Hotrodpez
-
Posts
91 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Hotrodpez
-
-
The bolts holding the halfshafts to my diff are rusted / frozen in place. I have tried penetrating oil, no dice. Do you guys think it would be ok to heat them up with a propane torch, or will I fry the seals in the diff?
My only other option is to let my 800ft/lb impact gun loose on them, but that'd probably shear them off and then I'm really screwed.
-
Ummm... Ok, look at the top left picture of that magazine. What do you see? I see big rear tires, all up in smoke, and little skinny front tires, not doing a damn thing. Kinda defeats the point of AWD doesn't it??
And that intercooler...
I mean it looks like that Z choked on a small forklift. Why the heck did they paint it in yellow stripes?? -
RUST RUST RUST RUST!!!!!! That is the biggest thing to look for when buying a Z. They told me that when I was new to Datuns and I ignored them. "Oh, I can weld, I'll just fix it" is what I said. NOOOOOO!!! These cars are unibody, which makes rust issues ten times worse. If the sorta disassembled car has no rust, or has had the rust (properly) fixed, go for it. You'll end up having to buy all new parts for everything else. (If you need a Mustache bar to get it home, I'll give you one of my extras)
-
But it crossed the 'Hell Treshold' and that was NOT my intention. Even with 'soggy off boost performance' it would outperform any other Beetle in the area, it's just when the cam and boost came on it was like a light switch.
Ahhhh, Turbo Technology of the 80's...(er...truthfully the 70's, it was a Holley Draw-Through Setup!) With all it's hairy warts revealed.
The good old days....WEREN'T!
LOL
Good to know it wasn't just my 4bbl draw-through setup that did that. I spent days on end trying to smooth out the off-boost / on-boost transition, but it was not to be had. I had to decide if I was going to race someone BEFORE the signal turned green, because there was no gradual "Okay, so you wanna go for it, fine."
-
JC Whitney sells individual wiper motors, originally for Jeeps, I think. Also, take a look at VW Beetle (early) wiper assemblies.
This one is really early, later on (late 60s to early 70s) used a beefier bracket and motor.
-
Thanks for the input. Unfortunately, it is the bearing / seal, as well as the dust cover. If it was just the dust cover I'd just pry it round again.
-
No, the p79 head is fine. I had heard that N42 head with flat tops was a good combo, but if what you say is true, then I'd rather not do that...
-
And I guess if you want a ballpark HP estimate that I'm hoping for, I'd say around 180. With decent low end torque, and easy streetability.
Realistic??
-
Well, I've read alot of good things about the AZC manifold. I like the idea of an electric choke, and I am familiar with the Holley 4bbls. The SUs I have are in desperate need of a rebuild, and I just dont feel like messing with them.
-
Here are a few pics of the donor motors. The dirty one is the one that the N42 came off of. The clean(ish) one was rebuilt a few thousand miles ago, but the head gasket blew (probably because the PO drove it like his @$$ was on fire) and thats when I came to own it. Now about the cam gears... I've never see one with more than 4 holes. That one was on the rebuilt P78 head. Is this stock for that head?
-
I think I've decided on the direction I want to go. Well, before I spend time and money only to find out I overlooked something, I would appreciate it if you guys could look this over and see how it sounds.
- F54 block with P79 flat-top pistons (rebuilt a few thousand miles ago, ran until head gasket blew, then pulled)
- N42 head (was on another running car, and looks to be in good shape other than being dirty)
- This should get me around 10:1 CR, right?
- Stock Nissan head-gasket.
- Arizona Z Car 4bbl intake manifold with Holley 390CFM carb
- Arizona Z Car 6 into 1 header with 2.5" exhaust
- Newish clutch (only has 800 miles on it before I pulled motor)
And my last two questions... 1. Without actually disassembling it, is there any way to tell if a differential is limited slip or not? 2. I have a 5-speed trans I'd like to drop in instead of the 4 speed. However the rear bearing was dented when the trans was removed from the donor car (it fell off the jack). Is it worth it / possible to fix the rear bearing, or should I just keep the 4-speed?
- F54 block with P79 flat-top pistons (rebuilt a few thousand miles ago, ran until head gasket blew, then pulled)
-
And I thought I was pissed because when I filled my gas tank at the station on the corner of the guy's house, I found out there was no sender and poured about 2 gallons of gas all over the ground out the sender hole.
Your's was way worse.
-
On another thought, am I just too dumb to realize that this has been done before and I can buy exactly the gauge I want at Autozone?
-
I want to keep my interior as stock looking as possible. However, I want to run a boost gauge and a AFR gauge. The other stock gauges are staying. So I only have one hole (the old clock) and two gauges. What I want to try to do is make a dual gauge that will show both boost and AFR. Now I can either modify an aftermarket boost gauge and merge an aftermarket digital AFR gauge into it, or I can try to make a microcontroller that modifies the signals from a boost pressure sender and the O2 sensor to output signals that would work in a stock Oil press / water temp gauge, and then just relabel the gauge. Anybody ever open up a boost gauge? Is there room in there for the digital readout of a AFR gauge (I can re-solder the display to a ribbon cable and put the circuitry somewhere else) Or do you think it's possible to build a microcontroller to do what I suggested?
Or should I stop obsessing and just get a pillar gauge pod or mount it where the AC controls go.
-
Next they will be using 12v computer fans stacked in series in their intake as electric super chargers… or maybe even leaf blowers..
.
Don't say that, it could give people an idea...
-
oh one more thing, I can sell you the firewall crank mount and some linkage for cheap. I can cut as much firewall around the mount that you need, if you want to go that route.
-
Here is an easy way to do it.
That honestly looks like you're wastgate-ing the outlet side...??
-
SHO, you are going to get pretty good cruising gas mileage with that as long as you leave the SC swiched off.... lol
-
There are alot of people on here with alot of experience. In this case I ask, Between a P79 L28 and a N42 L28, which would make the better turbo motor starting point? Not because I'm too lazy to search but because I just want to know what you think.
-
I've got plans... and sources... but the only setback is the fact that I have no MONEY!!! argh.
-
I dont know what Panzer has, but my idea would be to fabricate a single rod with bellcranks that work each carb, and one on the end for the throttle cable to connect to, along with a mount to hold the cable.
EDIT: after re-reading your post, I realized you already have the rod and bellcranks. Just fab up a fourth arm that the cable can pull at the end, as well a a mount to hold the cable.
-
Boost controller on a supercharger?
It controls a bypass valve on the pressure side, (similar to a blow off valve, but vacuum actuated) that when open lets some air escape back into the inlet side, thereby metering the boost pressure.
-
I am a computer technician. And I think this is one of the reasons that I want to go with blowthrough carbs instead of EFI. I work on computers all day. When I work on my car, I dont want anything to do with computers. Another reason is the pure old-school-cool of blown triple webbers. Its almost like bragging rights... "Well I actually got my carbs to work, all you did is type numbers"
(although I dont even have the carbs yet...) lol
-
The boost controller I used on my buddy's 85 IROC Camaro with centrifugal SC was actually a shop compressor air pressure regulator made by Husky that I got from Home Depot. I mounted it under the dash, and ran lines to it. It never failed and you could dial in the boost however you wanted. The only downside is the length of vacuum lines to it, caused a few random boost fluctuations. If I had it to do over, I would mount it in the engine compartment, not like you really NEED to adjust it on the fly.
I mean it looks like that Z choked on a small forklift. Why the heck did they paint it in yellow stripes??
What diff is this?
in Drivetrain
Posted
Nevermind. Mods, please delete this thread.