Geking
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Posts posted by Geking
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You do not need to drop the tranny. If memory serves, it should be on the driver rear of the trans. One bolt will remove a fork thing that looks like a air-die grinder wrench, the speedo cog will slide out, and pop a new one in, transferring the o ring and holder. Yes240zboy is right, you do need to drain the oil out first otherwise you will have a dino swimming pool.
I just got the motor back in the car last week with my dad and just worked out all the bugs so we really would not want to take it apart. Can a new cog be put in while everything is all together or will I have to drop the tranny. I can drop it with the motor still in but it will set me way back for a little issue.
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I burned out two alts trying to get the idiot light to work. Not worth it! (yes I used the resistor)
Huh did not know that about the LT1 alt. Looks like i need to get one of those resistors.
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I had the same consideration on 305 or 350. I am so very glad I went for a 350 after comparing my 280z with a friend's late 80s 305 Camaro. Granted the f body is heavier, but still, the 305 is not a sound investment for the effort to swap from the L28 IMHO.
To give you an idea, I could easily beat my friends camaro at a light to light game with a stock 280z running a tired motor.
The reason the 305 is not liked is because the narrow bore shrouds the valves, making it more difficult for the engine to aspirate.
From Wiki:
Year hp (kW) lb•ft (N•m) 1976 140 250 w/2bbl. 1977 145 245 w/2bbl. 1978 140 240 w/2bbl. 1978 160 235 w/4bbl. 1979 130 245 w/2bbl. 1979-Ca 125 235 w/2bbl. 1980 155 240 w/4bbl. 1981 150 240 w/4bbl
Also, if I am not mistaken, the stock heads on a 305 can not use TPI, but instead uses an intake for chevy's 'crossfire' Essentially two huge injectors at the air filter.
Just my vote of not worth it.
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Alright so should I be looking for a datsun speedometer gear or chevy or does it even matter. I am using the jtr speedometer cable and the gm speedo gear it came with so thats my problem. Just trying to get a lead in the right direction
Cable is made for GM, GM trans, so you should use a GM gear. Very good resources posted guys, thanks! Bookmarking this for reference!
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Also, why is the dash such a pain?
The dash is a pain because: 9 out of 10 wires in the car go through the dash, it is a big piece that must be properly aligned, and the heater lines, pedal box steering and all that jazz is mixed in with it. I would much rather pull a engine than a dash. I would mark it up as the 2nd most annoying piece of the car to work on, with the spindle pins in the rear suspension being the worst.
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If you get a few books and take your time you should be OK if you have some common sense. I would reccomend the Factory Service Manual and How to Restore your Datsun Z Car http://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Datsun-Z-Car/dp/1931128022
Installing the dash is the hardest part in my optinion
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I have one out of a 78. How much?
I am looking for the steering linkage that connects to the rubber bushing on the steering column to the steering rack. I need the rod and the ends that attach to the rack and bushing.
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That is what the shaft shop did for me. (Originally said that they would use the GM shaft, I picked up the Datsun...) So i have been pushing 260 HP though a datsun shaft with a chevy slip yoke on it with no problems so far.
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I am using a iron head LT1. plenty of power for an S30, runs on 87, and I am not using an optispark, I am using Megasquirt with Ford's EDIS so I am running with coil packs. you can buy the electronics set up and that LT1 you found for less then some SBCs and way less then an LSx. I would not say an LT1 is a SBC as the heads, block, ign, etc are different. (can you use a sbc cam in an LT?)
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I made mine as cheaply as possible. I already had a 2.5" performance system from the L28. I tack welded 2.5 from the headers to a y, then it goes through a glasspack I scavenged from a evo exhaust. From there it goes back around the suspension and out the back using the L series system. Counting the rods it cost me under $40. It is a bit loud but I can still get my wife to ride along.
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The LT1 is almost a chevy small block, and it has tuned port injection. Also cheap.
I think you just need to sit down and ask yourself what car is best for you. Seeing as I have never owned a Buick and I do not know what you deam as good milage etc this is something only realy you can figure out. Sorry.
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Are you putting in a muffler, or just straight pipe? What's in the box? I can't tell.
the tackle box is full of GM style waterresistant eletrical connectors.
Modern, nice work, when can we see pics of that exaust installed?
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http://www.chevelles.com/techref/tecref14.html
This covers everything you need besides how to wire up two of the wires. This is the alternater that I am using, it charged my battery from having to hill start the car to starting with no issues at night with the headlights on in 2 miles.
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I just gently work around it with a screwdriver wrapped in tape.
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Looks good. The only thing I see that is not hooked up is the brake booster. Driving it for the fist time is such a rewarding thing. It does look sharp. Don't forget to add your location in your profile, new rule.
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Yes, that is what I meant. A center console that would go from the radio to just behind the shifter, leaving the rest to be covered by carpet.
Yeah a-pillar pods are only ricer if they consist of nonfunctional boost gauges. I don't personally think they are very aesthetic but that's me.
The only problem is that most of the interior parts seem to not be interchangeable. 240,260,280 all have slight variations. Some things like the dome light panel and tail panel look a little different but I think they can be swapped though. Do you guys know if the steering cover is or not?
What's a half center hump cover? You mean a piece that replaces the center console and heater panel?
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I pulled the fuel pickup line to drain the last bit of gas once. It flowed out like it was going through a McDonald's drinking straw, so you have more to dissolve.
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I pull my T5 trans off the bellhousing, then remove the bellhousing. That way I do not have to worry about the bellhousing causing clearance issues esp considering I still have the stock trans mounting ears.
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I have the cheap ebay headers on my car. The paint burned off in the first 20 min, but other than that the headers have been great for being only $80
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I took the stock driveshaft and a 90's T56 Camaro driveshaft to a shop and they made a shaft that worked for my car, T5 to r200. I have the JTR manual, did not bother to consult it for the driveshaft. Also mount the trans up as high as you can. This eliminates nasty vibrations under load.
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if you are stuck on an S30, however, a 280Z is safer than a 240Z due to reinforced doors and a beefier frame. Still not what I would want to be in if I had an accident.
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I would love to see some nice 280Z taillights made, as well as a custom half center hump cover, one that goes from the dash to right behind the shifter.
I would buy 280Z parts if the price was right, esp A pillar pods. An A pillar gauge is not 'ricer', it is just the best option if you want lets say oil temp, AFR or Boost gauges. I have an AFR gauge held to my dash with a small piece of double sided sticky foam tape. I just have not gotten around to ordering and modifying a Miata pod yet.
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Woa buddy, you are new here. HybridZ is more for non standard modifications than 'do I need a scatter shield' (the plate that covers the bottom of your bellhousing) If you have a good flywheel, and a good starter, then you are not installing it correctly or you are not getting enough power to the starter so it is chattering. I would take the starter off the car and see if the gear pops out when you go to start, and also to see if it chatters. Also, see if you can paint the gear to see how it is engaging with the flywheel.
nobody?
Dome pistons
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
1+
I wish the T5 I bought was only 300!
I would go with a world class if pushing 360 HP. The normal ones are for 305s pushing only like 220 ft/lbs. (Non world classes still very hard to get for 300...)