tommyboy

Hmm...So how can I fix that? Sorry, I'm a little new to this whole TDC thing.

You know, I saw that on another thread. What does that mean exactly?

BRAAP was sayin' that you don't really need those things. Just crank the engine a few times an' there'll be enough fuel in the cylinders to start it up. I'll have to check the injectors tomorrow.

I recently had my L28E engine rebuilt. At the same time I decided to modify it by replacing the stock intake with an N42 non-EGR intake (In which I took off the Air Regulator, Thermal Vaccuum Valve (Type-C on the reg.), Cold Start Valve, and Thermotime Switch. I also replaced the stock TB with a 240SX TB. New injectors (along with new conectors from the EFI Harness), plugs, wires, etc. I also replaced the sock fuel rail with an extruded aluminum one which I installed a FPR on. Anywho, I'm listing all the mods I have cause I went to start it, and it'll turn over but won't start. Fuel pressure's good, I have spark. Do you guys know of anything I might be overlooking?

Sweet. Thankx A LOT!!!!

I'm installing Stainless hoses and hose ends in place of stock hoses on my fuel lines and wanted to know if I can switch out the hose ends (got 'em backwards) without having to use lube on em. I only ask cause everything's on the car and if I re-lube I'll have to take 'em off and use solvent on 'em or clean 'em with soapy water, right? Thankx

Sweet! Got it. Thankx mucho!!!!

I'm such a dumbass. I took my plug wires off of the distributor and forgot how they go back on. I can't remember if they go on cylinders 1-6 clockwise starting from #1 on the dizzy (I know which one that is), or if they go on counter clockwise. Can ya help?

I have a 1981 N/A 280ZX and I am putting a 60mm 240SX throttle body on my stock intake. Well, I'm trying to adjust the throttle valve switch on it, but am unsure as to how I'm supposed to do it. Is it just like on the stock TPS, or what? Any help you could gimme would really help!

The plug I got is solid brass. I don't wanna weld it just in case, for some reason, I have to put my old intake manifold back on. What'd you braze it with?

I'm in the process of changing out my stock intake to a non EGR N42 intake. Well, there is a pipe running from the side of my exhaust manifold to where the bottom of the EGR was. I got a 1/2 NPT pipe plug to plug the hole, but I was wondering if I need to seal the threads with some sort of exhaust sealer, or maybe a copper washer or something. I know that standard thread sealant won't cut it because of the heat, so if you guys could throw some ideas my way, I'd REALLY appreciate it. Thankx!!!

It should. The N/A and the turbo ZX's are pretty much the same when it comes to coolant stuff. Just check the thermostat housing and the back of the cylinder head to see if they're the same. Hope everything goes well!!!

Hey bro. That's the Air Regulator. It bypasses the throttle valve, to control the quantity of air required for increasing the engine idling speed when staring the engine at an underhood temp. of below 80 degrees C. (176 degrees F.) Here are a few pics from my service manual for what you might be looking for. The thermotime switch works in conjunction with the cold start valve, so that's not it, even though it has the same plug type. I think that the part you're looking for is the cylinder head temp sensor. (this also has the Bosch style plug). Here's another pic (where it is on the engine) from my manual. I know it's blurry, but the sensor is located on the passenger side under the spark plugs and above where the dipstick is. Hope this helps.

Sorry for the lettering, it's just that I'm car-less until I get everything back on my engine, and this is one of the last things that I need to do. Thankx a bunch for the help Naviathan!!!:mrgreen:

C'MON GUYS!!!! I need some serious help with this!!!:cry::cry:

Alrighty, so like I said, my TB from a 240SX (just got it) only has (what seems to be anyway) 1 vacuum port. So can I install the vacuum tube that's connected to the T.V.V. and the distributor to that port, and the other vacuum tube from the T.V.V. to the manifold?

I just bought a 60mm 240SX TB to put on my N/A 1981 280ZX 2+2 and I noticed that there is only one vacuum hole on the TB, when there are several on my stock one. Well, my question is, do I connect the vacuum line that runs from the T.V.V. in my thermostat housing and my vacuum advance on the distributor, into that hole, or should I buy a piece of air tube and make my own vacuum hole on it? Actually, do I really need to have a vacuum line connected to the distributor? I mean, I know that it advances the spark when the engines cold (Under 131 degrees F.), but I live in AZ where it doesn't take that long for the engine to heat up. So, could I even take the T.V.V. out of the thermostat housing and plug the vacuum opening on the vacuum advance of the distributor, or am I TOTALLY wrong on this subject? BTW, sorry for such a long post.:mrgreen::mrgreen:

Got it taken care of! I had to pull the engine and replace the pilot bushing. I took my time and got it in right this time. It just took a long ass time!!! Thankx for the help guys!!!

The book said to use an appropriate size socket or piece of tubing, so I used a socket that was the exact same size as the bushing. I slowly tapped it in to make sure not to screw the end up. The alignment tool was one made for the bushing and the clutch 'cause it was part of the kit from Exedy (clutch, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bushing, and alignment tool). And like I said earlier, the bushing fit the tool before I installed it, and after I did, it doesn't. But just barely. So, Is the drive shaft supposed to fit into the bushing tight, or snug?

So I've been installing a new engine & clutch on my car, hence all of the recent posts I've been making. Today I took out the old pilot bushing and replaced it with the new one. Well, when I went to put the aligning tool into it to line up the clutch disk, and it just barely won't fit , when it fit before I installed it. Do you guys think that it compressed a little when I put it in? If so, what can I do ? I'm thinking of taking my Dremel tool to the inside of it and slowly grind it down till it fits. Any help you guys can give would be appreciated.

Yeah, I DID end up with a bloody knuckle situation. And of course after the blood bath insued, my mechanic told me that those types of holders are really only meant for lining up the crank and other light work. He's also only gonna use an impact wrench for loosening the bolts. I have a torque wrench Ima use to put 'em back on. Anywho. Again, thankx for all of the help guys!!!

I talked to a mechanic friend of mine and he's gonna take it off for me tomorrow. Thankx for all of the help guys! YOU'RE ALL AWESOME!!! :hail::hail::hail::hail:

It's the stock steel flywheel. BTW I'm not wanting t to fasten it to the crank, I wanna take it off. And I don't have a very big air compressor, so I'd have to get an electric one. So where could I get an impact wrench of that size to borrow?

Wouldn't that bend the bracket? I only ask cause these bolts are really stuck in there. I mean for example, I had one of those flywheel locking tools that looks like this: I had breaker bars on both the tool and the rachet plus I wired the tool to the flywheel just in case the teeth slipped. Well, there was so much pressure from both that the tool bent out of shape and is now useless. So that's why I asked about the bracket. Sorry for the long question.

I haven't tried heating them yet but I did try to use a breaker bar and hammer them. No dice with that one...