Pop N Wood
-
Posts
3012 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Pop N Wood
-
-
I feel your pain. I looked long and hard for sideview mirrors and still didn't find exactly what I wanted.
Like you I wanted something functional. This meant mirrors on both sides and something where the mirror moves inside the stationary outer casing (so they don't get bumped out of position in parking lots). I also wanted good visiblity.
I eventually found a set at Motor Sport Auto (http://www.zcarparts.com/). They have a set that mounts to the window frame where wing windows use to be. They are square (which some people don't like), but they are solid, blend well with the body and offer excellent visiblity.
-
Looks plenty compact. I would think the torque right at the wheel would stress the Z front suspension, but would probably work on the rear of a live axle car. Hard to believe you could get 100 HP out of such a small motor even with one at each corner. Plus adding so much unsprung weight is generally not a good idea. But if it eliminates the rest of the drive train...
Regenerative braking has been around since the first diesel electric locomotive was built. In modern trains, the diesel drives an electric generator that in turn powers electric motors at the wheels. The motors make equally good generators, so to brake you idle the diesel and put an electric load on the drive motors. Trains go one step further and put large electro-magnets on each side of wheels. This induces eddy currents in the spinning metal wheels further braking the train.
-
Ron Tyler lists the Dry weight of his LT1-T56 72 240Z as 2420 lbs. Thats with brake upgrades, R200, CV joints, coil overs and some strut tower bracing.
Check out the link I posted above.
This includes a full interior.
-
Sort of like all those cattle mutilations that took place out west many years ago....
Don't be so sure this has purely a terrestrial explanation
... -
I am a EE. I design and build airborne radars for Northrop Grumman.
Before that I was a reactor operator in the Navy.
But with all that I wish I knew half as much about cars and engines as some of the guys on this site.
-
You know I was hesitant to answer this post because I just knew there were more experienced guys that should be answering.
But since no one else was taking the bait I threw in what I knew.
However, the original question wasn't "what subtle differences are there in the handling of a V8 Z to an inline 6 Z" but rather whether one will "sacrifice" handling with a V8.
It is good to know that in line 6's are still so competitive in certain classes of racing (and worth pursuing the gauntlet being thrown), BUT I think everyone will agree that done right a V8 Z is still a very formidable corner carver? It is not like we are turning the car into the equivalent of a 60's Hemi Cuda.
Getting back to JohnC's challenge: given my arguments, why do you think the inline 6's perform better than the V8 conversions?
-
If anything it should improve.
Search the archives to peruse all the advantages of a JTR V8 swap. They are many. Try searching of "Scarab" to get some detailed handling info.
For example, here is one site with a sweet LT1 Z:
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rontyler/Z.html
Ron lists his weight distribution as 49% fron, 51% rear. Don't know if this was before or after he switched to the much lighter aluminum tank. (I think a stock Z is slightly more forward biased.)
This car did not gain any appreciable weight and, while not listed, the V8 tends to lower the center of gravity. The FI LT1 should give excellent throttle response (with considerably more torque) at all RPM's which gives you more control over the car in turns.
His suspension is far from stock. With a better suspension, no weight gain, better weight distribution, better throttle response, lower CG, etc. etc. etc. this should be one hell of a car on any road.
-
A Male or Female moan?
-
PVC won't melt, but the hot water will disolve it into a thick slurry that will gum up your engine.
The problems with PVC pipe and hot water is well known. They use to refer to PVC plumbing as "class action" plumbing because after several years it disolved resulting in hundreds of class action lawsuits. Believe me, I know. My water heater had a PVC dip tube that dissolved, plugging the WH relief valve and eventually causing several water leaks throughout my house.
Modern houses use CPVC. It is something different made specifically for hot water.
Get a proper radiator hose before you trade one problem for a much worse one!!
-
Piss. Answered my own question
http://www.osha-slc.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html
Just one excerpt:
They say it can be used as long as it is encased in something else (like buried). They go further to say it is illegal in many states. No big deal to me but a definite lawsuit issue to anyone running a commercial shop.The main problem with using PVC pipe and fittings for compressed gas is not that it spontaneously explodes but that PVC is a brittle material that can be broken or shattered with external force unless properly protected. Compressed gasses can be best described as being analogous to a coiled spring. When a PVC pipe or fitting fails when under stress from compressed gas it literally explodes like a bomb, sending shards of plastic flying several feet in all directions. Liquids, on the other hand, being compressed by only 1/10th of 1% contain very little stored energy. When pressurized systems with liquids fail, the energy is dissipated very quickly, thereby creating a much lower potential for hazard. -
The 1/2 inch Shedule 40 pipe I used to plumb my garage is rated at 600 PSI. Says so right on the side of the pipe. I also have some 1/2 inch "Silver Line" PVC that is only rated at 315 PSI, but I didn't use that. I have seen other types of PVC that state very clearly "not for pressure".
