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Everything posted by shuttlefever
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Hey all, I know there's a few members that live in the pacific northwest and I hope there is a few members that are familiar with SCCA rules. I am building my ZX to do some autocrossing and maybe a track day or two... At this point I am budget snug so obviously I have to be frugal with my purchases. I am looking at using a harness bar for my race harness. I have raced with the Bremerton Sports Car Club numerous times with different cars and harness bars have never been an issue. However I am hoping to get to some SCCA sanctioned events with this car, (maybe packwood etc..) So I want to make sure i wont be in for any surprises during tech. Anyone familiar with how SCCA feels about harness bars?
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hey all. i have done some looking around on here for some answers but have not had much luck. i am trying to find out the length of throw that our cars have from the slave cylinder. i am considering using my Richmond. t10 trans behind my small block chevy in my z. i can fab a bracket for the slave but need to know if i am going to have to try and get creative with master to slave ratios to make the throw. anyone have any experiences with this sort of thing?
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I have had excellent luck with small block chevies. I have used and abused them the same way as purepontiackid. nothing against the Nissan 6, the sbc is just way more familiar to me and I think cheaper and easier to build horsepower from. just my opinion. any swap I do would not happen for quite a while. cash flow being what it is will be cause for gaining familiarity with the 6 and the 5 speed. for now I am just looking at options.
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i am actually looking at this as a autocross / track day/ street toy. it may see drags too but not regularly. after reading some i am having thoughts of a t56 or in an extreme maybe an Automatic. good to know that the balance isn't too badly effected. D~
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i actually have another option. i have another engine and transmission that may end up in there. i have a well built small block chevy and a Richmond t10. i am kinda leaning that way eventually but it will be a ways off. i plan to use aluminum heads instead of my old school steel heads for a little weight loss and modernization. my only concern is the weight difference. i know there is a bit of difference. not really sure what that will do to the balance. the plus side is i know the trans is light and i know its tough. thoughts???
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I think the main reason for the thought of the t5 is the abundance of cheap units available. I have no plans to run a gazzillion horsepower. I would use the transmission that is in the car if someone could tell me how to smooth up the shifts, I tinkered a little with the throw of the shifter, trying to shorten it a bit, but that isnt that important to me if i could just get to third gear without having so much hesitation and hunting. I have read that the stock 5 speed is fairly durable, so my main concern is just smoothing things up. Any suggestions?? and if anyone has managed to shorten the shift throw some, i would be interested in knowing how. I monkeyed with the length of the fulcrum below the pivot. I like the length of the shifter so the easy cheat of hacking the length of the upper isnt an option.
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i am finally at a point in my car build that i am ready to show some pics! i have a 79 2+2. i traded my 89 Honda crx for it and feel like i did all right on the trade. of course i did occasionally have traders remourse since i traded away my autocross car. but i really enjoy the build of the project so no big deal. i started by super cleaning the car and trying to get the heavy smoker smell from the car. the headliner was drooping so i tackled it first. then i started noticing the rust poping through on the lower doors and front fenders. and the crushed rails under the floors... and the horribly heat checked paint and dents in the fenders from the last engine swap. so... i attacked. cut out and repaired the rust in the doors and fenders, removed and welded closed the holes from the body trim and emblems. and re constructed the floor support rails. during the bodywork phase i got creative and added a small tail to the rear and a splitter to the front. all steel and welded up. here's a couple pics of where it was when i got it, where i went with it, and where it is now. next is suspension work to get it autocross worthy and some good tires and wheels. i also have a mega squirt set up ready to go in. the engine is from an 83. i am also considering a t5 swap in for a smoother, faster shift. btw, this forum is a great resource!!!
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Hey all, been away from the forum for a while. Almost done with paint on my car! So here is a question for you s130 veterans. What other Nissan (or any other car really) has anti sway bars that might work on the zx? maxima ?? I am working with a squeaky tight budget so that is my motivation for this topic. If i have to i will wait til i can generate enough cash for aftermarket bars. But in the mean time... And the same question applies to springs. Thanks!!!
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Sounds good. I will do some tinkering and see if i can get them apart damage free
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No luck on craigslist so far. Here's a thought. Mine are off my 79 2+2. Nothing special but i think they are in good shape. ( gotta dig em out tomorrow and check) will they be destroyed in the process of using them for tooling?? If no, and if they are decent, my car is quite a ways away from re assembly. I would be happy to loan em out to you for a small discount on a pair of clears!! Any suggestions on how to remove the lenses from the rest of the housing without killing them? D~
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well maybe i didn't word my question correctly, (i do that when i am being sneaky looking at this forum while i am supposed to be working!!!) So i see that there are slight differences in height, which doesnt really concern me, my main concern is that the aftermarket offerings for suspension is kinda weak for our cars. Fortunately I am comfortable with adapting and fabricating. I am just wondering if it will be worth the effort. Tokico struts are not the best but they are nothing to skoff at either. Does converting to S 13 stuff give a few more options? I have been playing with cars most of my life (which is quite a while) including being a professional mechanic for my first career. However, this is my first Z car and I am still soaking up lots of info!! Bear with me folks!! D~
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This may be a goofy question, are the shock/ strut options better for the s13/s14? And are they a cartridge style like our cars are? What's the major differences???
