Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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I have been reading posts about U joints vs. CV joints for quite some time and I have yet to read anything that I would consider a definitive answer one way or the other.
About the only thing everyone seems to agree on is that CV joints handle angularity better than the U joints, and that the U joints without the grease zerk appears to be stronger than the one with the zerk.
Arguments about which is the better or a more modern design are really irrelavent as far as strength goes. A CV joint designed for a low power application (say a Huyndai) will not be as strong as one designed for something like a Peterbuilt. Thus the only question that matters is which of the two available for my Z is stronger?
Unless I missed the posting where someone listed Nissan's official torque ratings of both parts or did some type of controlled testing, then all we have to go by is people's past experience. And if you look back through the archives, I don't think you could make a case that one is clearly better than the other.
Not throwing down a challange. Just saying the answer is not clear.
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Might do a follow up on this thread and see if the guy ever did the Mustang II front
http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6269&highlight=mustang+front
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My speed shop has Hooker HOO21510 dual 2-1/2" in, 3" center out in 4-3/4"x10-1/4"x22" for &64.98
Phil1934, thanks for the heads up. This will save me cutting out the spare tire well to run duals.
Wondor why more guys don't run with this muff?
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Yeah. Ditto what Denny said. A complete swap has the best "cheapness" potential.
My situation is completely different than yours yet the end result is the same. I am 45 with a wife and two kids. Thus all of my expenses are doubled because whatever I spend on the Z gives the wife an excuse to spend the same amount on something she wants.
I have been watching ebay and LT1-T56 combos out of 94-97 Camaro's and Firebirds are starting to sell for just over $2000. These are complete pull outs from cars with generally under 80,000 miles and many times junk yard gaurantees. If you want to go automatic you can get them for anywhere from $500 to $1000 less. Can then offset some of the expense by selling off the air conditioning compressor and PS pump.
My plan is to do a complete engine-trans swap in the next year or two, drive the car as is for a few years, then, when I hit the lottery, pull it back out an do performance parts and top quality paint.
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Too Cool.
I have always wondered about making a dual inlet, single outlet turbo design so a Z could run dual exhaust with out modifying the spare tire well. The dual inlet muff is not common, but someone once posted they found an el cheapo at Trak or someplace like that.
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Yeah. The posting on new site info tells how. Go into your profile and near the bottom adjust the "Board Style" setting to "zoneSilver". Then hit "submit" at the very bottom of the page to set it.
They really need to make this the default style for people without accounts.
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Any concern about creating "spears" that may be driven into the cabin in the event of a crash
If you tie the bracing into the firewall near the hood latch, you are a good 3 feet from either seat. If that becomes an issue in a wreck, your toast anyway. But I would tie in some type of cross support just to make everything more rigid anyway.
Triangles are definitely the way to go. That design to run Y shaped pieces straight back to the firewall has been discussed before.
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Man, thats too much work.
There was a recent thread on exhaust fumes that covered it very well. It was the one where I think ZR8ED was building diffusers underneath his car. In the final post, one member did a series of steps to get rid of the fumes in his car (something about a car bong and silicone caulk). In the end he bought an $8 exhaust tip extention and that cured his fumes problem.
Try a search and find the thread.
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No reason why you couldn't do what you are saying, given enough time and $$$. Guess I would have to ask why you would want to.
Last time I checked the Mustang II was a 1970 vintage automobile with the front end design older than that. The Jag rear would be cool, but hard to see what the advantage woud be over a hot rodded 280 rear. Both of those things are excellent upgrades for a 20's vintage car with kingpins and mechanical brakes. But for a 280 with a very good suspension design and tons of upgrade parts available, it just seems like a LOT of work and you end up with a car that maybe doesn't handle as well as the one you started out with.
But if that is what you want, pump mustang 2 and jag rear end into the search engine, because I know both of those topics have come up before. And subframes are being discussed in a current thread.
Better yet, there are two other sites you should look at. One guy built a custom frame loaded with vette parts and is grafting a Z body on it. He was posting regular updates on his progress. I would post a link but all of my bookmarks got killed in the site rehosting. There is a second guy who built an entire tube chassis for his Z. Absolutely awesome. Try a search and see if you can find them.
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do a search on Z convertibles and/or subframe connectors. There is a company on the west coast that makes a set of subframe connectors for their convertible package. I have alway liked the look of them, but have yet to get a low down from anyone who has bought them.
Then of course there are Pete P's infamous subframe connectors on his site.
And yes, a solid subframe connector is a good thing in terms of performance.
The one approach I haven't seen taken on this site is to pull off the rocker panels and run a supporting channel through there. It would then have to be connected into the transverse components in some way.
Also someone posted an article on a roll cage for ITS racing. It is very good (I can't find the link so try a search).
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My guess is not a whole lot, unfortunately. Probably be lucky to get $100 for them.
