zbigtim

I used the circuit that was posted in the thread HizAndHerz mentioned. http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=168280 It seems to work very well. I built it on my breadboard first and used the stim to test on a spare tach. It worked perfectly. I then built the circuit on a "Prototyping Circuit Board" from Jameco, much like P/N 105152. In fact I bought all of the components from Jameco, they are by far cheaper than Digi-Key or Mouser. I mounted the circuit in the dashboard where my PIP and SAW wire runs along the dash harness, but seperated by an inch or so. The circuit shown in the above thread indicates the 921 could be used. I had the following pic from one of the threads. I couldn't find where I got the pic by the time I went to build it. So I don't know where the credit is due. I think Z-ya has a good idea too. It actually seems to be a "cleaner" setup. Tim

Garry, http://www.speedhut.com/el_dial_products.asp Use this link. I think it will direct you to the speedhut page that shows the Datsun Kits. These are for the 70-75, years with the ammeter. There are two kits on that has the 0-160 speedometer and the other with the 10-160 speedometer. Then all you have to do is use there online simulator to pick your colors and fonts... Tim

Hey!, It's nice to here from someone "in the neighborhood". I'd love to help out, but as you can see in my first post in this thread, it took me 6 months to get my own done! But by all means if you want to hook up sometime and trade ideas and whatnot. I plan to be at the hooters and/or bommerito show. Also meeting up with another Z buddy that lives in O'fallon MO at the bommerito. PM me if you want to trade phone #'s... Tim

I bought a set of floors with the floor rails from Charlie Osborne last year for $319.00 which included shipping. They are a realy nice quality. I think they are refered to as the "Z floor system". Tim

I understand your concern, for what its worth, the holes ended up deep in the v-groove, I don't think the belt even rides that low in the 'v'. The screws are a 5mm X 16mm and using a lock washer the screw came almost to the v groove. If I didn't have the lock washer, the screw would go thru to the v groove.

I drilled and tapped the damper, Drilled the four holes in the escort wheel. It seems like I read in one of the threads that the taurus, not sure what years, would bolt on directly. I got the escort wheel thinking I would machine the back of the damper and press fit it. But when I got the wheel and started looking at things, I just didn't think there was enough room. If you can see in the wheel pictures there are four marks where the screws are. That was the first thing I did. I used a wooden dowel that fit the inside bore of the damper. Clamped the dowel in the drill vise. Placed the damper on the dowel. Then I clamped the wheel on top of the damper with two very small 'c' clamps. I chucked a small drill bit in the drill and ran the bit down next to the teeth, and turned the wheel on the dowel. This way I could check for wheel center. Once the wheel was centered I drilled the four holes with the drill fixed in one position. When I was ready to drill the next hole, I simply turned the damper on the dowel and drilled the next hole. The holes did go all the way through in to the 'v' groove for the A/C belt. So I used a small round file to debur. Make sure you use screw short enough not to penetrate the 'v' groove. Tim

Ah yes, The difference between absolute pressure and guage pressure! Very much the same as the difference between PSIA and PSIG. 0 psig (guage pressure) = 14.7 psia (absolute)

Bryan, I never paid attention to this until your post. I just installed my MSII v30. and it appears I have the same symptoms you do. I just checked my vacuum with a gauge at idle. It read 18.5 inHg. If I convert that to kpa it equals 62.5. The Megatune 2.2 shows 35kpa. I have not looked into the .inc files yet. Maybe someone can shed some light on this "problem". Tim

Hey Guys, The dashes are looking great. New to this thread, but here is a pic from my EL Glow from Speedhut. There realy is nothing out there as far as overlays is concerned. The templates they have on the web only include the ammeter. I sent pictures of my voltmeter/fuel and they made mine custom. Thanks for looking, Tim

Alright, I feel I'm getting better at this. A couple more tries, I think I'll have it! Here is the routing of the plug wires. These are Accel wires from Advance Auto Parts that I cut and crimped. Not sure if I like how they layed out on the firewall. If nothing else, I definetly need some better wire clips. Here we can see the top of the toothed wheel, the dist. hole cover, the MAT placed in the intake boot, and the 240sx TPS on its adapter plate. I do have the Throttle Body from the 240sx also, I still need to make the extension plate. This will be done at a later date because I want to "shape" the opening in the manifold opening to match the larger TB. I thought this was a pretty cool shot of the dash. Not to stray from the MS forum, you can see the MS in the lower left corner. The Gauge Overlays were purchased from Speedhut. The two template designs they advertise on the website have the ammeter only. I sent a photo of the voltmeter and they custom made the overlay. The whole kit including shipping, around $100. Again, Sorry for the mistakes... Tim

Sorry, Newbie mistake I guess. Lets try this again... The MSII mounted and wired in the stock location. I can still install the plastic kick panel when (if ever) i'm done tuning. In this photo you can see the fuseable link upgrade. The fuse blocks, two, were purchased from Walmart for $10 each. Next to that you can see the EDIS-6 wireing sneeking into the relay box. On the battery are the stock power wires for the ECU. And, on the right is the Caravan Coil Pack mounted on the firewall. Above are two photos of the wheel. I used another L28 I have on a stand in my garage for the mock up. Using the aluminum A/C bracket from a '81 ZX, which has two threaded holes on the front. I was able to make a "hat" style bracket for the VR sensor. This photo was taken with the engine at TDC. More to come..

