HICKL

I have it! Only problem is it cant read side to side angles which I have as well. Guess I could always lay my car over on its side! LOL.

Cool, it sounds like we were building these cars at about the same time.. Well I guess that answers my question as I expected, just going to have to "create" some clearance. Am mad at myself because when I did my mockup with the new trans, I put it in but just raised the tail section with a jack and thought I was up as high as it needed to go and my alignment was fine. I took it back out and finished up some other things and then when I put it back in (all the way in), I realized the issue. Thanks guys. I know what I gotta do!

So many questions I should have answered up front. My bad. JTR mounts so yes, offset to passenger side. R200 diff but using the Ron Tyler mount. I have the 2002 edition of the jtr manual and dont recall it mentioning denting the tunnel, but it may... or that may have been in a later release.

Hey Zed, yes I feel like I have a good understanding of the parallel but not straight line. I normally shoot for 3 degrees . My issue is that I like to get the left to right alignment straight, then use my "up and down" to get the desired offset. The math gets deep when dealing with offsets up and down and side to side. At least for me anyway.

So after about 15 years of shifting gears with my T5, my knees and my brain got tired of it so I converted over to a 700r4. Well actually a 4l60e but that is probably besides the point for my question. Its all together and working fine, but I am un-happy with my driveshaft angles. I know of countless ways I can adjust for my up and down to get the proper alignment, but I am all the way to the passenger side with my transmission to the point that I am hitting the tunnel, and looking from underneath, I need to move further in that direction to get a straight line from the diff to the rear of trans. My cross member is slotted so I can move it, but I am hitting the tunnel before I get to where I think I need to be. Is this common to have to "adjust" the tunnel quite a bit for this trans or am I missing something stupid.. And yes, I did a fair amount of searching and did not find the answer, but that does not mean its not there... I just didnt find it.. Oh, just realized my signature no longer has what it used to have so.. 1976 280z, SBC stroker motor. Thanks Jeff

Ditto all of the above. Chickenman helped me as well and has profound knowledge of all things that matter in our world..

I am probably a little late here but I am converting my car to auto so am about to pull my T5 and sell EVERYTHING related to the manual. From the tranny to the bellhousing to the clutch to the flywheel to the slave and master etc. Mine is a G-force built world class so it may be more than you need from a hp rating stand point. If you are still fishing around for parts or anything let me know. Jeff

my story had been told on here and I have had much help from members so again...Thanks! Will re-cap but keep it short. I inhereted a non running 82 280zxt with MS3 that had previously been on the road and then died. I am old school, but am learning this tuner stuff as fast as I can. Anyway, have had the car running for a while (thanks again) but have had some various issues so it now has me questioning my spark advance table. I did not build this table, it was given to me amongst all the data I got with the car so I don't know its origin. I have compared it to a few others I have found on line and it looks quite different. Can someone with a similiar setup compare to what theirs looks like an tell me if this table looks reasonably close? The values seem high to me based on what I have read and somewhat backwards in some ways as well... I attached a pic of the table as well as the ign settings. I expect there are more questions that I will need to answer to get help so feel free to ask them and I will answer to the best of my ability. Thanks Jeff

Did you get your bell housing? I have a SBC T5 bellhousing that I just replaced with a blowproof so I no longer need it. Not sure if this is what you are looking for since you specified "turbo t5 bellhousing".. Let me know, Thanks Jeff

Pulled tranny and found the problem. My centerforce II clutch failed. All the friction pads from one side are gone! Not worn off, just gone.... Contacting them now to see if can get some help as I expect it should not have done that... While I have it all apart, I may convert to an Automatic. Anybody interested in G-force T5?

I am considering swapping to an automatic and if so would be looking to sell my G-force T5. I have not decided what I would be asking for it, looks like new ones are up around $3500. If you are interested or needing one to handle lots of HP, let me know and I will figure out what its worth to me. Still on the fence about the swap so trying to work the numbers!

I do, I will take a look at that and see. Will come back when I have done so. Thanks!

Its an innovate digital db series wideband.

