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Found 20 results

  1. Currently upgrading my suspension and brakes. Remove the from tow brackets and found a good amount of rust on bothsides. Located just above the front sway bar location. I searched the forums and didn't find anything showing how this part tackled. I know 12 guage replacement pieces are sold for the sway bar location but haven't found any for the rest of this section. Ill eventually need to address rust on the radiator support. Pointers are appreciated
  2. Cross-post from Fabrication/Welding. I'm looking at buying this '75 280z. The biggest downside is one of the frame rails has abut an 18" stretch of chewed out metal. Here's what it looks like https://imgur.com/a/TkbKOEo. Are the rails too banged up and rusted to be repaired? And would repairing them bee too costly? Currently the owner is asking 8500 for the car. The only other rust is a little bit in the upper part of the passenger footwell/firewall
  3. Greetings from Montana. This is my first post so let me know if it's helpful. So my '75 Z has been sitting in a garage since 2013 on account of the clutch pedal lost its pressure and the fuel system was all gunked up with rust. I went off to school so I had no time to work on it. I came home this summer and have been working on it for a month or so now when I can afford it and have the time and finally this weekend it should drive once again! I came to the conclusion that the priority would be the gas tank and fuel system. So I dove right into draining the gas and stripping the tan
  4. Hello forums, first post here. I’ve been sifting through these forums for awhile and cannot seem to find the answer to my question. A friend and I are restoring/making a track car of a ‘73 240z I picked up recently. We’re currently stripping it down to a bare shell to mount on a rotisserie for sand blasting, but ran into an area of bad rot on the air duct under the front fender. Is this area highly structural? Im wondering if anyone has tackled replacing metal in this spot or cutting it all out and replacing it with tubes? Any suggestions? Thank you! Here’s the goals with this car
  5. So I finally got my '73 240Z back from my dads who stored it for me and into my garage. I wasn't able to do much with the car while it was at my dads since hes got his garage packed with his own stuff, so I was anxious to get it up on stands to see if there was any rust in the hard to see places. Like a lot of the 240Z's you see on craigslist for more than $400, the exterior looked great. Interior looked pretty good (there were 3 layers of carpet for some reason but the seller was older, maybe he just wanted plush carpet like he had in his house?) and there wasn't much that I could see r
  6. So after searching for a 72' 240Z for about 6 months I finally bought one in Stockton, California. It has rusty floor pans and the support rails are almost as rusty as the floor pans. First my body shop guy said to patch them up, but now we decided that it is better to replace the whole pans and rails on both sides. I've been looking everywhere but have no idea on prices or places to purchase them. EBay has them up for around $500 with shipping. I'm a newbie to the forum officially and new to dealing with rust. Any and all websites and feedback is GREATLY appreciated.
  7. Hey guys I recently bought a Honda Civic 2006 the car is an alright car for what I paid but iv run into a bit of rust in the boot of the car where the spare sits... it looks like water has been down there for ages and I’m wondering what the best thing would be to do to fix it.. I attacked it with a metal wire brush but it seems to be too deep and don’t want to risk putting holes in it. What’s the best option for fixing it here? I’m open to rust converter, bondo ect I’m just wondering what would be the best way to go about it. Thanks in advance
  8. i bought my zx a couple years ago now my goal is partially a restomod but also creating a racecar setup. at the moment im finsihing up with my engine work including intake with pallnet rail and new injectors and the works and a header thats all fine and dandy but my big issue is the body! originally the only rust i found was the spare wheel well but that turned into small patches on all for quarters and passenger floor pan and rails, battery box, to my current discovery the windshield area both on the roof and the wiper cowl. with my lack of experience in body work i cut out the passenger
  9. I was cleaning out the inside of my car took off the seats checking for rust and as I was doing so I found on top of the floor pans there was hard rubber that seems to be stuck on top of my floor pans and in certain spots at the edges you could see small rust spots. My question is should I rip off this rubber to get to the floor pans to see if there’s any more damage? I posted soon pics and I put a screwdriver parsley underneath the rubber to show what I’m talking about — At first I thought it was the metal until I found out that it’s molded on top off the floor pan kind of like a sticker
  10. The slippery slope, or, "while I'm in there". I think that accurately describes how i approach most projects. I begin with one intention, over think it, and something entirely different, overly complicated and overly priced is spit out the other end. Oh well, schedule and budget be damned, here we go. Not a lot of clean, rust-free (a lie if anyone ever claims this) S30's up in the PNW. Rust doesn't scare me. Complete rot does. I needed a solid base to start off on. I like finding complete, or near complete cars to base off of. Half torn apart cars with mismatched
  11. Hey guys, I'm looking for some advice on what to do for the next step of my 240z project. I have the car stripped down to a rolling shell with the engine bay primered and the underside undercoated already. I'm debating between sanding down the exterior and interior to factory primer, repairing any trouble spots in the process, and then shooting paint OR having the interior and exterior media blasting with fine crushed glass (hopefully less likely to warp) and then shooting paint. The factory paint looks okay. There are few spots that have cracked and are peeling but overall it's n
  12. 406-LS1-280Z

