maichor
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Posts posted by maichor
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I don't have a mustache bar because of the complete IRS swap, but I had to do the same thing to mount mine. If you don't add the washers the diff will always be rubbing steel on aluminum . . . not good!
EDIT: Oh, and the ears will center the front of the diff where the R200 sat, but they are also farther apart. What I did was make a new plate for the rear (for mustache bar guys this would be like redrilling new holes centered off or the old ones) That put the diff where I needed it. I cut the old front mounts off and bolted them to the front of the R230 with it in place, then rewelded them and PRESTO! The diff is centered and straight.
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Yes, except the sleeve. Although . . . that would be a good idea for you. When I added the second frame rail to move it inboard, I closed the main one without a sleeve, then welded them together, then they were both welded to the floorpan and the 1/8" extended floorpan that I made. It is not going anywhere. Remember, I also have 3/16" plate on the arm coming down from the old unibody through and welded to both those plates and then to the boxed frame. If you don't have the heavy extension I added, that area will become a flex point. Sounds like you have a cool project!
Keeping the front stock mounting points may work for you just fine. I wanted to really push the subframe up as far as possible to get a low stance. That meant I had to lose about 6" of the length of the front arms.
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"Would you say that I have a plethura of pinatas?"
Great movie, I thought it was spelled plethora, but never checked on that.
As far as trans mounts, search for Jeromio's he has a custom mount. Others are using the JTR mount, and John's Cars has a unique mount which may not work because your engine position will likely be different. I made my own modified version of what Jeromio did. I'll see if I can dig up a pic.
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Here it is. You are looking at the rear portion of the passenger's floor. I cut the floor our and boxed it to allow me to move the seat farther back. The plate clamped into place is 3/16" steel. One was welded there and one to the front of the tool cubby. I then notched them out and put at 2 X 3 X 1/8" from the upper unibody through both plates and to the subframe connector and welded everything in. This is way overdone, but I have no roof and I wanted to make sure the car would not sag or flex too much.
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It doesn't. I am all about family. I mean, all about family. I rarely work on the car during family time either. I have to get up early to work on the car. I play games after my son is asleep and while my wife is getting ready for bed. Does anybody else have to wait 45 min for their other half to do their nightly ritual?
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Video games?!?!? Who has time for video games . . .
Okay, you caught me. I bought it mainly because I use it to bribe the kids in our church youth group. I am one of the adult leaders and I host Xbox nights (not church sponsored) for the guys about once a month to keep them out of trouble. Believe it or not, it seems to be working. Nothing brings you together like talking trash and shooting each other!
I am a little ashamed to be 32 and playing video games, but hey. How else could I drive so many incredible cars. (Project Gotham 2).
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Turbomeister on this board also has a TT 383. He used to have pics posted in the album, but you may have to search for his posts.
Here is the biggest, but the pic links appear to be dead:
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Where were you guys 2 years ago when I was getting my headers? Maybe someday I'll upgrade to 1 3/4".
That's awesome guys. Keep up the aftermarket support for us!
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Tannji- I'm not an expert, but . . .
You don't have to do anything. Stock rev limiter is 6200 I believe. If you change the valvetrain, you can hit above 6500 all day long without floating valves. Search on it at LS1tech.com. Just about everyone agrees you are safe at 6K shifts on stock internals.
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LS1 if you are ready to build now. But, since you are looking at crate motors and more$ for them, just start looking around for the LS2. You can get the larger displacement you are after. You may have to wait a while to pick up an LS2 crate motor. I would drop in a used (read cheaper) LS1, drive it couple years and then pick up LS2 short block. I can't wait to see the real numbers for the output on the C6 Z06 version of the LS motor.
By the way, the '01 and '02 LS1 can be rebuilt once without resleeving. If you have one of those, you could do a lunati stroker kit and still be about the same price wise. However, if you have someone build a stroker for you look for big$ on an LS1 $10-15K. So, I still say LS1. If you want, add a 100 shot for $500 and you are still under budget.
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Mine is an S14 swapped into an S30. Go here if you are interested. There are a few pics there.
http://hybridz.org/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=37733
As for swapping hubs, tons of work an not much to gain IMO.
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Yes, State Farm does have an agreed value policy, but you do have to have at least one daily driver insured through them and have an appraisal. Another option is American National. They have similar stipulations and their program is called CHROME.