Perhaps is depends on what type of PVC you use? Would seem that a 600 PSI rating should provide a sufficient margin on a 125 PSI compressor. Why would compressed air be anymore stressful to the piping than water?
Can anyone provide more details on exploding PVC? Kinda got me worried.
-
I am a strong advocate of quality tools. BUT I bought Harbor Freight's 17 inch drill press and I love it. It is better quality than either the Sears or Delta drill presses and was a good $100 less.
Can't say anything good or bad about any of their other power tools because I haven't had the guts to buy one sight unseen.
-
I have that How to Hotrod and Race your Datsun book and the cages on the BRE racers where truely extreme!! I agree, they are probably the best you could do with a cage, but IMO they are way too extensive for my street machine. Those suckers have more pipes than the Alaskan pipeline.
The ITS ariticle is extremely good in it's descriptions of the strengths and weaknesses of the Z unibody. Also how they tied the main hoop into the floor and stressing putting cross bracing to support the cage in a T bone is good to keep in mind.
The first thing I thought of when reading the ITS article was the cage needs to be brought forward into the engine compartment. But that is the easy part since you don't have to work around the passengers.
-
For the small number of joints, couldn't you do the same thing as a tubing notcher with a grinder? I saw the notchers on Harbor Freight and the first thing I thought of is how quickly they must go through hole saw blades.
Also a diagonal in the main hoop is an excellent idea, but I would rethink the X bars between the main hoop and the rear strut towers.
Katman sent me a pretty good magazine article on Z car cages. I'll try emailing you a copy.
-
guess I am just stupid. I know all of you are smater, younger and pretter than I, but why do you make it so complicated. Where did this come from?
Yeah, he may need more cooling capacity, BUT since his set up is not that far off from quite a few others who are not having problems, than that means he must have some other problem.
I haven't heard much talk about the 1 speed Tarus fan, so I would do like quite a few others and get a 2 speed unit that is properly shrouded. Running a can or two of radiator flush through the system could not hurt either and get a new radiator cap if you haven't done so already.
If this doesn't fix it, I would look into adding an oil cooler and a larger radiator.
-
Sorry to hear of your problems. Ironic how the original thread had him complaining of deadbeats.
Your best hope is to convince the guy it is in his own best interest to come clean. Since the guy was running some type of buisness in Texas, perhaps you could find some way dirty his reputation around the people he lives and works with. Better buisness bureau is a place to start (although one without teeth). Maybe another member knows him personnally and can put in a request on your behalf? Or even help the guy box and ship the trans?
I know it is too late for you, but makes paying an extra 3% to use paypal with a credit card seem like cheap insurance.
-
The starting fluid works perfectly. Just a little hazardous.
-
Cast iron or mild steel, you could braze a SS bung on either.
-
How do you know that "CC" means "CC/minute"?
-
The "new but rough" paint job is a bad sign. Could be covering up a ton of bondo and rust. This is IMO the most important thing. If the car has a workable body (pay special attention to the floor pans and rocker panels) and suspension then it is worth $500 for that alone.
There are a million other things to consider. For instance you never mentioned anything about the engine or type of tranny and whether the pig even runs.
No matter how you look at it, a lot of work and time before it is drivable.
-
Just make sure both wheels move together. An other way is to only lift one rear wheel off the ground then see how many turns of the tire are needed to turn the drive shaft one full turn then divide that number by two.
-
Yes, someone mentioned the variable valve timing on this site but I can't find the thread. Here is one from Chevy directly (for the trailblazer engine)
http://www.chevrolet.com/trailblazer/popup/engine/valve_timing.htm
Also found this thread:
http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=15;t=000236#000001
so sounds like automatic only.
-
Someone also posted that this engine uses variable valve timing which can be a PITA. Something about the engine computer...
-
Not to be picky but the more torque you have the less gears you need. And by more I mean a broader torque curve across RPM. Case in point would be a DOHC 4 banger turned to produce max HP at high PRM. For that engine the power band would be very narrow requiring a lot of shifting to keep the engine at max RPM. A blown V8 will have stump pulling torque down low and can thus tollerate a WIDE gear spacing.
This is something Grumpyvette has posted links on before. You may want to search through the Chevy V8 forum for torque and gears to get some on line tutorials.
Where did this come from?
383 ...questions on a buildup
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Take the Grumpyette approach. Build a 383 bottom end, but then use a more radical cam and intake to move the power curve up. This way you end up with more total HP but the stroker retains enough torque to make the engine streetable.
Why not build a 400? I thought 400 blocks were getting harder to come by, where as 350 blocks and 383 stroker kits are sold at K Mart (practically). I guess the difference would be price?