I have a different thread on here for a different issue but that has been resolved (thanks everybody) so started a new one for a much less severe issue. I have an 81 zxt running MS3 and an innovate O2 sensor. Car seems to run pretty good but was curious about some finer tuning so hooked up a digital AFM gage. Driving down the highway at steady throttle/cruise, my readout is all over the place from 12 to 14, so much so that I really have to guess to determine the average. The car is running smooth etc so all would seem fine but my gage is telling me my fuel mixture is all over the place. I am an old school mechanic, but am pretty green to this tuner world where computers are in control instead of a carburetor. I cant imagine this much fluctuation is normal...is it? If not, would be open to any clues as to where to look to get it settled down. Thanks Jeff

I remember it is a centerforce clutch, but that's all I can tell you. Has been a long time since I did all that. I tightened up the linkage and it had no effect. regarding the 7/8" of travel, is that measured a the bell housing or at the slave?

Camaro slave, not Clamato slave...stupid auto correct.

So my build is about ten years old so have forgotten more about it than I care to admit. I started noticing it was starting to get hard to run thru the gears. It worked, just found I had to be deliberate about my shifts. It finally failed all together and would not let me shift at all. Pedal seemed a little soft, but not to the point of total failure. I assumed issue was in hydraulics so went after that. Bleed the system, removed, disassembled and inspected the slave cylinder, replaced the master, re did some of my connections and still no go. (Using Clamato slave, f250 master and steel braided line. I can see the slave working and pushing the arm, but don't know if it is pushing it far enough. Can someone with similar setup or knowledge tell me approx how far the slave should be pushing the fork. I honestly never looked when it worked to have a visual ref of how far it needs to extend. If not a hydraulic issue, any ideas as to what it is before I drop the trans? Again, was a gradual failure, not instant carnage or breakage, Thanks guys Jeff

Thanks! I owe a LOT of the credit to Matt Cramer at Diyautotune. Was very helpful!

Follow up, finally got it to fire up yesterday. Not running good yet, but is running. I found that my bip373 had shorted out between the metal tab and the ms3 box. It had all the right plastic and insulators in place, but it had continuity between the tab and the bar it screws to. I could barely back off on the screw and the short went away. Now I just have to get it tuned, idles really rough and is rich as heck! But it starts!

Metro, I just realized I attached a data log file and thats not what you asked for. Lets try this again. 2016-03-04_15.41.38.zip

oops, trying to attach file again.. 2016-02-29_10.50.18.zip

Ya, I understand the circuit has to break for the coil to fire. I did remove the tach wire last night just in case that was giving a ground path. I did bypass that relay one time with a direct 12v jumper just to see if it did anything. It did not. Here is a file of just me briefly cranking it over..I also have the data log of when it died. Will upload that as well if helpful.

Just confirmed, it is a 54mm wheel.

I'll have to check on that trigger wheel...that the information I was given. Am curious Chickenman about your advice on the grounding. From other articles I read as well as wiring diagrahms, I understood it as they want the MS3 firmly grounded to the block but all the sensors to be grounded back thru the MS3 box, not to the block. That is how mine is wired and it seemed odd to me, but seemed to be consistent with the instructions. I do have some concerns on my +12V feeds. It looks like they are all pulling from the same relay (its over by the battery, I assume its the original ignition relay but have not confirmed that) anyway, the voltage seems to be a little low coming out of that relay (10.5-11.5, fluctuates a little). Based on the fact that the MS3 was reading rpm's, I took that as telling me the dizzy was working properly. Is that not a sound assumption? Thanks again guys for all your input. This is uncharted territory for me so stumbling thru it as well as I can!

Hey metro, just checked with test light. As soon as I turn the key on, the light comes on and stays on steady while cranking. Duplicated the test with an analog test meter checking continuity from negative wire to ground. As soon as ignition is on, I have continuity to ground and does not fluctuate when engine is cranking. I guess bottom line is ms3 is getting signal from dizzy, but not sending to coil... Brad man, see my original post for dizzy setup, if you need more info let me know. From what I understand, stock igniter no longer exists.