Raami

Yes I know it is big job but I too like challenges and I am grazy Finn after all. My head is getting valve job but otherwise it is staying stock for now.

Hi. I have to mod the timing chain cover too but not that much actually. The oil is returning from the rear of the head but also from the front because I'm gonna stay with chain so it doesn't matter if the oil is going that way too. That returning oil is also lubricating the chain. But there are still alot to do that I can get the timing chain work. Also the cooling is one thing. Thinking how to get the coolant flow even because that rb-head has water outlet in the side of the head. I hope this topic gets good conversation from this subject and I will not hold any information from my mod if someone has something to ask.

I'm building this kind of setup too. Trying to get it run for next summer. I have rb25det-head that I'm fitting with my L-block. I'm going to use chain drive, stock water and oil pump too. Pics and videos are coming when it is ready and running. C/R is gonna be low as 7.8:1 but boost will compensate it.

Hmm... now where have I seen that kind of design before. Maybe he should remain nameless too. I have been driving my car now for 3 summer and so far no problem... or maybe one set of piston rings only.

No that diesel 240z belongs to another friend. =) I don't know is there any end goal. Just trying to get more and more. Should be fast bmw in the future with that engine.

That is my friend's car. Next goal is getting 600hp from om605.

This is making me wanna change my F-cam to my other cam which is A. Is there really big difference? Both are stock cams as far as I know.

My engine is N42-block and P90-head. I would really like to know if some blocks or heads have different oil paths to the tensioner.

That oilhole that is closer to the timing chain, really feeds the tensioner. So the oil is going first to the head and then it goes to the tensioner. Or atleast in my engine it does.

Just as I expected. No one bothers to reply. I know some are made by spring steel but could it be made by different kind of steel.

What material is that clutch? Could those be made by normal steel or stainless?

How do you know that those ld-rods are cast and not forged like the gas-rods? Those ld-rods have to handle great forces in a low rpm and the piston is also much more heavier than the ones in a gas engine. I would say that those ld-rods are stronger than gas-rods. But that is just my opinion and I have those ld-rods in my N42 L28 with custom forged pistons. The R/S ratio is now 1,77.

Are those bolts same size and I mean diameter? And are the threads same in both bolts or studs? Those can make a difference in wanted torque.

I bought ARP-studs too to my L28 and I'm going to put those with new kameari metalheadgasket. I bought 2 gaskets at the same time so that I don't have to order again soon. =D But back to those ARP-studs. I have always retorqued my head with stock bolts and metalheadgasket but have anyone of you retorqued with ARP-studs?

Do you know with what engine and tranny that pinion assembly came? Here in Finland it's not that same part in those years trucks. Would need one because I'm putting rb25 tranny in my Z.