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Posts posted by HICKL
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That looks nasty (good). Love the Euro/muscle car look.
Thanks, it really looks mean with my wide street slicks and runners on it. Only problem is the whole sleeper thing is out the window like this. With the stock intake and hood, it is way faster than it looks, set up I this, it is slower than it looks!
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thanks guys, sorry for the lack of response, been out of town.
I have not run this motor with the tunnel ram yet. I ran my 11.5 with the old setup. Now that I have a hood on it, will 1/4 mile it first chance I get.
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I didn't want to cut up my good hood so I bought a junker and had it in primer. Finally got around to painting this one. Not perfect, but looks a lot better than flat black.
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If you haven't gotten what you are looking for, send me some details and I will see what I can do.
Jeff
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I agree with above, everytime mine breaks, I get ticked at it, but then I fix it/make it a little better and love it again. Go fast cars are always going to go thru this cycle so just ride it out!
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Seems a high to me.. Let's sat you started with a decent stock Z for around $1500, you could build a pretty sweet ride for 9K.
Just my opinion,
Jeff
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I removed the spring mechanism on my hood hinges when I was using my fiberglass cowl hood and now I want to put it back together so my hinges are spring loaded again. Only problem is I can't figure out how it went together. Anybody done this or at least have a pic of how the bars interface with the hinges so I can try and figure it out? Mine is a 76 by the way.
Thanks
Jeff
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I'm trappin 95.5 to 96 in the 1/8 but that is with cheater slicks so I am getting pretty good traction. You will be coming on hard in the big end I am sure.
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Jeff, I don't think that stroker V-8 of yours has anything to worry about from my particular L6, we do need to hit up Ennis on a street car night though.
I don't know dude, haven't dyno'd it but based on my 1/4 miles results, don't think I am putting 400hp down at the rear wheels.
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I finally got a chance to watch Phil's video, both you guys are laying down some nice power. Looks like I probably need a "power adder" on my V8 to run with you guys. 400 plus rear wheel hp from that L6 is just nasty! Phil, lovin your car, it looks sick with those flares and wheels.
Later,
Jeff
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The gearing doesn't matter, you just need to know what it is in order for the RPM to be accurate.
Think about it, rear diff affects gearing ratio. Tire size affects gearing ratio, why would the transmission need to be in a 1:1 ratio? It just makes the calculation easier, that's about it.
I see what you are saying, as long as you know the 3rd gear ratio and figure it in, it would be the same difference. The Dyno shops I have used always said to put it in whatever gear was 1 to 1 so that is what I was going on.
thanks.
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Car sounds great Chris, have not had time to watch Phil's yet. I have a question though, aren't you getting a false number by doing pulls in 3rd gear? I always thought you had to be in 4th or whatever 1 to 1 on your gearbox was to get your hp numbers. If I'm stupid, please help me.
P.S., when are we meeting at Ennis??
Hickl
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I'm down for that Jeff, I just bought some 235-50-15 BFG drag radials and some sportmax wheels for them for the turbo car, can't wait to try them out, might trailer the car in case it breaks though, I'm just a little over an hour to Ennis, but Big Phil is only like 15 minutes, the lucky dog!
Let's try and plan it (with a little advance notice) and make it happen before it get's too dang hot. I always trailer mine now if I'm running my street slicks, it's only a matter of time till I break something.
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He He..Hey JSM, judging from your signature and pics, you might want to change your driving habits...
Just kidding!!!
Hey call me a moron, but what is wrong with it? 60% of the window is still unblocked. I've not done this before but I don't see that big of an issue w/it.I see dark, dark tint much more dangerous then this. Just my .02
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Super Cool Chris! Your wife being a fellow Z fan deserves it! I wish you guys would move back to Houston. Let's all meet up at Ennis one day and see if we can break them all! I haven't 1/4 mile'd the tunnel ram on the stroker motor yet, would be a great excuse.
Jeff
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Can you isolate which end of the car the sound is coming from? I have damaged a few rear differentials and picked up some strange noises from them. Is it a consitant knock or an intermitant clunkity clunk?
Jeff
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(Quote!) As long as your not 180 degrees out!
Sorry, I mean 12 to 15 degrees before top dead center on the compression stroke on # 1 cyl.
Jon, I think that was implied in your post, I was mainly poking fun at myself for how often I make that mistake.
Jeff
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Corzette,
If your are dealing with a V-8
Take your distributor with the cap on it and mark #1 ( looking straight down on top of it # 1 will be at 5 o'clock position and the vacuum advance will point between the 8 and 9 o'clock ) Mark the cap and the distributor, now bring your motor to 12 to 15 degrees before top dead center and then install the distributor in the motor with the rotor pointing at the 5 o'clock position matching the mark on the distributor. ( you might need to take a long screwdriver and turn the oil pump shaft to get it to line up ) run your wires and tighten up your dist clamp and it should start right up.
As long as your not 180 degrees out!
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It is not in my possession, but is is supposed to be pn 4748201. They guy is telling me that it is vacuum advance only and no mechanical advance. Could this be true or does he just not know what he is talking about.
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Here it goes, I have a pretty good basic understanding of my HEI distributor as far as how the vacuum advance works as well has the mechanical. I think I understand how they work together. For my tunnel ram, I have to use a points style small dist. A guy has a Mallory Unilite for sale but says it is vacuum advance only (no mechanical advance). I can understand how mechanical advance only would work fine, but how would vacuum only work? Wouldn't it retard the timing under WOT when Vacuum went to zero? Please help the ignorant..
Thanks
Jeff
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We can keep the front end on the ground by tightening the limiters on the front end. The car is very consistent. On a normal pass the car picks the frontwheels up about 6" to 12" and is very consistent.Thanks Jerry
For us ingorant folks, please explain the "tightening the limiters" statement.
Thanks
Jeff
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first congrats on the new best time!
what carbs/intake are you currently running?
whats the rpm your going thru the lights at?
are you getting a good 60 ft time?
is that 118 mph trap speed consistant?
whats the car weight with YOU in it?
Perfomer RPM, holley double pumper.
I am grabbing 4th right at the end, not sure of rpm
60's are in the 1.62 to 1.68 range.
did 2 118mph's in a row, in the summer 117 was my best.
can't remember exact weight, seems like just under 2900 lbs.
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I did the Import face off at Houston Raceway park this sunday and knocked a few my tenths off my best time. I squeezed out a 11.516 at 118.41 mph(prior best was 11.72ish). I hadn't turned a wrench on the car since my 11.72, but it was about 35 degrees colder yesterday, I guess the car liked it. I think that's about all she's got, may be time for NOS...
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No, T5's don't have synchros on reverse.
Finally painted my tunnel ram hood.
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
I like the way you think. That is actually my dream. This motor has too much compression so my plan is if/when I blow this one up, will try to budget a blower motor.