Blakt Out

Alan: Thanks for all the ideas and wisdom. They are much appreciated. I don't mind at all to do this. I enjoy it. This is Z car #14 for me, although easily the nicest I've had. I've also had quite a bit of real motorsports experience, and totally agree with you. You can see some of the other stuff that I've done by clicking the link in my sig. Thanks again! I'll let you know how it goes.

JT: Thanks much. I'll check that out. But as for the moving the wheel back and forth, I think that's what my mechanic did and concluded that there was "axle slop" and that I needed to send them back to the place that rebuilt them. Alan: Thanks SO much. You're talking about here, right? I also have this picture. Does it help any?

Will do. I'll check that out this morning. Thanks!

K, so I'm just reading up on everything I can find here... I'm not going to assume that the shop that built the car flipped the end cage of the CV shafts around to shorten them up the necessary 3/8", as noted in other posts (by Ross at Modern Motorsports too). Thing is, I don't know what they looked like before. So, can you guys tell from any of my pics if this has been done or not? Again, thanks for ALL the help, fellas. I'm thinking that this, if it hasn't been done, could be why I had shavings in the cap, which then might have messed something up, causing there to be slop.

So, with the diff I have, this should work fine, assuming that it's the diff and not the CV shafts, correct? http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4374

Sorry to ask, but what is the LCA? Everything seems tight though, yes. I invited the guy that has done some work on it here in Knoxville to read this thread last night. He said that he had already diagnosed it as "axle slop". He said he put the car in gear and rocked it back and forth to diagnose this. I assume this means that they had play in them (the CVs). Is this how the rest of you would interpret this too, or could this also possibly indicate that the diff is bad? The CVs were simply remanufactured for me. We found them in a junk yard on an '87 Turbo and had them rebuilt, though they had no fancy extra-strong parts to build them with.

Thank you very much. Then, if this is the case, I may have a diff issue. It's not the bearings, as I've taken them out and checked them already. If it's the diff, then I need to find another to try it out. I had a Quaife in another car. Maybe that's the solution. By the way, we didn't rebuild the diff, as it was stated to be perfect. It also wasn't doing this during tuning on the dyno. So, maybe about a hundred runs on a dyno with 435+whp sent the diff over the edge?

I have no idea whatsoever, but I have to find it. It's killing me. Maybe I put it on a dyno and then get behind it and find the noise when accelerating. That's all I can think of. So, am I supposed to have both a right and a left Z31 turbo shaft? Is mine a long nose diff? I don't think the diff was rebuilt. Could be that. Geesh, I hope to be done dumping money into this car soon...

I'd like feedback on this too.

Is it correct to have right and left axles?

Well, it looks like everything is nice and tight under there. Here are some pics that I just took. It's a bit grimy under there, since I recently drove it 300 miles.

Great. I'll check that within the hour. Other ideas? I know this is silly, but when I'm troubleshooting something, I don't assume anything. So, this IS a longnose R200, right?

Hey guys: I live in Knoxville, TN, and the car was built in N. Wilkesboro, NC, and the drivetrain was built in Wilmington, NC. So, in other words, I'm far away from anyone who has put hands on my car during the build. I still have one issue that I need help resolving. Any and ALL help is appreciated. Despite the fact that I had others build this car, I'm fairly mechanically inclined, and my buddy has a very nice shop that I can use, including the lifts and such. I need to get this figured out and done. I'll give you all the info that I have: The diff is an R200 LSD... old-school type. The CV shafts are Z31 turbo. They are a right and a left. I've read before that you put the driver's side one on both sides, or something like that. This could be my issue. I have the Modern Motorsports 4130 stub axles - 5 lug. Then, I have the AZ Z Car diff mount and such. When I first started driving the car, I had a rotational humming/scraping noise in the passenger side, plus some clunking that I'll explain in a sec. I took the cap off the end of the axle (term might be wrong, in the bearing area) and it had shavings everywhere because the shaft was cutting on the inside of the dust cap. I cleaned it all up, regreased it, and pushed the cap outward a bit. This took away the rotational sound. But the clunking - I still have that. I hate it. If I have pressure on the driveline (as in, acceleration) then it's wonderful. I can have some pressure on it and then throttle it in high boost and there's still no clunk. But if I have just a bit of maintenance throttle and then put more on, it clunks on the passenger side. Here's a real-world situation: Driving down the interstate - accelerate to 70mph. All is well. Try to maintain that speed (not accelerate) and I can feel the pressure on the driveline go away, then when I roll on the throttle again, it clunks HARD. Could this be my diff? Or a wrong/bad CV shaft? I don't think there's really anything else it could be. All help is so very much appreciated. I'll do my best to answer all questions during the troubleshooting. Thanks fellas. Jared

Car is on eBay now. Let's see how this goes! I'd really appreciate any help you guys can give me on spreading the word. Here's a link.

