MrBlah

So, I have a 76 280z, and I need to rebuild the engine(rod knock). I will be pulling it soon, and while I am at it will be cleaning up the engine bay of dirt, grease, surface rust(if there is any), and everything else. So, my question is this: What can I remove and still be functional under the hood? More thoughts: I want to remove all AC and heat. Heater is in under the dash and leaks. Can I just close the loop by not running any hose into the cabin and having it go straight from the head back into the radiator? Or should I block off the output in the head. The spot on the head might be an input, I forget which way the loop goes. How much of the vacuum system can be done without? Especially if removing the AC/heater system? Seeing as I know it has some control some parts of it. What about those fuses? on the right side? I dont have my service manuals with me, I forget their purpose and what they actually are. Is there a way to replace them with something more modern? and smaller? Aftermarket fuel rail? I hate the ugly clutter of the current design. It's a pain to remove too. I understand a non-egr manifold may be necessary to make this part easy. The rubber the is in between the intake and the AFM. Is there a replacement for this? That isn't rubber? or something or other.

I'm rebuilding the L28 in my 1976 280z. It has a rod knock. Now, I know where to get parts and all, but my question is this: Since I have a rod knock, what other things will I have to do for the rebuild? Will it be necessary to have the crank ground? And chance I'll have to replace any connecting rods?

I've already built the engine. It's fine. Needs tuning, that's all. There is a bit of rust, and I think I understand why replacing any spot of it is necessary. Any suggestions on improving the strength of the unibody? Welding is fine, I am an experienced TIG welder, but I don't want to put a cage in it. I've already put new rear shocks in, as well as poly bushings on the rear sway bar and A-arms. I've still got to replace front shocks. I've been looking at a T5 as the transmission of choice. So, thanks for confirming my thoughts on that. Already was going to replace brake lines. I already have an R200 rear end, what half shafts and stub axles do you suggest?

Yeah, I saw that I can make the mounts myself. I have access to a cnc for free, so I think I may go that route.

Terrific! You have provided me the information I was searching for.

So, I have a 350 ready to go. I will be getting a trans here shortly(haven't decided on which to go with). Aside from those two major components, what might I be expected to pay in order to complete a swap? It's not that I care how much it will cost for extra parts or labor or what have you, but it's more of an I just kind of want to know. This swap could be done with bolt on kits or with weld on custom mounts. I haven't decided how easy I want to make it for myself. But, to give you guys a clue of where I am at now, I have the engine on a test stand, running just fine. Tuned right? lol, no. So, basically here's what I am after for cost estimates: Engine mounts; bolt on or weld in style. If I can get info on both, it would be nice. Transmission mounts Custom drive shaft cost anything else I have overlooked?

I was thinking valve seals. I know valve guides going bad is definitely a possibility. I'll spend a bit more time with the valve cover off, see what I can find.

Ok, so you guys were right, it was not a rod knock. It had consumed a LOT of oil, and the oil pump was dry. Well, currently, there is increased noise from the valve train. Yes, on every revolution. Could a valve adjustment be a good idea? or may the problem be worse than that? So, I know there are a lot of reasons for it to be consuming oil. What are the most likely reasons though? It does smoke a small bit now as well.

You ask for more? More you shall get. At first, what I heard was just a repeated knocking/rattling noise coming from somewhere around 4 or 5 cylinder, below the exhaust manifold. This turned into a rhythmic rattling that went in and out. That is, rattling/knocking that rhythmically goes in and out every few seconds. Oil pressure is a bit low, so originally I thought it might be the oil pump that was making this noise, and then it dawned on me that hey, low oil pressure can cause rod knock. So, that's as far as I've gotten. I haven't had the time to pull the oil pan and actually have a look yet. I'll be able to do that on Thursday.

So, I'm pretty sure I've diagnosed the problem with my L28 to be a rod knock. So, I'd like to know what my options are for repairing this? Budget isn't an issue here, nor is my ability to do a full on rebuild, but I would like to keep it as inexpensive as possible. I am also open to an engine swap, as I do have a complete carb'd small block Chevy at my disposal(no trans though).

