Hotrodpez
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Posts posted by Hotrodpez
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Awesome, what kind of bedliner did you use and are you satisfied. This is what I plan to do to mine.
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Well I tracked down a wiring diagram. It is the brake check lamp warning relay. And now I think it might not actually be the problem, it is just responding to another problem. I think either my alternator or my VR is going out. Which would be more likely?
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There is a relay under the passenger seat on my 76 280z. It is zinc in color, and plugs into the main harness. Today it started clicking rapidly, and when it did, the "brake" light on the speedo flickers and the "CHG" light in the voltmeter flickers as well. Nothing else seems to be affected by it. I don't have a wiring diagram for this car, so can anybody tell me what this does and why it started freaking out?
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Something I've noticed that was not mentioned is that you have to make sure your fuel pump can supply more fuel pressure than boost you are running. Otherwise, you will starve the float bowls under boost. I'm not sure, but I don't believe the stock mechanical pump delivers more than 6 psi.
Otherwise I'm learning a lot here.
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On one of my volkswagens I had a system that was an electrical cutoff relay under the back seat wired to a 100 ft transmitter that i carried on my key ring. This was primarily because it had no ign key, only a toggle and a start button.
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oh and one more thing from the bug world... check out this site for fuel injection setups that are based on the typical dual choke webber carb. TBI, turbos, etc. Basically buy em off the shelf Individual throttle bodies and TBI... cool huh...
http://cbperformance.com/category.asp?categoryid=5
So buy three of these below, bolt em up to a standard tripple webber manifold, hook up the injector wires. Could probably even use stock computer... but why would you
http://cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=412 Page where those are.
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I come from the world of VW beetles. (the old ones). In this world it was common to have double downdraft 48 webbers on a 2.8L flat four, with adapters on top of the carbs (we called em "pressure hats") to allow them to be boosted by a turbo. Is there any reason that this same setup would not work with three sidedraft 44 webbers and one long common "pressure hat"? The reason I like this idea is 1) I prefer carbs to EFI, 2) it would allow me to get my carbs now and drive it with just that, and then later when i get more money, start piecing together a turbo system, bolt it on, and only have to do a few tweaks.
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Put the N42 head on the L28 that has the P79 on it (flat top P79 pistons). This will get close 10:1 CR. A medium street cam, headers, intake port matching, and proper tuning can get you to 180WHP.
Unless I plan to go turbo, which I do. But not for a while. So, I should do this, until I build my turbo motor, and then probably get an entirely different head anyway.
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Sure, I'll send you the E31, and I'll throw in some beachfront property in Arizona for free too.
And Brapp, thanks for the edit (sorry, I didnt know how G rated we had to be here)
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In a trade I got one car and somehow I've ended up with 3 complete running L6 engines:
- L24, E31
- L28, P79
- L28, N42
In your more experienced opinion, what would be in my best interest to do here? I want performance (not stock, or else I would be on the 'other' forum) and I'm not looking to spend a poo-poo load of money, but if it involves swapping heads, or other average work, I can do that.
And, no, I'm not giving anyone the E31 for 5 bucks
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lol it was a 93 legacy wagon. after researching this further, i think i might be able to unbend the frame.... opinions?
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Ok, I'm quoting my own projects page, so you dont have to click a link:
"Well after about a 4 years of hoping to get a Z, I finally traded an old Subaru wagon for 3 S30 z-cars. One is an early '71 240, and the other two are 280s. The 240 has a stroked 280 motor in it that runs, but has a blown head gasket and therefore leaks coolant. It has a 5 speed and an R200 LS diff. The bad: it has plenty of front end damage and a bent front frame rail due to a recent accident. However, the car is great from the firewall back; interior is fine, body is sound, no rust anywhere. One of the 280s is a '76 in decent shape. It has a good body, minor rust in the usual places. It has a good motor, but the fuel injection is not working. The other 280, I dont know too much about yet, it was kinda just added to the deal for free and I haven't even seen it yet. All I know is that its a 78, and that it has been sitting in a field for a couple years, and it has no motor. Out of the deal, I'm also getting plenty of spare parts, a few intake manifolds, several good heads, one cracked head, an extra engine, a triple Weber setup, and other misc crap."
So, out of that bit of info, what do you think would be the best way to get one good car? So far, I've been thinking that because of the frame damage, I should strip the 240 for all its worth: pull the carbs off the 240 and throw them on the 280 that has the bad fuel injection. Then pull and rebuild the motor that's in the 240, and the 5 speed trans, remove the whole interior, glass, everything. Then cut off panels from the shell to repair the 280. And then send what's left to the scrap yard. The other free 280, depending on its condition, will either be another parts car or maybe I'll get it running and sell it. What do you think??
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Well after about a 4 years of hoping to get a Z, I finally traded an old Subaru wagon for 3 S30 z-cars. One is an early '71 240, and the other two are 280s. The 240 has a stroked 280 motor in it that runs, but has a blown head gasket and therefore leaks coolant. It has a 5 speed and an R200 LS diff. The bad: it has plenty of front end damage and a bent front frame rail due to a recent accident. However, the car is great from the firewall back; interior is fine, body is sound, no rust anywhere. One of the 280s is a '76 in decent shape. It has a good body, minor rust in the usual places. It has a good motor, but the fuel injection is not working. The other 280, I dont know too much about yet, it was kinda just added to the deal and I haven't even seen it yet. All I know is that its a 78, and that it has been sitting in a field for a couple years, and it has no motor. Out of the deal, I'm also getting plenty of spare parts, a few intake manifolds, several good heads, one cracked head, an extra engine, a triple Weber setup, and other misc crap.
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A design i drew up a few years ago was for a single TB and turbo with a log-style intake manifold, and individual injectors on the intake runners. The "log" would be a tapered square airbox with bells on the ends of the intake runners inside the box, and a large (3" or so) throttle body at one end. The idea was that since the whole system would be under pressure, there was no need to have smoothed and raidused tube between the TB and the injectors. However, would the "log" airbox cause inconsistant throttle response because of turbulence?
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Well I've wanted a 240Z for about 4 years now. And I think now might be a good time to start. I'm finally finished with all my other projects. My last project was this: A 68 Volkswagen Beetle turned Ratrod.
Laugh if you must, its amazingly fun and not that slow either. I've done some research in the past on Datsun Z's, so I think I know what I'm getting myself into and what to look for, I just wanted to be able to talk to you guys and gals about stuff I need advice on.
Roll Call! Who here....
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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How many of you here have a Fuel Injected Z that has had the fuel pump wire replaced or re-run? Because on mine, and on some others that I know of, this is the case. The PO cut the FP wire under the passenger seat and spliced in another wire and ran it to the fuel pump. I put a multimeter on the wires, the original wire has 0.001 ohm of resistance, and does not short to ground. Why would someone replace an apparently perfect wire?