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luvemfast

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luvemfast last won the day on December 22 2009

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About luvemfast

  • Birthday 05/01/1978

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    Melbourne, Australia

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  1. I currently have 250hp (at the flywheel) and its not so easy, or cheap, to get that. ø89mm bore, longer rods, cutsom pistons, high lift cam, valves, retainers, porting, triple Mikuni's, headers etc etc etc All adds up. If Mega squirt is out of your league........ think you may be kidding yourself! Just go buy a Rebello
  2. That's a sweeeet looking set of pipes! Got a YouTube link to hear it?
  3. I've got triple Mikuni's in my factory EFI car. It's as easy as take off the EFI gear and put on the triples. Are you sure its high compression? It would need domed pistons or welded chambers. As the P90 heads have a big chamber, due to being made for turbo application.
  4. Well, that would be a waste of time! If you have the capacity to model, program and run an CNC program to do the porting. You have the ability to spec the rest of the head to suit!
  5. There is a 5 axis program down here @ Stewart Wilkins racing for an E88 head, or was that N42....... Dyno tested and works quite well. Think it works out to about AUD$5k for a complete 300hp+ head. There's no way they'd ever realese the G-code on that!
  6. Baking soda. Better than a sand or garnet based medium. It breaks down and isn't so critical to clean out 1,000,000%
  7. Great idea. I've been playing around with mine for years. Trying to learn the differences in changing jets and the effects it has on different circuits. I'm certainly getting better at it. But, would like to know what are the optimal AFR's also. I have a book that is kept in the car. It has notes on what the settings, jets are and the weather condition, then I note down the AFR's at different types of driving. Idle, Accellerate, WOT, cruise, pump, decellerate. I've also got the manual for the bolt on kit, which has pages with recommended factory settings. I'll scan it and post it up.
  8. Same as everyone else, looking for better performance. I've found that for my set-up, 55 pilots work best. Just sharing my experience
  9. Well, I tried running 57.5 pilots. Didn't have good results. Was running too rich at idle and fouled a plug at the track. Thought I had a major issue. But with some advise from some boys at the track and PMC, I went back down to 55's and dialed the idle screws down a 1/4 of a turn. AFR's about 14 and goes great. Also noticed I was running 230 airs, not 210's. I'm running a PMC bored L28 2.95L @ 10.5:1 with .59" lift.
  10. Been a while since I've checked this thread. Been an interesting read. I'm currently running in my 44's- (used the Webber book recommendations for base) 55 pilot (52.5 affected higher rpm's) 160 main 210 airs 50 pump (45 would lean out and hesitate) This has made me want to try larger pilots.
  11. Well, at least I've proven that there are guys willing to spend the coin on good bits. Which was actually my goal, as I have a PMC L30 myself. But I'm with Helix. This build should have its own thread and get back on topic of the RB26 head!
  12. Oh dear Did we just go there? Is there an update from the OP?
  13. thanks folks, bottom line is. He needs a regulator
  14. Point being Tony, as you stated, It was just getting in early, before the usual banter started. We are just jelous down here on the pricing and availability you guys have! How much can you buy a strong Rebello L30 for? But then how much to ship it over here? Its good to see that there are guys prepared to get local talent to do these builds here. The main reason we don't just go turbo or RB, is to push the n/a cars to the limits without changing classes for our racing. Sorry for the off topic Peter. Is there any more progress with the NC34 twin cam?
  15. 4.5 pump would get pressure drop from tank to carbs though? And with a return line, that would work ok wouldn't it?
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