Ok, so, have a problem. Here's how it went down: Start driving up the hill, hear a rattling noise from engine compartment, it gets worse as you go up to higher RPM(significantly above 2500RPM). It dies while still driving. Once I got it home, it was hard pressed to turn over with power from my Jeep, but it did go. starts again. But the rattling persists, it is cyclic(comes in and goes out every 3 seconds or so for about 3 seconds), it comes somewhere from around the #4 or 5 cylinder, but almost sounds like it originates from the exhaust manifold. It sounds A LOT like tapping on the underside of the valve cover when it occurs, but I've taken the valve cover off to inspect while the car was running and the location isn't quite right. N42 Block, P90 Heads, equal length long tube headers, stock intake. Any insights on the cause or root of the problem would be greatly appreciated.

For $2600, you could build a 600-800hp big block, or buy an LS1. If you plan on spending that much on a SBC, I would start smaller and buy a 4 bolt main block, rebuild it yourself.

You are correct! I obviously wouldn't do anything until I knew exactly what was there. Due to the timeline I have given myself to finish the car, I won't have quite enough time to do everything needed for a turbo right now. For a later project it will be! Thank you all for your insight.

After ultimately deciding to not turbo now and leave it for a later project: This is a BAE Turbo kit for 280ZX. Intake manifold, J pipe, Rajay Turbo, everything you need to upgrade your 280zx Turbo. 280ZX BAE Turbo Kit

G Force transmissions, they are aftermarket built for racing.

Beetle sold over 65 million right? The other 9, according to me: Model T, Ford Mustang, Ford Truck, Beetle, Pontiac GTO, Porsche Speedster, Toyota Corolla, All Duesenberg, Mini.

I'm a senior in Mechanical Engineering at the Colorado School of Mines. It's hard sure, but it amazes me how many people get through engineering school on the premise of only working hard. I have come across a large amount of really not very intelligent students here. Lots of students that don't know how to analyze anything or figure out how things work. Also, someone mentioned it earlier, something about algebra... CSM doesn't offer algebra. Calculus is where you are required to start. Also, I failed lots of classes. Why? Because I didn't know how to work hard my first 2 years. Technically I still don't, but I am smart enough to get As on exams so I don't do a lot of homework. Being that I am a senior, I have lots of projects. I love projects. Especially the one in my Internal Combustion Engines class, or the explosives research I am doing.

Yeah, haven't done anything to em yet. I had the same issue with the previous pair I had, the ones that were trashed. I also haven't been trying all to hard. Honestly, being an engineer, I question who's idea it was to use the style of lock washer that is used. It's damned well annoying.

So, the 1976 280z I picked up last fall has been sitting in my driveway ever since. I've only been doing interior work to it since then. Well, an opportunity has presented itself to me, so I am at least going to entertain it. So, to start, when I bought the car, it already had P90 heads on it. Should be an N42 block(I haven't gotten on my ass a looked). Info I have found tells me that P90 heads on an otherwise stock 1976 L28 motor will give me a ~7.4/1 compression ratio. First off, if someone can confirm that, it would be nice. Granted I haven't pulled the head off to have a look at the pistons. Now, said opportunity is to pick up a full aftermarket BAE turbo kit designed for a 280zx. It is a Rajay turbo that was built by BAE Turbo Systems for a 280zx, it has all the piping, accessories, and turbo manifold for a 280zx. Now, I know it should all bolt on. That's not really the issue here. I know I am a novice when it comes to forced induction. So, I guess it's a question of what all do I need to do? I know I will have more power so a clutch that can take more power will be needed, but I know the car also has a G-Force 4 speed in it, so I expect it to be able to handle the extra power. Yes I have read the write ups in the FAQ section. I think I may also need to sit and really understand what exactly is going on though.

So, I'm going to reupholster my seats in my 76 280z, or, the seats I just got since what I had were absolute trash. Ripped and destroyed seat foam. Right. Well, I've determined that removing the seat bottoms from the recliner mechanism is harder than a guy that OD'd on Viagra. That is, 1 or 2 of the screws/bolts will move. The rest will not. I know it has everything to do with the retarded lock washer that they used. And when I say it won't move, I mean vice grips will not get it to move. So... to save the screw and not strip it so I can use a screw driver to put it all back together... Any suggestions?