not????? just an idea!!!!!!!!!!

ill probably get a new skin and see what i can do (or what my friend can do ;0). yeah the targa top thing would never happen on my Z. just because i don't have enough experience nor a place to do it at. I would never trust myself with something like that. I think i will just keep on checking the local yards for non-rusted z parts. it seems to be cheaper and 'better' in the long run doing it like that. thanks guys!

thanks. this was the site i needed.... http://www.nastyz28.com/gm-chevy-codes/chevy-engine-codes-suffix-2.php thanks for searching, maybe i just wasn't using the right terms in the search box????? thanks again

anybody have a site that has sbc 350 specs corresponding with the vehicle? or cast numbers?

thanks for the info. that was what i was looking for. good looking out! looking forward to getting the project going this summer! casey

OK, i have searched and searched and learned a lot about both the sbc 350 swap and sbc motors in general. except for some minor stuff. I'm getting some stuff together to do the swap some time this summer. I have a 1974 260z. I will be doing a carbed setup. Just keep in mind that I'm not new to cars!!!! I will be buying the JTR book shortly. I will be using the JTR Mounting kit as well My Questions are for Gen I 5.7L sbc 350s both two and four bolt: -To change a fuel injected 350 to carbed, it requires and new water pump, intake manifold to accept the carb, and a V-belt correct? -Is the 350 from a Silverado the same as from a Camaro or a Van? except for the heads I'm assuming? -I know there are horse power differences but this is due to the head selection correct? -Is there any benefit to using either a Truck/Van/Car for the swap like more reusable parts to put toward the Z? (not including horsepower) I'm searching for a donor car/truck to get the motor out of. that's why i am asking this info. I know there is not a "perfect donor car" for this project from searching the archives. I'm just looking for a vehicle to get the motor, mounts, radiator, etc out of. I'm going to source the tranny seperate. Thanks in advance for the info. I look forward to joining the ranks of 350Z's this summer. Sorry if these are common sense questions with sbc.

i was bored at home since the weather is so crappy and photoshoped the Zappppp and added a targa top. not the best photoshop but gives an idea..

someone brought up an idea about the roof. a friend told me to get a new sunroof that is slightly bigger. this way when the hole is cut, it removes the bad metal also. just kind of an idea. Also, i have always wanted a car with a targa top (sp?). has ANYONE ever done this with a Z? like the Toyota Supra style top or Honda del sol? sorry if this question has been asked before. Casey

the frame rails from what i can tell are in great shape. the floor pans were replaced about 2 years ago (or so i was told by the PO, they look good). yeah, i think im going to use this as a daily driver until i pick up another Z. then sell this one or use it for parts. This is the third z that i have owned. I sold the other two because i moved 1600 miles. I really want to do the 350 install. im thinking that if i just happen to stumble upon some cash, i might go ahead and install a 350 in this one. Learn as i go and swap everything into a nicer z later. I just don't have the experience for body work, nor a garage anymore (just moved). I dont want to end up being the PO that someone is talking about who messed up a car with crappy bodywork. thanks for the replies. always helpful! I am going for a daily driver/once a month 1/4 mile car.

I bought this 1974 260z (early) not to long ago and now that its warmer outside, I'm starting to take a serious look at the body/paint. I'm not sure if its worth the bodywork and paint. structurally, the car is very sound and running great. There is no rust on the frame, just the body. My plans for the car is to do a 350 V8 swap. So what should i do? just hold out and buy a good body z with motor problems and swap that while i use this as a daily driver? or should i fix the body on this one? I have figured the body work, if done by myself with my friends help to be about $500 for parts and $1500 for paint after i prep it. That's $2000 + my man hours. While i have seen some good body Z's with nice paint for around $3000. About the same price + and extra car. here are some pics. Please help me decide!!!!!!!!!!!!!

you had it right on the money srgunz . your post actually gave me the little voice in the back of my head telling me to "try"

OK, as some might know, I have been messing with my car for about 3 weeks now trying to figure out why its been stalling at lights. My first guess was fuel.... in my opinion it had to be! There was always a little bit of "stuff" in the filter before the pump. So this had to be it right? I started by pulling my gas tank, cleaning it out with tank cleaner. Then I cleaned and painted the tank black. Finally. replaced all the hoses and filters from the tank all the way to the carbs. Then it dawned on me! Why not go ahead and eliminate the all the unnecessary vent lines while I'm at it? They were all kinked anyways! So I JB welded the driver's side vent port at the bottom of the tank. Eliminated the vent box thing inside the passenger compartment. Hooked the front vent port strait to the line running to the engine compartment (charcoal canister). Then stuffed a spring about 1 1/2 feet long into the old 3/8" vent line to prevent it from collapsing again and rerouted that to vent into the filler neck. (if anyone is interested in this, let me know. i will post the "how to") So I installed everything again and it fixed NOTHING! So now, still on my fuel fix, thought it had to be A) the fuel pump or the carbs. The PO didn’t have the mechanical fuel pump hooked up so I'm thinking that the carbs are not getting enough fuel due to lack of pressure. So I hooked up the mechanical fuel pump to find out what would happen and it started spraying gas everywhere! So I thought to myself, I’m not going to use that anytime soon. That leaves only the carbs. I check those, had a friend who is hard-core on carbs look at them and didn’t find anything obvious. He suggested trouble shooting anything else before pulling them. So what then? What could it possibly be? I searched and searched both here and hybridz.org looking for an answer. When I finally came across a post with the same symptoms as me! But the solution to this post was the distributor. Cant be my problem, I thought. I just replaced the old points with the 280zx dizzy with the new ignition module and it ran great for about a month. Well, I broke down and decided what the hell, I will replace the dizzy and the E12-80 with a new "used" one and find out what happened. Can anyone guess???????? IT FIXED THE PROBLEM!!!!!!!! All that messing with the fuel tank and lines (god I hate fuel lines!!) and it was not even the problem. ohh well, at least the gas tank is clean! LOL So if your car dies at lights or stops and if you let it sit for a minute and it starts up like nothing has happened, I suggest checking that if you have a 280zx dizzy with the E12-80. Thanks for the help like always guys! I’m sure I will have more problems in the future. It’s nice to know where to go for the experts, Zcar.com & Hybridz.org!!!!!!!!!!