zbigtim

Thanks for the replys, guys. I will be getting the stuff to tap and relocate the PCV, probably in the heat shield boss like aarang suggested. Pyro, that is a very interesting idea on running the intercooler piping under the pan. But for right now the budget does not allow an intercooler. Maybe later this summer. I will definitely keep this in mind. I was able to trim the mouning bracket on the WG actuator and get it mounted tonight. I will post pictures later.

I have seen that before, but wasn't sure if there were some other benifits to venting to the intake. I had to look up Dothan AL. I was born in Decatur and lived in Albertville for a while. But Dothan is far far away. (I digress). Thank you.

After collecting parts all winter and just got my P90 back from the machine shop, I was mocking up my intake, exhaust, and turbo this weekend. Running into a couple of problems. One: I believe the PCV valve is going to be in the way of the compressor housing, depending on how I clock the housing. Two: I was wanting to use the stock wastegate actuator for now, but don't have any good ideas on how to mount it on the larger T4 compressor housing. I want to thank all the guys here on the Hybrid Z site for all of there hard work and sharing there of. This site is truly awesome, and I would not be to this stage without it. Any ideas with these problems (which I think are minor) would be appreciated. Thank you in advance!

It looks like the one on the left is designed to work with a manualy adjusted slave cylinder w/ a return spring. Is there a difference in the length from the pivot point? Tim.

Yes, thank you, I am doing a turbo build. I will check out the SI valves.

Just a quick question. I'm planning on sending my used P90 head to the local machine shop w/ the valves out of my N47 head. Will they work? It seems like I read somewhere that the valve stems were longer on the N47. Is that right?

Thank you, that is what I'll try. I think you're right. There was some side to side play in the T3, before I disassembled. Do you think that the bearings in the center section is what wears, or do I need to worry about the shaft. I will mic the shaft today and compare to the newer T4 shaft. Yes, you can see on the backside of the compressor wheel where it was balanced, and I will definitely use a new nut. As a note; the T4 shaft has a left hand thread, and looking at the rotation of the shaft, this makes sense. Anybody have issues with the nut loosening on the T3?

I see that now... Sorry, my bad!

You can't use a continuity checker for voltage. You will need a volt meter or a voltage test light...

I have disassembled both turbos and are comparing the parts. It looks like I need to take the exhaust turbine off the T3 shaft and install it on the new T4 shaft. The T4 shaft has a longer thread (left handed thread) than the T3 on the compressor side. Is this something I can do in my own garage? What about balancing the assembly?

Would I not want to use the T3 wheel and shield. The T4 is not going to fit inside the T3 exhaust housing, will it?

Thanks for you reply's, guys. That really makes me feel a lot better...

Well, I found a complete stock T3 turbo on ebay last week and received it last night. Today I disassembled it to install the exhaust housing and turbine on my T04B. Much to my dismay, I found a crack in the T3 exhaust housing. I'm really bummed and I guess still looking for a T3 exhaust housing. BTW how do I remove the exhaust turbine. I was able to remove the compressor wheel nut. I don't want to be too aggressive in fear of bending something. Tim.

Okay, I have taken measurements with a caliper. The inducer measured at 1.877" and the exducer 2.758". Which points me to the s-trim, I believe. Thanks Letitsnow!

Thank you guys for all the responses. I'm going to try and get some more accurate measurements, and go from there... Tim.

Can anyone tell me what compressor side I have? Will it work well with the L28? If so, are there what size turbine wheel should I be looking for? I would like to run 15lbs boost, with the compressor efficiency peak at about 3000 rpm, for good street use. Maybe I'm asking too many questions, and some of you may ask me to search before I ask the questions. I have done some searching, but I'm still a bit confused, and quite frankly the math in the Corky Bell book makes my head spin. Thanks...

My fancy, high end, plywood is 3/4" thick. From what I found by searching, this is what I found everyone using (I'm talking about the thickness, not the material). My buddy that works for Chrysler is bringing me a piece of 3/4" nylon. You guys don't think it will melt do ya?

With a front view of the linkage you can see how angled the linkage is at full throttle. Here it is closed. I think if you are talking about these dimples, you may cut thru to the injector mounting holes.

Thanks cygnusx1, I can appreciate the jab! I think if I were to shorten and rethread the throttle shaft, the linkage would be in better mechanical alignment. And yes I want to replace the ball joints because of looks.

Has anyone ever used something like this to replace those ugly, yellowed, plastic ball joints? 15734 - JEGS Carburetor Linkage Bushings and Swivels

Yes, I was going to ask about the linkage, until I was putting together this post. I stumbled across the answer on that site. Tim.

I just completed the porting of my intake for the 240sx 60mm TB. Thought I would share some pictures. I'm not sure where I found this web site, but it has a good write up on how to go about the porting. http://www.graytechsoftware.com/garage/tbs_inst_port.asp I used a rotary file Used the 240SX TB Gasket to mark the area Here I'm about half way Comparison of before and after I still need to work on the throttle linkage. Need to shorten and re-thread the throttle shaft. Thanks for looking... Tim.

Well, I took the turbo apart and here is what I found: The compressor side dimensions, The outside diameter of the compressor wheel is 2 3/4". The inlet diameter (2 3/4" OD - 2 3/8" ID which cones down to 1 3/4") The outlet diameter (2" OD) Look what I found on the inside of the compressor outlet. The exhaust wheel is 2 3/4" in diameter and 1 3/16" deep.

Sorry for the delay, guys. I will be disassembling the compressor this evening and taking measurements as letitsnow suggested. Tim.