Hey_Allen

Regarding the gasoline smell, one thing I found caused it in my Z was the fuel filler vent hose. Once I found the hose where it was routed into the rear of the hatch area, I found that it was BADLY dry rotted and cracked. I replaced it (which was a bear, just fishing it through all the little nooks and openings) and fixed that issue, surprisingly easily.

I'd been kicking around linking my MSII to my car-pc for data logging as well as tunability. All it'd take to tune inside would be to map it's serial port remotely, or to remote desktop onto that computer from a remote machine. I wouldn't want to be doing any engine-running tuning from a relayed machine, just on the off chance of any latency or dropped connection issues, but then again, why would you have the engine running when you're not at the car in the first place?

From what I've heard about it, it's acceptable within it's design limits, but those limits are partially caused by the sound card hardware that it's running on. That being said, for probing EFI components, it shouldn't be an issue. I have no personal experience with it, and was searching for info on it when I saw it installed with the DIYAutotune software package as well. Then I went ahead and ordered a set of standard probes to hook up the $20 o-scope that I'd found at a surplus and used equipment vendor. Best of luck, and happy tuning!

Your Buick might have a PWM dimmer circuit, rather than a simple potentiometer. By pulsing the power at varying rates, you can get the appearance of different light levels from a LED or incandescent bulb, and with less wasted power through heat in the resistor of a potentiometer based dimmer.

I'm fairly certain that the 1 (/) ahead of the voltage ranges indicates single phase, but I could be wrong on that. What got me was the amperage requirements! 109A at 230V, 54.5 @ 460, and 43.5 @ 575... That's a lot of juice at any voltage! Happy sparking!

I've heard from one military police officer I know about a problem that cropped up with AFFF, when it comes to car applications. After they soaked one of their squad cars due to it just being too near a burning aircraft, they found that the paint would not stay on the car. After three cleanings and repaintings with different methods, they gave up on it. As far as carrying an extinguisher, I got started carrying a 5# CO2 years ago when I was first driving a diesel car. Good way to stop a runaway diesel engine.

That's my car, and it does have battery and frame rail damage, as shown in the pictures. Somebody in the past decided that urethane sealant was a proper rust "repair" and painted the underside of the wheel well below the battery with it. The acid apparently ran down into the frame rail, and the pictures show the rest. I am looking to sell as I don't have the facilities to fix it in an apartment complex, and for all the reading I did here before buying this project, didn't pick up on that as a possibility. As the CL posting says, I'm just looking to recoup most of what's in the engine. If someone was motivated to repair it, more power to them. On the other hand, it would be a prime donor car to transplant into another body.

From the commentary on the video, it looks like the owner had some ignition wiring backward, causing some backfiring. Now that being said, I wouldn't think that just backfiring would cause that much damage so quickly, so who knows what else these idiots got up to when assembling the thing. Bounce the cats off the ground a couple of times while mounting the cat-back exhaust, possibly?

Here are a few links to options from the motorcycle side of the house. http://www.shopcycle-parts.com/productdetail.htm?productId=4008988&browse=77192&shopBy=4108&catalogId=652 There are a few options among those, and there are other sources that are cheaper by far, for some of that stuff. The advantage with buying from a company like Drag Specialties is that you can either get them direct, or through any local motorcycle shop. (and as usual, prices vary widely between vendors...) Hmm.. I posted them, then checked them only to find that they all now directed to the same product, even though they were different links. Wierd. Try looking on the list at Drag Specialties directly: http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbook/21/240 http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbook/21/240/3896677 http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbook/21/240/3896705 http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbook/21/240/3896722 http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbook/21/240/3896650 http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbook/21/240/3896794 A slightly different take on it, these are flush mount welded bungs, with a pop-up plug that blends flush with the surface around your fuel opening. http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbook/21/240/3896406 http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbook/21/240/3896384

I've had good luck with the Deka battery that I'm currently using, and was referred to them by a friend who also uses them. AGM battery like the Optima, but not in spirals. http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/

On my car, the only holes I see are drain holes (and the hole from someone running over something, but that's another matter...) I'm going to have to find a few rubber floor plugs to cap those holes once I get the car back on the road!

When I was shopping for some replacement heads for my 1st gen SBC, I ended up getting a set of Summit branded heads. In the size I got, (and in cast iron, not aluminum) they were just small intake runner versions of the Dart Iron Eagle heads. I don't know if they offer the aluminum versions, but if you're not looking for peak HP, and a little better torque curve for daily driving, you might look at the Summit house branded offerings.

I have to ask. How well do they suit taller people? Also, how high are they at the seat? I like the look, and for the price, they look like a steal, but I am 6'4", so... Oh, in doing a little searching about the F1Spec seats, I found that F1Spec is a sponsor over on the HondaTech forum, and that they are doing a Holiday special pricing on them... I'm not sure just yet what the special is, as it requires a PM to get a price, but the base price offered to the members there is a bit lower than the prices on the site above.

Any chance that the choke is messing up, opening early? On my 350, it gets really temperamental just as it's starting to come off the choke, due to the choke opening up a bit before the engine is ready for it to. When it's doing this, it doesn't want to rev up, and will sometimes stumble and sputter.

Heh. Yeah, I noticed your reply just ahead of mine once the browser refreshed after I posted. Being at work meant I had to post and run. I've heard something about minds that think alike, but I wonder about the great part, considering at what level I'm usually working!