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Thanks guys. Here ya go. Oh, and the cat was my ticket to getting the Z to begin my project. My wife wanted an indoor cat and a treadmill. I wanted a Z. I got a Z and she got two cats and a treadmill. Guess what, she got higher price items there initially. But after nearly 4 years, I am way ahead of her now! P.S. ignore the mess of a garage.
Same pics supersized if you care to look:
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WOW! We have some great ones so far. I love reading these posts. It makes me feel a little better. Keep em' comin'!
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Terry, I'm glad you are okay. And, your wife was not being selfish. She wants you safe. That response shows some serious love.
Also, I am terribly sorry. I just started another post before I read this.
Terry, ouch man. By the way how do you get Krylon out of your eye? At least I didn't get hurt with my mishap today. In my defense, I have been getting very little sleep lately. And, I can't believe it, but I didn't swear when the car went flying off the lift. There was no time to swear. After I got it shut down, the only thing that came out of my mouth was, "A thousand bucks." My friend, who witnessed the whole fiasco, asked what it meant. I didn't even know I said it out loud, but I was thinking that the VR front clip costs "a thousand bucks" and I was sure it was toast.Here's the rest of the story.
http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=38053
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Update on the progress . . .Well, I used Terry's light trick. It worked great. I now have 2.5" from collectors to X-pipe and 3" from there. It sounds soooo good. BUT, I almost killed the car today. Has anybody seen Ferris Bueller's Day Off?
http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&p=285255#285255
Anyway, I am trying to put that behind me. See if you guys can cheer me up with some comments on how it turned out. I myself am pleased but not exstatic.
Big photos are here:
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I really have.
Fortunately this one won't cost me that much. Here it goes. Well, I took the car to an exhaust shop to get some pipes on the car. I was pleased with the way things were turning out. The guys finished welding up the pipes, and lowered the lift. I started the car to give it a listen. I have mufflers with built-in through pipes that can run opened or closed. The car sounded awesome closed. I wanted to hear it opened, so I turn off the car, put it in first so it won't roll and reach under the car to turn the knobs. This is where everything went wrong. Mind you, I haven't had a manual daily driver in about 6 years. So, I was half-in, half-out of the car, which was still on the lift. I reach over and crank it without taking it out of gear. Well, you can guess what happens next.
VROOM! The car fires right up an lurches forward. The lurch pulled my hand away from the key as I was thrown back. The front tires hit the 6" tall stops at the end of the lift and go right over, cathing a little air. Meanwhile, I am frantically yanking the car out of gear and trying to get my foot on the brake. I succeeded, but only after the damage was done. The car sat with the front wheels on the ground and the rear on the lift. It had also moved forward enough to push a milk crate into the corrugated tin of the shop's rear wall and pushed it out about 2". The car was still running. I shook my head in disbelief at my blunder. I sheepishly shut it down to survey the damage. I thought for sure the whole front end would be crushed (its all fiberglass). I was lucky. Drivers side=no damage. Passangers side. Small 4" chunk of my fiberglass cheek panel is toast and the rocker panel has a 6" dent where it hit the lift. Everything else appears to be all right.
Talk about STUPID! I wonder how long it will be before I forgive myself for this one. We had shot a little video of the of the first run of the exhaust, but didn't get the incident on tape. Too bad because I would like to know how the car survived a 1' foot fall. If I had any ego before, it is gone now. I'll tell you this much, I will never turn the ingnition again without thinking of the horror and embarrasment that this caused.
Have you ever done anything so stupid?
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Wayne,
$96! NO FAIR! Supply and demand got me on that one. He had no supply and he could probably tell the part was in high demand, for me at least. I'm glad the price has come down. I had them make my driveshaft. It came out nicely. If you ordered the part, be sure to be ready with the bolts. Stock 300ZXTT bolts will NOT WORK! And, forget about a standard hex head unless you want to grind off a corner to make it fit. There's nothing worse than waiting on bolts to be able to drive your car! Well, maybe there are worse things.
You will also have a hard time finding 10 X 1.25 X 25 Allen head bolts. The round head is necessary to clear the yoke. I searched everywhere and finally went with Gardner Wescott 1-800-521-9805. 10 X 1.25 X 30 Chrome grade 8 was all they had and were $2.46 each! But they look cool! -
So as not to hijack this thread, please go back to the other thread. Once I have the car on a lift I can take some pictures that will be easy to decifer. More pictures next week. Here is the link:
AND here is a teaser . . .