    Rusted filter

    From the album: The Restoration

  13. Hello everyone on HybridZ! First a quick introduction, as this is my first post here on the forums. About a year ago, I bought a 1971 240Z which I bought from a gentleman Tecumseh, Oklahoma (right outside of Oklahoma City). I don't know much about the car's history aside from the fact that it sat at the gentleman's house since about 2008 because he thought that the engine was blown. Well long story short, the carbs were way out of tune and the distributor was turned about 180 degrees. Now a year or so later I haven't been able to get much work done, however I am in the process of strip
  14. Rosco

    Rust stop 1

    From the album: 2015 winter project

    Just a little rust stopping measures
  15. We found today that the frame is pretty rusty on the drivers side and the problems are starting to pile up. It's getting down to some serious decision making time. We don't want to spend anymore on swapping it or fixing it up anymore only to end up not being able to drive it. Luckily I've located a Toyota cressida. Sorry Datsun guys but a rowdy ass JZ X chassis will always have a place in my heart. (First turbo car I ever rode in was one) Anywho I guess if we decide to cut our losses I will likely part it out. Just gotta make a donation so I can sell on here. I'd really like to save this c
  16. So on my 260Z the floor pans are shot. No nice way to put it. And the Dingus that Owned it prior to me I guess was just trying to make it driveable and he just riveted in a little piece of sheet metal in the drivers floor board. Well anyway it has led to a huGe mess in the floor pans and the bottom of the sEat rails look like they have a little structural rust on them. My plan is to get a recaro or some kind of after market seat with the avaliability of a harness to be installed. So my question is would it be worth trying to salvage the front seat rail or just cut the thing out with no discret
  17. Hi all, this is my first posting on this site and I've come here in search of some help with my 280z. I bought my 1977 Datsun 280z a few months ago for $2k. I bought it not running, since I'm more of an engine guy I was able to get her started and running in about two weeks after digging through the wiring and figuring out it was a bad ECU. Through further inspection of the chassis of the car, I found some rust. I know rust is typical on Datsun's, but I have a lot of people telling me its a lost cause and the frame repair will be too costly and dangerous to attempt. I've been told to use
  18. I had a heater core hose leak. After removing the old carpet, this is what it did: Do I just grind away the paint around the affected areas and prime? I won't be repainting the car for a while.
  19. Hiya guys (and girls!) Recently spotted a rather nice 260z, thing is, it's a 2+2 which doesn't bother me since I love the looks and the performance doesn't really suffer hardly. However, the listing says it's had a new stainless steel exhaust (how far through I'm not sure), new door sills, new headlamp cowls and something else that I forgot. Thing is, all the equipment looks to be original (and in just the kinda state you'd probably expect from interior that old) except for the carbs which are the round-tops from the 240z. On closer inspection of the engine bay photo from the
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