maichor
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Posts posted by maichor
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Correct about the Q45 diff, it is an R200VLSD. And, Terry, I believe that you can get one from Cannon Engineering in SoCal and Tim240Z may still have the part #.
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I think you misread that post Phantom. He said the FUEL RAIL WAS GOOD for a 10 second quarter mile which is true. I also know of one guy doing it with the stock fuel pump on nitrous which is risky, but so far he's okay.
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Terry, here is the text I posted before about part #'s- It was in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93863&page=2&highlight=powertrain+industries
Speaking of adapting the 6 bolt R230 300ZXTT, You do not have to machine your own adapter. There is a nice one you can get from Powertrain Industries. They are used to convert to a one-piece driveshaft, (the ZX had a 2-piece with weird joint in back). However, they are always backordered and takes about 1-2 months. Plan ahead and order it early in your swap. EDIT: Uses a 1310 series U-joint.
Here is the contact:
Part #3102-42
http://www.powertrainindutries.com
(714) 893-4585
7532 Anthony Ave.
Garden Grove, CA 92841
Price is steep at $116.
You will also have a hard time finding 10 X 1.25 X 25 Allen head bolts. The round head is necessary to clear the yoke. I searched everywhere and finally went with Gardner Wescott 1-800-521-9805. 10 X 1.25 X 30 Chrome grade 8 was all they had and were $2.46 each! But they look cool!
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Great looking car and beautiful engine bay. Let us know how the drive goes. I personally have not driven my car for more than an hour at a time yet.
Phantom, the reason the covers are not compatible is because you have supply and return lines on the rails and need two slits in the drivers side cover, not one. Personally, since I am building a psuedo GTO I think I will opt for those covers, silver and black. That comes after paint, body and interior which are still on my list.
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Mikelly, I may never put my car through the paces like you do, but is this a vette specific problem. I believe the camaro pan is ~3/4" deeper and the pickup is different. Wouldn't that help with some of the starvation issues of the vette?
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What do you want to know about the swap? Everyone who has done it from scratch has done it differently. The only kit out there for the swap is from John's cars (brokenkitty). If you have questions about using his kit, Phantom's car was the prototype for the kit. I swapped more than just the motor, including PS Brake booster etc, because I had a donor car and the parts were in better condition. The reason you have not had many responses is probably because your original question would take a long time to tell you everything all of us know about swapping and LS1 into an S30, and just about all of it has been discussed before.
So again, what do you want to know? Are you asking about difficulty, cost, engine placement, accessories, fuel system, electrical, cooling etc.?
I put my motor slightly closer to the firewall than the JTR position and used Corvette style biscuit mounts and a new crossmember. I kept the power steering in the stock position and relocated a small GM alternater high on the passenger's side. I used the F-body fuel tank and my harness was reworked to get rid of uneeded electrical circuits by Speartech. Fabrication skills are required unless you hire someone to do it. The Johns Cars kit only requires a little drilling etc. If you ask specifics we can give better answers.
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You seem to have the tools and knowhow to fab your trim, but there are some nice pieces here under the catalog section if you can spare the $.
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Yes, the Z31 has a trailing style arm, the S13/14 is like the Z32. Most agree that the Z32/S14 is a better setup.
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Congrats! It looks like this has turned into one of those Honda threads. I enjoyed the posts by those recalling their slowest cars. Back in high school I drove my Dad's Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel (the baby version made by Mitsubishi). That thing was as slow as a turtle turd. I always had the pedal to the floor, which my explain the cracked head at 80K miles! You gotta start somewhere!
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It probably has the Velo Rossa rear tub, but the front clip is not a VR. It the Alpha style hood.
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JTR has some 1 3/4" headers but from the pics I've seen they are not long tube. There just isn't much room for them.
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My guess on shipping would be ~$50.
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It looks like the kit I got is now $525. You can do the cheaper version with a core and it will run you $400. Go to http://www.4Xshaft.com and look for it. Also, my bro will be living on a huge ranch in the Rincon Valley and you have streams, rock obstacles, sand, and lots of hills. He can probably give you all the fun you can handle. I'll PM you with his email.
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Oh, by the way, if you want someone to hit the trail with around San Diego, my younger brother, the one with the 350sbc TPI Toyota just moved back to Valley Center (near Escondido), our home town. The guy is a maniac and his truck is a mean torque monster. I'm sure he'd love going on a trail ride since his wife won't be coming down until she finishes her job in June, so for now he has weekends wide open. Let me know I can put you guys in touch.
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WickedWild, nice Jeep there. You will like the XJ. My '91 with open diffs put to shame our YJ with 4" lift and ARB in the rear. It could take on so much more with softer springs, more articulation, and a longer wheel base. I chopped the front fenders but left the plastic over and ran 32 X 11.50's which did not rub and would stuff very nicely. I had some rubbing issues on the trail with 33's.