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I had another request for photos. It is hard to get a good pic of the suspension installed because the jackstands only allow close quarters for picture taking. Saturday I should have the car on a lift and I will shoot more then. Enjoy.
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Just proves how important tires are. Bill, when are you going to break down an throw some drag radials on that thing and go for broke!
Seriously though, if he runs DR, watch out. You will see a much quicker car off the line.
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Greetings.
Well, it really depends on what you want in the end. What type of use/abuse are you anticipating? I started out my VR project planning on having a cruiser. It still is, but I swapped the V8 LS1 and decided I wanted to upgrade the rear suspension. I also needed to repair the floor and subframe etc. So, swapping out the whole rear end became a function of seeing what would fit. I wanted to keep the IRS, I wanted 5 lugs, good brakes etc. Most of all I wanted to use up the extra 10" with tire. See this post:
I did a lot of measuring figuring, prototyping etc. All in all I could not be happier. I love the stance, Front and rear match very nicely with no wheel spacers etc.
On the other hand, if you are keeping the 280 motor and you want to use 15" wire wheels, I say keep the rear end. I was going o go with wire wheels, but then decided that I would rather have the width in the tire and the wheels. So, I went with the widest wheel I could find in the 5 on 4.5" pattern. Feel free to PM me if you want to talk at length about what is involved in something like I did. I will give you my #.
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The Q45 VLSD is a direct bolt in for the 240SX subframe. If you wish to use and R230 from a 300ZXTT you will have to modify the subframe.
The width of the 240Z setup where the wheels mount is ~55". The 240SX is 60.5". Maximum backspacing on a 17" wheel is about 7". Total width to outside of wheels is about 67" for a 9" wheel. Mustang Cobra R wheels were used on my swap. I used a 10.5" wheel and that made total width about 69". If you went with an 8" wheel you probably could stick with stock fenders, but you will probably want flares.
I used the stock strut towers and stock 240SX struts with the 240Z upper isolator. Bolted right up with a slight increase in angle over 240SX. But, this is unimportant because the 240SX has upper and lower arms and so the change really doesn't affect anything. And, ride height was fine with this setup. You could use adjustable coilovers just as easily.
Note. Mounting points for the front of the 240SX are 42.5" apart. But, there are .75" holes farther up the front legs of the subframe. I cut of the front legs a bit. That left an opening in the end. I slid a .75" ID sleeve inside and put a bolt though. Then, I welded the sleve in place so that I could tighten the mount as much as I wanted without colapsing the front tube. The back mounts are 24.5" apart (narrower than mustach bar holes). It also mounts about 2.5" behind the mustache bar mounts. You must have the clearance to do it. It will be tight with a stock tank. You could get away with about 1.5" back instead of 2.5", but that will put the wheel to the front of the wheel well, like the stock setup.
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I used just about everything. See my writeup here:
http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=37733
and pics at photos.yahoo.com/maichor75104
The Z32 subframe is about 2" wider than the S14 one I used. Most of the parts are interchangeable with the 90's Infiniti J30 and Q45. Including the short nosed R200. The twin turbo came with an R230 which has wider set bolt mounting in front and rear of the subfame. If you go this route you will have to adapt the subframe. But, since you have the whole setup, you can make it work. You will probably need some good flares.
Terry, ouch man. By the way how do you get Krylon out of your eye? At least I didn't get hurt with my mishap today. In my defense, I have been getting very little sleep lately. And, I can't believe it, but I didn't swear when the car went flying off the lift. There was no time to swear. After I got it shut down, the only thing that came out of my mouth was, "A thousand bucks." My friend, who witnessed the whole fiasco, asked what it meant. I didn't even know I said it out loud, but I was thinking that the VR front clip costs "a thousand bucks" and I was sure it was toast.
HOW MUCH TORQUE WILL IT TAKE?
in Drivetrain
Posted
Bill, I think you are running as big a tire as you can, correct. If not, you can run a taller tire. Since my fenders have been chopped for the VR conversion, I have monster 335/35/17's and have regained all mph/rpm and then some over a 23" tire with 3.7 I think if I ran 3.54's the tire would be too tall. My tires are just over 26" diameter. See if Zfan or somebody has some larger diameter drag radials you can slap on next time to Ennis for a few runs.
Then again, you probably are already maxed out on diameter.