I have a set myself, complete with all orignal parts and a K&N filter. A few months ago someone posted they wanted a set and about a half dozen guys posted relies. I would be hesitant to buy used SU's for the same reason I replaced mine to begin with; the throttle shaft bushings wear out and are expensive to replace correctly. That is why MSA gets $600 for a set of rebuilts, not including the core charge.
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I thought the same thing also. What a pathetic snob the guy who took all those picture is. What's worse, putting up a flag upside down or stalking your neighbor, taking pictures though half open blinds?
The guy who posted the site needs to get a life. Maybe if he made friends with the guy he could talk to him man to man to avoid some of the problems.
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Why are man hole covers round?
My answer: because most people have round holes.
End of interview.
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Would the LS6 mounting be any different than the LS1?
Have numerous good threads on installing LS1's.
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I can honestly say that if I were to be handed a quiz like that in a job interview, it would be the end of the interview.
Had an EE friend who interviewed with Hewlett Packard. He was a genius type with a straight A's. For his initial, on campus interview they put him in front of 5 guys who started shooting techinical questions at him. After some time they started asking questions designed to "judge his thought processes". I remember the one that set him back was "Why are man hole covers round?"
Anyway he put up with all this nonsense. About a week later he got a call from some self important manager offering him a job. He turned them down, telling them "if you treat your employees anything like you treated me in that interview, then you don't have the type of company I would like to work for"
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Get a set of Mike Kelly's adjustable rear control arms and take it to an alignment shop for a rear wheel alignment.
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Iraq, Kuwait and Saudi Arabia contain 45% of the world's known oil reserves. Saudi Arabia is one of the few countries with excess pumping capacity so they can make prices go up or down by shifting production.
Also I don't think the US oil companies own much of anything over there any more. We are more like contractors hired to help them process oil.
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Looking forward to the updates. When you are done you are going to write the JTR manual for LS1 installs, correct?
Seems like LS1 engines and T56 tranny's are getting cheaper and more plentiful every year.
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You guys are getting a little off topic.looking for a very streetable package that will still light up the unwary.I would give you a definitive answer, but I don't know. My 2.4L is still smog legal.
But, from what these guys (and others in the past) have said you can get 300 HP out of the L6, but it will be pushing things. For a "streetable" engine (a very subjective measure), lets say 225-250 HP.
But keep in mind that while 300 HP in a non-turbo L6 is on the high end, a 300 HP V8 is downright mild. The V8 will be a much more pleasant engine on the street and will be much less prone to breaking something. And if done right the car will still be able to corner in a way that exceeds most peoples ability to drive it.
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Come on, John. Tell us how you REALLY feel.
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Schwarzkopf didn't say we should cool our heels. He said:
Huge difference. As bad as a gulf war II will be, it will be beyond imagination if we wait until the area goes nuclear.I don't know what intelligence the U.S. government has. And before I can just stand up and say, 'Beyond a shadow of a doubt, we need to invade Iraq,' I guess I would like to have better information. -
Damn. Someone call the po-lease! It is almost like a theft in progress!
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Man, you need to check on your own posts!
http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=002056
Mark says the driver's side is reverse threaded. If any of the thread is exposed, then look at it carefully to determine which way it needs to turn.
If you can't get the nut off, then you have no hope of seperating the tie rod. If it won't thread off, use a nut splitter or hot wrench (torch) to get it off (don't destroy your knuckle).
Then get the right sized fork. The inner part of the U should be just wider than the tapered bolt the nut goes onto. The fork goes between the tie rod end and the knuckle (where the rubber boot is) with the U of the fork straddling the bolt. It should go about half way down the U then stop. If it hits the bottom of the U then the fork is too wide. Then wack the end of the fork. This will wedge the tapered part of the fork between the knuckle and the rod end pushing them apart.
Vibration is the key. Rapping on the knuckle while trying to force the two parts apart will help vibrate the press fit. Heating the knuckle part will make it expand and help the process.
But none of this will do any good if you can't get the nut off first.
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You do realize that an electric water pump will use the same amount of engine HP as a mechanical. An electric will just do it by loading down the alternator.I want to do anything I can to free up HP that is already there but being robbed by something, in this case the water pump!An electric fan can free up HP since they don't have to run all the time. That is not the case with a water pump.
burned the rotor cap why?
in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
Posted
My guess is the coil wire to cap connection just got corroded causing the electronics box to kick up the juice to overcome the extra resistance. The white powder is most likely aluminum oxide (the aluminum equivalent of rust) which doesn't conduct. The cap may have been cracked in places causing cross fires (backfires when cold) adding to the problem.
I would just do an ignition tune up (plugs, wires, obviously cap and rotor). Make sure to use the dieelectric grease when connecting the plug wires (it helps prevent oxidation). Check and clean all the contacts (including the power wires to the coils) and check the coil insulator very carefully for any type of hairline cracks. Beyond that just watch it carefully and see if any problems reoccur.