Okay, Got my pictures... Please keep in mind, I've only had this Z for about a year. There is a lot of work to be done to "clean up" under the hood. Even some of the things like the MAT sensor and the TPS were done in a temporay fashon until I have more time. The weather is nice here in St. Louis and I'm dying to get out and drive the Z. Its been a long 6 months of a Z in pieces. The MSII mounted and wired in the stock location. I can still install the plastic kick panel when (if ever) i'm done tuning. In this photo you can see the fuseable link upgrade. The fuse blocks, two, were purchased from Walmart for $10 each. Next to that you can see the EDIS-6 wireing sneeking into the relay box. On the battery are the stock power wires for the ECU. And, on the right is the Caravan Coil Pack mounted on the firewall. Here is the routing of the plug wires. These are Accel wires from Advance Auto Parts that I cut and crimped. Not sure if I like how they layed out on the firewall. If nothing else, I definetly need some better wire clips. Here we can see the top of the toothed wheel, the dist. hole cover, the MAT placed in the intake boot, and the 240sx TPS on its adapter plate. I do have the Throttle Body from the 240sx also, I still need to make the extension plate. This will be done at a later date because I want to "shape" the opening in the manifold opening to match the larger TB. Above are two photos of the wheel. I used another L28 I have on a stand in my garage for the mock up. Using the aluminum A/C bracket from a '81 ZX, which has two threaded holes on the front. I was able to make a "hat" style bracket for the VR sensor. This photo was taken with the engine at TDC. I thought this was a pretty cool shot of the dash. Not to stray from the MS forum, you can see the MS in the lower left corner. The Gauge Overlays were purchased from Speedhut. The two template designs they advertise on the website have the ammeter only. I sent a photo of the voltmeter and they custom made the overlay. The whole kit including shipping, around $100. Thanks for looking... Tim

Thanks for the replys. I just got back from the lake, I need to resize some pics tonight and post them. Paul, your pictures and write-ups in the V3 Edis thread were awsome! HizAndHerz tonights pictures will include the wheel. I did try the maps in the following link already: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113860 I believe the spark advance is just way too aggresive, but it does work. Thanks again guys... Tim

Hey Guys, I'm a long time reader, first time post. I wanted to share some of my experience installing my MSII. First I want to thank HybridZ and everyone posting here. I couldn't have done without. I will try to get you guys some pictures, I have a dial up connection and uploading pics is painful at best. I started this project the week of Thanksgiving '06, just got the car started yesterday at lunchtime. I know there are claims it can be done in a weekend, and I'm sure it can, but not for first timers. Between working, house chores, two kids, etc. I had to find an hour here and there. The car is a '76 280z bone stock, till now. I bought the MSII kit from DIY and built it myself. Installed the ECU in the stock location using the factory EFI harness. I removed the stock "dual relay" that controlled the fuel pump and installed two individual relays, one to feed the injectors (using the stock resistor packs) and one to feed the fuel pump. Using the TPS sensor out of a 240sx, I had to fabricate an adaptor plate so it would mount on the stock TB. The only other sensor that is not stock is the MAT sensor. I put it in the rubber boot just ahead of the TB. ('78 boot, I think). As for the EDIS setup, I used the 36-1 wheel from an Escort and the EDIS-6 module from an Explorer and a coil pack from a Dodge Caravan. It was a good day at the u-pull-it yard. I mounted the tooth wheel on the front of the damper using four M5 bolts w/ lock washers. I did it this way because I still want to use the air conditioner. The EDIS-6 is under the engine relay box, and coil pack on the passanger side firewall. When I got the MS powered up, I was able to cal the temp. sensors and the TPS, (Very easy). Using all default values except for the EDIS settings, I tried to start the engine. The engine would crank, but I had no RPM signal. After double checking all of the EDIS wiring and putting the stimulator on the MS, I could find nothing wrong. By the way the stim dumped a lot of fuel into the non-running engine. I remember reading in one of the post someone inverting the VR sensor wireing. I'm guessing the wire colors are reverse from the Escort VR and the Explorer EDIS-6. Because after inverting the VR wires the engine started immediately, and ran well, (Yeh!). I let the engine run a while, as I the engine temp was getting close to 160 deg. F, There was SMOKE! Quick get the laptop out of the car!, grap the fire extinguisher! The smoke was comming out of the defroster vents. Under closer inspection, this "smoke" was condensing on the inside of the windshield. It turned out to be a heater hose leak (whew!). After a two hour adventure on my head, under the dash, the leak was fixed and ready to try again. My next move is to purchase a good timing light and a wideband O2 from DIY. My tuning need serious help. Does anyone have some good VE and Spark Maps for a bone stock L28? Thanks for reading...