zbigtim

Do you need these still? I may have both. I could rummage through my shed tomorrow after work. -Tim

Thanks Cygnusx1. Yea, the 55s looked too tall. Now I'm just hoping that the tire will not be too wide. But it seems, a lot of guys are running the 50s.

I've talked with the tire shop. They are exchanging the tires for me. All I have to pay is a discounted mount and balance fee ($40). Man!, what a dumb mistake.

Got my tires mounted on the new wheels. Here are the pics. I screwed up though. I slipped and ordered 225/55R16s instead of 225/50R16!

Received my wheels the other night. THEY LOOK AWESOME! Silly me, I thought "Royal Hyper Black" would be black. The color is actually silver/grey, depending on the lighting. Direct light they look more silver. I like them anyway. Now I need to sell my Eagles to generate the funds to put some rubber on these bad boys.

I have no news yet. But I am close. Recently I have pulled my injector rail, sold it, and am buildig a new one with 440cc injectors. Pulled the tranny because of a massive oil leak in the bell housing. I just received my new wheels (Rota RB-R, 16X8). So, hopefully in the next week or so, my car will be back together, able to test the speedo. I will absolutly post my findings.

I just got a reply from 18racing saying they are out of the +4 but have a set of +10. They claim I will have better clearance on the fender lip with the +10 which I understand. But, I've heard bad things about using wheel spacers. DeLorean, what is the thickness of your spacer, and is this only in the front, or all around? I've decided to use the 225/50R16 as well. I have no problem with rolling the fender. Thanks for the replies, guys.

Well, Its done! I placed the order last night with 18racing.com. Based on everything I read and measured, these should fit.

Did some more searching, found this in the "Wheel Show!" Thread.

I should also mention my Z has the stock suspension and stock wheel wells. I plan on using lowering springs in the future for what I think is a 1" drop. The wheels in my sig pic are Eagle Alloys 028 series, 15 X 7 w/ P205/55R15. Using no wheel spacers, they fit nicely.

Been watching the group buy on the ROTA RBs. I know the buy is for the 17", but I'm ready to get a set of 16X8s. By everything I've read, searched, and measured. It looks like the 16X8 +4 wheel w/ 225/50R16 or 245/45R16 will fit. I think the closet clearance issue is the backspace on the front (2mm). Before I make a mistake, can anyone verify these will fit?

Subscribed. Been thinking about this for a while. I have collected a bunch of factory air parts from the 2+2s, but I don't like the idea of the a/c only on the face vents.

I have a 3.364 ratio R180 from my 260z parts car. Obviously not exactly what your asking for. -Tim

Thats interesting Xnke, I'm not sure I've ever seen a black one. I have a red and yellow one, and the electronic one I pulled from the 240sx was red also. I'm sorry, I haven't posted any results. Truth is, the car is now off the jacks w/ 5-speed installed but I havn't wired the speedo up yet. I hope to do that this week. Did have some fun today at the local Z-Car show put on by the Gateway Z Club. Thanks, -Tim

If you guys without AutoCAD would like a PDF, here it is. This is the one drawing from the .zip file that I could open. The other one does not seem to be compatable with my AutoCAD 2002 LT. ZCON Model (1).pdf

Sorry, been out for a while! I just installed the rebuilt 5-Speed today. Still need to finish up all the loose ends. But, the 240SX sensor installed just fine, and it has a red, 20-tooth cog just like the mechanical one that came out of the 4-speed that I was using. On the surface this seems like good news, but thats only if the maxima has the same final ratio and tire height as my Z. My Z has the stock rear end for '76 as far as I know. And, correct me if I'm wrong, I think it is a R200 with a 3.545 ratio.

Well, I'm not sure what I'm going to need yet. I have not actually installed this setup in the car yet. I just got my car back from state inspection, and I have the 4-speed out, installing a freshly rebuilt 5-speed. I plan on doing some temporary wiring for the speedo to see what cog I will need. To do the conversion right, I'm going to remove the dash to install the wiring from the megasqirt for the tach. I also need to route the speedo sensor wiring from the tranny through the firewall, and up to the dash harness. This will all be much easier with the dash out. All that being said, it will probably be a few weeks before I get to that point. I will certainly keep posting my progress. Thanks for all your input guys... -Tim

Well, I did the time trial tonight and the results were not what I wanted. I chucked the speed sensor in the drill press so I would have a consistent speed, as opposed to the cordless. With bits 4 and 5 on (7 is still removed), I ran the drill, speed showing 116.5 MPH, for one minute. At this speed for one minute, the odometer should have registered 1.94 miles, but it only registered 1.7, which is a 12.4% error. So I believe that confirms what JBrant said, that the adjustments only affect the speedometer and not the odometer. At this point, if I still want to use the Maxima speedometer, I will need the dakota converter box or build my own. Now that I have my car back from the shop (state safety inspection), I think I will install the sensor and see how far off the speedometer really is.

Thanks Alonso. I think I found what you were talking about. I have confirmed some of this. The maxima speedo had 4,5,&7 bits "on". I ran the speedo again with the drill, reading 49 mph. When I removed the solder on bit #7 the speed indication increased to 56mph, which is approx a 12.5% increase. According to the post from JBrant on 240SXFORUMS this adjustment only works on the speed indication and not the odometer. I will try some time trials hopefully tomorrow to confirm this. Hopefully this is not the case. http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/do-yourself-section/130489-240sx-speedometer-error-s14-s13-speed-sensor-reads-double.html -Tim

I have no idea what the maxima gauge is going to read. I have not had it in the car yet. I can only assume it will be off because of the mismatch of parts. The universal converter is about $80 from Dakota Digital, which yes, defeats the purpose of using the junkyard gauges. I am going to experiment with the "adj" solder pads. I assume it is a binary coded multiplier. Im going to set my fluke meter on the sensor and read the freq. and compare to the speed reading. Then change the adj setting and repeat, till I figure out the math. Thank you for the replys! -Tim

I've been looking for an inexpensive way to install modern, electronic Speedometer and Tachometer. Right now I have the stock gauges with the speedhut EL Glow Overlays, which looks awesome (in my opinion) but the speedo reads 10 mph low and the tach does not work sometimes under 1200 rpm, and is off by about 200 rpm according to megasquirt. So, browsing through the local pick 'n' pull I decided to give the '95 Maxima Gauges a try. $20 got me the entire gauge cluster. I had to trim the corners of the gauges to fit in the original "cups". A dremel tool made quick work of this. I'm not quite done with the assembly yet, but well on my way. After researching with the Maxima Factory Service Manual, I believe that the tachometer will work with no problem on the megasquirt Tach Out. But, the speedometer scaling is my next biggest hurdle. I have connected a speed sensor from a 5-speed 240SX (which fits the stock 4 and 5 speed transmissions) and tested the speedometer with a power supply and a drill. It works fine. Back to the scaling. Does anybody know if the frequency to speed ratio can be changed with the "adj" points on the speedometer circuit board? Please look at the next pic in the red circle. Or will I need some kind of signal condition circuit in between the speed sensor and speedometer (frequency to frequency conversion)? -Tim

Thank you Nigel!

I'm running the stock fuel pressure regulator after recently converting from N/A to turbo. I understand that the vacuum port on the FPR maintains a constant pressure differential between the intake and fuel rail. But, will the stock FPR continue to raise the fuel pressure above atmosphere (boost)? Do I need an aftermarket FPR designed for boost applications? I have searched this forum and also the msefi forum, but still cannot find the answer. BTW: Special thanks to this forum and especially letitsnow for helping me with my turbo project.