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Still looking? If so I have a 240z with a completely sorted L28 Turbo. This car has every swap from the 280ZX including the 5 speed, R200 and CV axles. In addition it has the Jim Wolfe ECU and Mustang Cobra induction system. The car makes over 340 HP to the wheels and will easily outrun and out handle a V8 car, and it's all Datsun! The car is fresh with only dyno miles on a new engine. Hit me back if you want the ultimate Z car without any build hassles. Tom

Mack, Just finished a professional rebuild of my 71 240Z with a L28ET turbo. The rebuild included a new motor, blueprinted injectors, turbo, clutch, brake and clutch masters and anything else that it needed. It's fresh with only dyno miles. It made 340HP at 12-15 psi. It's in Atlanta and ready to hunt anything on four wheels. I can send lots of documentation and put you in touch with both the engine builder and the shop that did the work. Might be a little more than your budget but there is not a better car out there. Tom 678 296-3034

I have a fully sorted and newly rebuilt s30 with 280ZX turbo driveline. Just made 340HP on the dyno. You won't find a better running Z. Let me know if you want pictures or details.

Anyone have a fresh F54 turbo short block they want to sell in the Atlanta area? Reviving a car that's been sitting and the compression/leak down tests show my rings are stuck. We've tried the chemical methods to free them up, no luck. Thought I'd see if anyone has an extra I can swap before I go through a rebuild.

I did search but couldn't find the answer I have a 280ZX turbo setup in my S30. The ECU is a Wolf Z31 and the harness is a stock 280ZX Turbo with Wolf modifications. The throttle body is 240SX 60mm. The TPS that came with the harness bolted up to the stock bolt spacing on the 240SX and everything worked fine. Then I got stupid! To make a long story short I tried to adapt the 240SX TPS to the 280ZX harness. Bad idea, wrong TPS, etc. The problem is I can't find the original TPS (2 position stock) that was on the car. Ordered a new one and it's the 3 prong and the mounting tabs are too wide to bolt up. Anyone have a part number or pictures of the stock 2 position? Any idea where I can get one?

Anyone tried these in an S30? I'm looking at these and the Corbeau A4's. Any opinions? http://www.sparcousa.com/pseats_street.asp?id=644

71 240 with 280ZX Turbo. Tom Robinson, Alpharetta Ga.

Where are you guys located? I'm in Alpharetta and love the run over the mountain between here and Blairsville. Maybe we can get together?

Guys, the fabrication on this is simple and I'm not worried about how to do it. My, and I think most users' issue is access to the proper tools. In this case it'll require at least a metal band saw (or laser burn table, or plasma cutter), grinder, slow speed drill press, metal hole saw, welder, tumbler (or a bunch of sanding) and paint/powder coat. From some of MONZTER's other posts it looks like he has access to a proper machine shop and produces some awesome stuff. I also understand priorities and work load. No worries I'll put one together and let you all know how it comes out. Thanks for sharing the idea and approach.

Bump How about a compromise? 1) Making the bars, or 2) Making the plates for sale, buyer sources bar and welding locally 3) Post the prints for source and fab by buyer locally? 4) Other?

I like the idea of Monzter making some prints so we can use the engineering that's already been done. That being said I'd definitely be in for an unpainted part properly welded.

Monzter, I'm running the same strut bars front and rear and I like the balance of the car too. I really need a harness bar and wondered if you'd consider making a batch?

The kit contains three custom castings (intake and exhaust manifolds and the carb plenum). The intake/exhaust manifolds are relatively simple pieces. I suspect the carb plenum would be a different matter since it's dual walled to allow water to circulate around the air/fuel charge. Also keep in mind that the castings all require machining to ensure proper hole alignment and mating surfaces for the turbo and head attachment. If you had access to design software a casting foundry and a machine shop it could be done.

I've honestly thought about it. I'm not sure if I should keep the setup as a cool piece of Z car history or sell it so it could be blasting down the road under someone else's hood. I've got a good bit of money in a new carb, rebuilding the turbo, coating all the manifolds and sourcing the proper water injection valve (one of the last ones Turbo Tom had). I only ran the setup for about 3-4K miles until I bought an EFI turbo setup from a buddy who is building an RB-26. Make me an offer?

Yes, the carb is a standard Holley 750. We played with the jetting on the Dyno to get the mixture right. I honestly don't remember what jets we ended up with. The setup easily made 300+/- horsepower depending on boost level. The water injection is not typically necessary if you keep the boost to stock (7-8 psi) and use premium fuel. Anything over that definitely requires it to avoid detonation.

I got by my storage unit today and took some pictures of my setup as it was removed from my car. 1 and 2) Complete setup as unbolted 3) Water lines from thermostat housing and then to the heater box. Also show vacuum line to brake booster. 4) Head view of manifolds. Also shows waste gate at lower left. 5) The water injection nozzle as it sits under the carb. I used a spray nozzle to mist the water into the fuel air mixture after a friend had a problem with his turbo being scored by a straight stream of water. I also used a 20% alcohol mix in my water. The waste gate uses a 7 pound spring and a dial type boost controller. With this setup I was able to run 10psi on the street and then turn it up to 15psi on the track. I've got a few more pictures if anyone is interest.

Here are a few pictures of my setup. There are two systems plumbed to the carb plenum which is custom cast as a part of the system. 1) a coolant line from the thermostat housing to the base of the carb plenum, this line then runs out of the carb plenum and T's into the main water line leading to the heater core. The function is to preheat the fuel/air mixture as it enters the turbo. 2) A water injection line that also feeds into the air/fuel mixture from the back. This feed is controlled by a pressure sensitive valve that is inline with the water line that runs from the bottom of the water tank (red tank next to the battery) to the plenum. This valve is preset to open at 8-10 psi of boost. This pressure is generated by feeding intake manifold pressure to the top of the water tank. Since water is not compressible the water injection feed line is pressurized and the resulting water pressure opens the inline valve and allows water to feed into the fuel/air charge cooling it and preventing detonation. The last line is oil from the block to the turbo bearing. This line taps off of the stock oil pressure sensor port adjacent to the oil filter and runs over top of the valve cover. The setup does use a variable boost controller. It is plumbed as usual with a vacuum source off of the back of the intake casting. The custom exhaust manifold mounts the wastegate just below the carb. The boost controller mounts to the firewall next to the hood latch. Vacuum lines route easily and make controlling boost easy. I've got the setup in my storage garage and can take more pictures if anyone wants more details.

I restored and ran an original Turbo Tom setup on my Z for several years. It is a draw through setup which used a Holley 750cfm carb and water injection to control detonation. It dynoed at 310HP with a stock 83 turbo longblock with a P90A head. Overall it ran great. The only issue was cold starting sometimes after it sat for a while. I've since changed to an EFI setup after I blew to head gasket and decided to rebuild the motor. I have pictures of anybody is interested.

I have a complete Turbo Tom's setup including intake and exhaust manifolds, modified card, Water injection tank and valve and exhaust downpipe. The exhaust parts have been jethot coated and the intake and water injection have been powder coated Turbo Tom red krinkle. In addition I have a Electromotive Tec II ingnition setup with a custom mounting bracket for the L24-28 block and a rebuilt Turbo (turbonetics). These parts were on my 71 240Z until I recently switched to a FI setup. I talked to Tom at the Walter Mitty a few years ago and he indicated that he built my original engine in the late 70's in his shop here on Atlanta. Let me know if anyone is interested in a complete ready to bolt up piece of automotive history!