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TieFighter88

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Everything posted by TieFighter88

  1. Bolt in Rollbar for my 280z, the wheelarch mounted kit. I am in Orlando, FL.
  2. Anyone one have some quick dimensions that have worked for a simple bolt-on roll bar in an S30? Did I search and flicked through the FAQ's before starting this thread. I have a pipe bender at work , and want to put together one of those quick street Roll Bars I see bolted to the the rear wheel wells (not all the way to the floor , dont have the clearance with my seats. Cheers
  3. So, the consensus is that the reverse switch is NOT a viable point to fill the trans? Regardless of its position relative to the fill bolt/bung?
  4. Gday, I have an 5-speed on my L28 I want to change the fluid on, however the fill bolt is more stubborn than my wife. Tried heat , lots of heat, rust penetrant, and more elbow grease than I am comfortable with. I have read about blokes welding bolts on the end, or welding bars to add more leverage on the thing, but when I look at the reverse switch, I wonder if I can fill the trans at that point... The fill bolt and the reverse switch are very close in height, and the switch comes out no problem... I did search before bugging the forum, tried: transmission bolt, stuck trans bolt, stuck fill bolt, fill bolt, etc etc.
  5. I was going to do that as a last resort, as it involved the most caffufulllry compared to dropping the everything into the pre-mounted crossmember etc. I also have a huge aftermarket 8 gallon bluddy oil pan, will hit the ground before the cross... so I cant just sag everything onto the ground without a day long game of musical jack-stands... I still have the driver's side floor pan to finish welding up, and had this forum going while I finish the rest up...
  6. So I should use the strut towers as a reference point? That would require me to assume 'Point B' for the engine mounts, is shared by the cross member on the rails? That is what confused me in the first place with the FSM diagram...
  7. So I gather that the diagram implies, the crossmember mounts and engine mounts are along the same plane/axis, spaced equally from the middle of the strut tower? So I could rely on putting the midpoint of my cross member mounts along the line straight down from the center of the strut towers to the rails?
  8. Pain & Gain - 2013, an S30 right before the ninja uses his tazer on the rich bloke...
  9. I might take you up on that, my in-laws are in Melbourne and I and back and forth all the time with the missus. I definitely want to autocross, how do the inspections/waivers work? Because the whole front end of my chassis is a garage job, and not official SCCA stuff, not saying I am incompetent, worried it might scare them to let me on the track with my creation...
  10. I have heard this story before from another bloke, thats why I wanted to make sure before I start drilling holes in my fresh rails. Yep , I think after I got my ballpark measurement, I will dummy-bolt everything and see how far the steering shaft will give me... will have to check for the header clearance to, I have the 6-to-1, knowing my luck they would get in the way...
  11. Thanks mate, that will help me out after I decide how far to put my setup.
  12. Gday, I have a very low quality chassis diagram for my dimensions as I have been working on my 78 280z, I would like to confirm the measurements I have before I attach my cross member finally into my new frame rails. Can one of you blokes please fire-off to me your measurements from the firewall to the first mount as indicated in my attached photo?
  13. Gday, Looking for an S30 shell in Florida near Daytona. Bugger-all cancer is a must! My 280z is much more cancerous than I thought, and am considering just dumping everything into a cleaner shell.
  14. My 78 280z has the exact same skeletons in her closet, the frame rails up the front are totally separated from the mounts... I am hitting it hard this month though, I feel the same way you do about just quitting and jumping ship to a rust free body. I cant even jack her up on the rails on the front, have to use my engine hoist with tow straps around the whole steering assembly up front to get her off the ground... Scary shite. Good luck with your Z!
  15. I lost my patience, turned green and just ripped it off. Behold layers and layers of industrial double sided outdoor tape... Heat gunned the other side and it slipped right off as per the manuals say, but still bent up the other end... Lucky the cowl is cheap on ebay... *arnold voice* Thanks fowa the help und advices !
  16. Do you have a link or a photo to the cowl you are using? I might need it after destroying mine getting it out...
  17. There is definitely no more give in moving the thing after removing the 4 screws along the front and lifting it over the hood lip... There must be more screws underneath in it from the PO but where would tha bastard have put them? you cant access under the top cowl through the firewall, I am so stumped... None of the service manuals from any of the S30 series differ from each other in the process of removing the cowl... Will have at it again in the garage now...
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