Astral Ace

Having enough is not a problem, I've got 50 feet of it. I just wanted to get some feedback on a new take on a way it could be done.

73 views, 0 replies. Anyone...

I am going to wrap my headers. I know I could spray the silicone stuff, but I got the wrap for cheap. It's high quality, and I trust my friend. Well, I was thinking if I just wrap it with maybe a minimal over lap or just leave a gap of maybe half an inch or an inch... I'm not sure if it would help leaving the gaps or would that cause hot spots or what? I don't think I'll get much moisture around the wrapped headers because it stays dry here. Well, some what. Atleast last year it did... I saw somewhere that you can spray the wrap with a high heat silicone to block out the moisture. (probably the same stuff to just spray right on the headers...) Anyways, I really don't care about these headers that much so... Anyways, just fishing for some opinions.

Depends on the cost... and shipping. Military don't pay enough to ship big things.

Thanks a lot. I bet her that I'd have an answer before we left. I don't have to pay to get in now. Well, not out of my pocket atleast.

I have a '73 240, and my 4-speed just sucks. I can't stand the "great" gas milage it gets on the highway. I need a five speed that will bolt right in, because I don't have a lot of time before I could be gone for 4 months... There are 2 280z's and 1 280ZX at the local junkyard and all are 5 speed. Will either of them fit without moding anything? Or does anyone have one for cheap? Anyways, thanks a lot. And I did search, maybe not that great, but the wifey is all rushy to go to the... fair. (yay, not.) I hate oklahoma by the way.

Where can I get the redline stuff? I want to try it. I've never seen it at autozone or "o reallys." I've also only seen a bottle of royal purple max gear in NC where I'm from, and when I ordered it on-line for my Mkiii Supra.

I was wondering what type of gear oil would you guys reccomend for a stock 4 speed. I've searched to no avail as to a point blank answer. I've seen 80-90, and a redline MT90... I don't even know if these are the same thing. I think I have 75-100(100+ maybe...) I get the grinding with engine braking from 3rd to 2nd. I also put the same 75-100(+?) stuff in the diff. Is that ok as well? Thanks,

Or you could use a electrical one, and find an 80's something maxima. Get the fuel pump block off plate from it and then you could put it on your car with a new gasket like I did. I love not having that leaky craptastic pump.

Well, if you mean take out the line for say the hearter core, then yeah. I want that whole bypass system gone. I want to plug up the 3 lines coming from the thermostat housing, It looks like I can just unscrew the metal connection, and use one plug. And then I want to plug up the line where it connects to the lower radiator hose. So, basically all I want is the inlet and outlet, to and from the radiator. I don't care about A/c or heat... I've been outside, practically naked in -20* weather... for hours. (survival school) But like I said, I need to know what size the plugs have to be. And do I have to use thread lock, or should I use gasket sealer around the plug end?

Help...

Hey, Turbo6, can I get some pics? Basically, can I get everything I asked in the post above you? I may want to get this done tonight if you can help me.

Wait, so I can just remove the external hardline or the coolant bypass I think it's called? Then just plug up the open holes? Please show me some pics of your setup, and what size plugs you used, and where you got them from... And whatever else I need to know. And thanks.

So basically I should have left the crappy looking "home made" plugs?

Yesterday I decided to get rid of the crappy block off job the guy I bought the car from did. He had hoses with random bolts in them. I went to autozone and picked up some rubber caps from somewhere off the shelves. I capped all the ones he had pluged like that, and I used some screw clamps to tighted them. Poured the some more coolant in and cut her on. I let the car idle, and she was fine. I drove it over 40 miles since, and nothing seems wrong. But what I really want to know is: Are rubber caps ok for a pressurized, high heat application as this? One of the caps are kinda thin too, it's on the line right behind the engine head. And sorry that I don't have any pictures to show, I don't have a digital camera. (military ain't the best paying commitment our there.) Any help is appreciated. Support our troops.

LIKE OMG!!!!! (giddy girl voice) Seriously, please post a price. I'd love to have this. Thanks, A1C Wilson Support our troops.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113064 Have fun.

The one I used was one... I've cut the car on and off about 4 times now, and driven it a little.

Hey, I got 5404's (they just stop more, 400 vs 200) and I got it wired up great, it idles so good now, and no more jittering of the amp neddle. I love it. Thanks for all the help, and if anyone needs help from me, ask away.

Man, I'm sorry. I thought you were being an internet a$$. And don't worry about it man, there is 2 more stores that I have to try. If I can't get them then, I'll PM you, and send you a check to get me some.

And because the picture shows 3. does not mean it comes with 3, it comes with 2.

Well, seeing your sarcasm there, I'd like to note that I've been to 3 radio shacks today, and none of them even SELL the diode anymore... Thats why I also asked if I could use another kind. Oh, and thanks for the reply.

Do I need to use the same diode this guy recommends, or can I use another simular one? Do I even need one? Is there an easier way... I am a wiring illiterate person so any help is needed... I've already searched and I can't really find anything to help me out here. THE MOD FOR 240Zs only: Buy a new "1981-83 Nissan 280ZX non-turbo" alternator at the auto store. Replace the original alternator and follow the directions below. Before you start, fabricate two little wire "jumpers" (cut a wire about 3 inches long, strip the ends, and solder/crimp a male spade on each end. Unplug and remove the voltage regulator on the right firewall. On the regulator's connector coming from the wiring harness, look at the wires going into the bottom. Plug in a jumper to bridge the white wire and the yellow wire. It may appear that both wires are yellow (due to age). Luckily there are only two solid light-colored wires...these will be the white and yellow. Plug the 2nd jumper between the black w/ white stripe, and the white w/ black stripe wire. Leave the other holes alone. Reconnect the thick white w/ red stripe wire (Battery) to the similar point on the alternator. Reconnect the thick black wire (ground) to the similar point (Earth) on the alternator. IMPORTANT STEP: Go to Radio Shack and get a "1N5402" diode. This needs to be soldered inline with one of the wires on the plastic T connector that goes to the back of the alternator. If this step is missed, the engine won't turn off with the key(!) Make sure the "line" on the end of the diode faces the connector. Don't solder directly to the connector like my graphic shows...just solder it inline with that wire of course. Diodes are sensitive to heat, so be careful not to overheat the leads when soldering.

Thanks for the read man. Well, anyone know the first question...

Oklahoma's junkyards suck bad for Zs... Yes there are some there, but god... they have to have been there since a year after they were bought new. Also, what is the difference between the f54 and the n42 block?