Thanks, but mine came in today. I'll see how it goes! Thanks!

Awesome! Thank you much. Before getting your answer, I tried to measure the distance between the holes, center to center. However, since it's actually ON the car, and I have a custom-fabbed washer fluid canister, I couldn't really get a good look at it. I thought it said 2.75", but again, there was definitely nothing scientific about the way I did it. The one you have showed me here is 2.25" center to center. Are you sure this is what we have? Thanks again!

Yup, the title pretty much says it all. The travel on my stock master isn't enough to move the S14 5speed's slave. I posted this on the S30 forum instead of in the 4cyl forum, because I know that most swaps (V8 and all) have to go through this too. Thing is, I cannot for the life of me find the part number that everyone is using for either of these companies. I want to make sure that it bolts up to the 240Z holes, as I refuse to cut holes in my firewall. I've read that Tilton has a 3/4" that fits, but that there's some modification needed to the rod OR you just put the rod from the 240Z in it. That's all fine. I'm just really hoping someone on here can help me out. My clutch is hard to get to engage, and when the fluid is cold, I can drive around the parking lot with the pedal on the floor! Thanks in advance. I found Zracesource.com, as they have one on eBay. I've emailed them, called them, and even tried to Buy It Now, but nothing works. Help! Jared

Hey guys: I've got the Competition Clutch Stage 4 clutch kit and lightweight flywheel on my SR. I'm currently using the stock 1972 master cylinder, and with all the adjustment out of the rod (under the dash) it doesn't engage.... in other words, it's hard to get in and out of first and reverse. I need to go to a larger master cylinder, right? So, the stock one is 5/8", right? And Wilwood makes one that is a 3/4". Or... can I just go down to AutoZone and get a 280ZX master? What size is it? 15/16? I read that with the ZX one, I'll have to drill on the firewall, which is just not a solution for me right now. Is this correct? Thanks in advance, fellas. Jared

It's going to be at European Auto Garage this Saturday for the big Z car show. You gotta come! I'll sure tell them! However, I'm betting that it either goes to an Asian guy in Cali or over to Bahrain/Dubai. Just my betting self talking here. We'll all see. I'm actually working on a lead in Bahrain now.

Jon: You and I are totally on the same wavelength. I appreciate it. I also appreciate this Z too much to risk it. Here's an underbody shot that I took the other day.

Oh. Gotcha. No, I definitely did not plan to sell. It's a long hard story, but essentially I was making a LOT of money for a few years, and what I was spending on cars wasn't really making a dent in it. I put it in an investment that went sour, as in 7 figures turned into zero - nil - in a matter of 6 months. So then I started another company, which always takes a lot of capital and time, and needed to sell one of my cars. I sold my highly built 911 track car because I had to finish the Z. It wasn't going to be worth anything unfinished. So many monies later, it is finished. I miss having a track car. The Z would be incredible, but it's just too nice. I put my 911 into a tire wall once, and that hurt. To do that to the Z would break my heart. So while it's still perfect, I have it now for sale. I'll put some of the money into building a car around a new LS3 driveline that I have, and keep the rest to live off of until the new business sprouts its wings as it is already starting to. That's the full, real story. I hate to sell it. I love to sit and stare at it. I adore this car. But I NEED to go to the track.

Which part is funny? I've already had one offer that's not too far off of that (trade value included), but since this is early in the game, I thought I'd hold out a bit. Then again, maybe that's not what you meant. Thanks to the rest of you guys.

Was just a bad fan. Car is now for sale. $125,000. Please send inquiries to jared@jaredcullop.com. Thanks!

Wonderful job! If you have a friend over there looking for a really nice S30, mine is completely done and is now for sale. But again, wonderful job! Enjoy it in good health!