Ztard. I can see in the pic now what you are talking about. The driver's front is started up that hill making the tire to fender gap larger in front and smaller in back. I would still say get the shackles, they are cheap and easy just like the shims. Shims may work, but they didn't help much on my '91, however, it had a 6" lift. Measure the angles to see if it will help. After having done both, I would say get the SYE kit ASAP, before you vibrate everything to death. My 91' developed a lot of slop in the drivetrain over the years, and not just from U-joints. I went through several rear U-joints, but my pinion bearing and TC bearing and chain, all of it eventually started to fail. For the '01 I wanted it to stay young so I got an Advance Adapters kit and Tom Woods long travel driveshaft for $425. It came with the beefier TC shaft and everything. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND it. I swapped it in without removing the case and took me about 6 hours and I had all the tools recommended. It is not easy, but very doable by yourself.
It also looks like the UROC competition is a no go for me. We are expecting son #2 the same week. I guess the XJ will remain a trail virgin a while longer. The only thing I have done so far in it is pull some guys out of the sand at South Padre Island and run around on some of the sand dunes (more like sand hills) there. By the way, you have Cali plates, have you ever been to Glamis. Man do I miss that place. The dunes are huge. We used to have a Honda 250R four wheeler and a Suzuki 500 Quadzilla we would take out just about every weeked in the winter when I was in high school. Wow, that was 15 years ago, yikes!
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Welcome to the dark side brother! It has begun! It looks mean. Nice choices there. You do have a little bit of the notorious saggy butt syndrome. Did your lift kit replace springs in the rear, use blocks, or shackles? If you don't have longer shackles, I would look into it. They smooth the ride a bit and add and inch or more to the rear.
Then, if you hit the trail a lot you will next be getting sway bar disconnects, trimming fenders and adding 3" more lift! Then your steering starts to go and you beef it up, you get driveshaft vibes and go to a slip yoke eliminator setup. I have all of my stock springs and even a NP231 transfer case shaft that you could use for a core to do the slip yoke kit. PM me if you want any of that stuff. With a 3" lift you may not get into any of the other problems for a while.
On my '91 back in college, it kept getting bigger and meaner. Now our '01 is the grocery getter/kid hauler so it is more low key, but still gets a lot of attention because of the 5" lift and wide tires. I dig the Claws, but couldn't justify going with a mud tire. The BFG A/T KO are 325/60/15's (actually about 31.7" X 12.8") are discontinued. Now you can only get the mudders and most of my driving is on road, so I hunted down a set of the AT's. Hopefully I will get to go to Moab in June with my two brothers who are judges at the competition and put my long arm setup to the test. My older brother has a Ranger with 35's and two transfer cases and my younger brother just put a TPI 350 into his '98 Toyota short bed and upgraded to 35's . Both are running lockers as well.
Happy trails!
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It looks like it is all correct to me. I have a 3.54 R200 Q45 VLSD diff sitting in the garage. I have new seals for it. I was about to junk it. It sat open in the rain at JY for who knows how long and turns alright once you break the rust loose. I clean out the garage this weekend for the move. Does anyone want it?
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I like Shodaru but what about Hondubar, Hondubaru?
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The earlier Northstar years require a retrofit conversion for a RWD application. I believe it is now available. I looked into it about 4 years ago. I decided for the money the the LS1 would be a better choice. If you have your heart set on it, I'm sure it can be done. It will not be easy since you will have to design your own mounts etc. You will have to get the right Northstar and tranny combo. And you will work out any bugs with the computer controls. I would start by researching the Northstar swaps in other vehicles since precious little is available for Z cars. There is a company out there that builds Northstars for swaps. I don't recall what it is but you will find it searching the web. Good luck!
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I saw both of those pictures over a year and a half ago. The bear is enormous, but the carnage, almost makes me wretch.
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Happens all the time. The small stuff IS the stuff that slows you down. But, the closer you get the more motivated you are and the faster you get it done. Cherish that first drive, it is awesome!
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If you like the Ferrari Lights, you should check out the '50 Pontiac reproduction lights from http://www.speedwaymotors.com I have been happy with the quality. You can also get the LED conversion or LED bulbs for them. They are a glass, not plastic, 4" diameter to the outside of the bezel and come with bulbs, pigtails, and rubber seal and are easier to mount than the Ferrari style.
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I've seen the LS1 in helicopters before, but this is the first plane I've seen. It makes me want to relocate my coil packs and paint my valve covers black!
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WOW! Nothing like basically staring over. That car is going to be killer!
LS1 / T56 Update #44
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
It takes me about 2 seconds to plug in a reader and five to look up the code, c'mon Bill, are we being a bit lazy here. Set your alarm 1 minute early and get 'er done. Your first post on this was 2 weeks ago! Don't make me come over there!