NismoZ

quick question for the experienced...would it be a waist of time to throw a cam in a stock l28 with full exhaust and SU carbs? If so why?

Good glad to hear it worked for you.. I think welding is the better alternative.

has anybody tried welding to the worn area then filing it to shape?

would a l28e fuel rail work? I got one sitting in the back i dont need..

pjo046 thanks for the reply...I just figured out the problem...it was due to two power sources fighting over 12 volts which drop the currant just enough to not fire the ignition...I ended up having to rewire some stuff but it all worked out great.. I must say what a difference..car runs really well with minimal exhaust fumes out the tail pipe now..it also has a little more pep but not much...overall it was worth the money spent.

100 views and not one reply?

Ok i ended up buying this ignition...now i need some help.I have wired everything up according to figure 9 http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sum-850702.pdf and ran the purple and green wires directly to the 79 dizzy without the e12-80 modual. The problem i am having is i am not getting any signals from the red and green wire in the Dizzy. Is this normal? am i suppose to wire it differently?I really dont want to piggy back of the e12-80 modual.Can someone chime in with their ignition expertise...I really need help here..Big Thanks in advance btw this is in a 72 240z

Anybody have any experience with this ignition? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=SUM-850602&N=700+115&autoview=sku would it be worth my time and money upgrading from the e12-80 to this ignition?

i wouldn't shave it that much...better off just throwing some flat tops in it with a 1mm Felpro HG in it....that will give you a nice bump in comp...

Yea you can only grind so much..The best thing to do is probably find something to replace the nylon or just buy a new latch all together.

Dragonfly thank you very much...

well i just pulled the cog out and it has a yellow 16 tooth cog in it, so i dont know.

Thanks for the reply Dragonfly,So i am assuming this tranny is not a 81-83 tranny? is there any part number i can look for to verify it

I hope its a 5 speed since i bought it to convert my z.Thanks for the link i saw that one when i was searching around and thought i found my answer, the only thing is it doesn't have the flat plate and sensor on the top.So im still iffy about it.

Hi all, I have a quick question about a tranny i bought today at the local junk yard.Sorry if this should be known but i have searched and have found no answers to this. Anyways i found this tranny laying by a 1982 280zx 2+2 and wanted to know if this was the tranny that went to it, it has a flat plate by the shifter with a sensor by it.thanks

Oh sorry about that Tony I read you last post wrong, I got to start getting more sleep... NZeder I look forward to hearing about your finished project and seeing how it turns out... Question for you guys,whats the biggest bore you can achieve on a L28 Block safely? 89mm, or is 90 obtainable without compromising structural integrity in the block?

Thanks for the reply, So your saying i don't need All that head work to achieve 300 hp? Wouldn't a Lighter valve train improve reliability and efficiency at higher rpms compared to a stock one? I want to build the most efficient L6 possible. So what head, rod and crank combo did you use to achieve 320 to the rear?

Tanks for the help, and thanks for the link NismoZed. So i take it nobody did a non stroker?

Hi guys, just want a little info on some N/A non stroker builds if its possible. I am currently planning on building a l28 up and wanted to know if any of you have built a big bore non stroked (79mm) l6 with a full race ported head big cams, valves and light weight valve train? Considering all i can find is stroker builds I was curious if this has been done and and what kind of power it put out.Thanks

I know this sounds ghetto but you can also use some duck tape, just cut a very skinny piece about 5" long and rap it very tightly around the area the nylon piece went. worked great for me, shuts and opens like new.

Id say rb25 if you got the money...Im in the same dilemma when i comes to choosing a powerplant..since i dont have the money for a rb swap right now im just going to rebuild my l28 and do some head work with a decent cam and throw some tripples on it..I think that will hold me over for a while...All in all the rb would make a great DD/track engine if swapped right..Sorry if this isn't much help

Link to CRS http://www.rodshop.com.au

First off i would like to say hi and thanks for looking..Anyways I have just purchased a 72 z..I have a little question though about its engine that i dont know much about..I wanted to adjust the valves and clean the carbs if needed but i just realized its not stock..it has a N47 head with a l28 block and some stock SUs and im guessing a cam since it has a lope..what would be some good specs for valve clearance?stock settings or somthing differant?