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I used to be a certified tester in nor cal. If they are only doing static testing just do a basic tune check. Check your timing, check egr function, run good gas and be sure the car is at normal operating temp. If it does fail and is running well, it could actually have a fouled catalytic converter. But if testing is free, just take it in and get it tested. If it fails bring your test report home and post your results here. I am confident that with all the knowledgeable mechanics on these forums, you will have no problem chasing the problem down quickly! D~
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I will keep my eyes peeled for a nice pair of tail lenses. Craigs list is good here sometimes
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Count me in for front turn signal lenses and maybe tail lights! I am excited to see tail lights!!!
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Great shot pontiac !!!!! So bitchin
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Have heard the braille batteries are great but on a daily driver might not be so great. Something about not a lot of reserve for start up... And they are pretty spendy. But seriously light!! And small. Anyone else heard about any issues?? I think grassroots motorsports magazine did a write up a few months ago. Do your research before stepping up!!
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Have heard the braille batteries are great but on a daily driver might not be so great. Something about not a lot of reserve for start up... And they are pretty spendy. But seriously light!! And small. Anyone else heard about any issues?? I think grassroots motorsports magazine did a write up a few months ago. Do your research before stepping up!!
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hmm i like the idea of dropping the weight down lower. I might use a smaller battery also. I dont have the budget for a high end light weight one, but the battery that was in my honda crx i used to have was a lot smaller. Keep in mind my car is a 2+2. Is the weight as balanced in these cars?? Rebeckasz, the battery box you are running is a good one for street only applications, however if i run at any track day events, or drags, they frown on those (at least around here). I have seen a couple of setups where a separate compartment was fabricated and that was legal. I am pretty sure i am going to keep it near the stock location. I need to come up with a nice hidey hole for my cut off switch, or maybe a piece of the cowl vent that can be removed to reveal the switch... Just thinking.... On another note, i tried using summit racing silver paint on the inside of the hood this last weekend. I forgot how tempermental silver paint is. Its really hard to keep my garage a reasonable temperature so it really didnt like to flow out properly. I used fast reducer and activator but it still didnt want to play nice. So i re evaluated how important it was to keep the car silver, and decided that a nice solid white is just fine!! i do like summit's solid color paints. Fortunately i already had a quart of Summit's pure white paint from another project so i sprayed the inside of the hood, and i am a happy camper again!! Now the fun part of doing the jams... D~
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Great advice. I will just stick with the stock location. Any advice for a nice inconspicuous place to put a battery shut off switch?
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I did considered that. I have done several things to remove weight from the car. the biggest is removal of the carpet, padding and majority of the interior. Although i don't have scales i am figuring that the center and rear of the car is where most of my weight is coming from. And the up side is the cleaner engine compartment. Is the weight bias that close?
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Hey all, well my car is coming along nicely, its all in primer and i have repaired almost all the rust. I want to re locate my battery to the rear of the car. Possibly in the well where the spare usually goes. Is anyone familiar with what kind of box it would need to be in so i dont get in trouble if i go do a track day or autocross?? I know that nhra rules make you put the battery in a box, and i think it has to be vented to the outside. But i think those rules only work on a trunk type car, i am not sure what to do with a hatch style car, i can easily run a remote rod style shut off to a box with a switch on it. So does anyone have any experience with what i am going to need to do? I am not afraid to fabricate parts, i am an aircraft structural tech. I actually plan to build a box out of aluminum, i just need to know if it needs to be sealed and vented to the outside, or what. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Dennis~
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Hey all, well my car is coming along nicely, its all in primer and i have repaired almost all the rust. I want to re locate my battery to the rear of the car. Possibly in the well where the spare usually goes. Is anyone familiar with what kind of box it would need to be in so i dont get in trouble if i go do a track day or autocross?? I know that nhra rules make you put the battery in a box, and i think it has to be vented to the outside. But i think those rules only work on a trunk type car, i am not sure what to do with a hatch style car, i can easily run a remote rod style shut off to a box with a switch on it. So does anyone have any experience with what i am going to need to do? I am not afraid to fabricate parts, i am an aircraft structural tech. I actually plan to build a box out of aluminum, i just need to know if it needs to be sealed and vented to the outside, or what. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Dennis~
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The megamanual clearly states to install the crystal in step 38. Absolutely no mention of being just for ms1. and the megamanual i am working out of is the one for the ms2 with the v3.0 board. Where is the info about not using the crystal??? am i using the wrong dang manual??? this isn't the first instant of having incorrect information in the megamanual if it is the problem... so what do i do? yank the crystal and jumper?? ugh... really not impressed here.
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yup, correct components installed, checked it at least five times this eve. I decided to try to return the setup to VR to see if i could get it back to at least making some change when the pots are moved like it did before. No luck, all that is working correctly now it the clock circuit. I am honestly about ready to put this thing on craigslist and wash my hands of it. it took me a long time to save up enough to purchase this. I really had the impression that someone with good mechanical skills should be able to do it. Maybe i was wrong. Now i dont have coolant temp even when the stim is pulled, pots changed and pluged back in. all the other values change except coolant now. and still no tach.