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HybridZ

spacecase70

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Posts posted by spacecase70

  1. as far as the resistors go, they are hooled up on the Positive side if the injectors. there are two resistor pace, 1 has 4 the other has 2. 1 12volt cable in and 4 or 2 out hope this helps i will find a pic for you to see how it is hooked up

  2. the copper HG is a good way to go if you are building an all out race engine. I have checked in to these HG's and found that they are not practical for a street engine and to stick with a stock or comparable HG. My info came from the manufacturers, and people i know in the area who race and tear their engines down after each pass

  3. unbelieveable!!!! it passed the california smog check using the two idle setting!!! I am haveing a little more fun now! A little later we are going Turbo with it using my N42 block and a n47 maxima head. I could use a little guidence on this.

  4. just a thought, and to add my two cent's worth, the stock FI is a standalone system. just remove the wire harness out of the drivers side of the donar vehicle(75-78 280Z) along with all the components you have mentioned and make sure all connections are clean and tight. and you shouldent have much problems. buy a new intake/exhaust gasket , put it against the head and make holes where there arent in the head, just make sure they are strait, then use a die grinder to make the notches in the intake ports at a 54degree angle so the fuel will flow right to the intake valves. i cannot stress the importance of haveing a good clean and tight electrical connections, o the ghost of my car may come to haunt you, MUHAHAHA!

  5. unfortunately i am going to have to pull the engine again, and do the bottem end (cry)!! I am not wanting to do this after not haveing my car for a month but a mans gotta do what a mans gotta do! i will keep you guys posted on the progress of my re rebuild only this time i will be alot more thorough

  6. the answer is true, if you try to spin the fan when cold, it should spin abot two times and stop. when warm it shoudl spin hard. also dont forget to change you hoses they could be collapsing, which causes restriction of the flow. as for you rsmog issues, If your running rich your air flow meter may be off a tooth or two, and there is a rubber plug on the left side of the afm that uses a screw to adjust the A/F ratio. you may have it running too rich there. running lean can cause overheating and you dont seem to have that problem. but i personally would put a new fanclutch on it my self

  7. and now its back in the car and running!!! WOO HOO!!! i am happy to be able to drive it again, but... now i have a computer issue, when i go down a rough road the engine cuts out. i figured out it was the comp when i smacked it and the car ran fine, hmm i think i need to order the megasquirt to fix the issue!!! looking forward to building the comp! need to readjust the valves, they are a bit noisy than they used to be and i will fix that today, and it is really smoking now oh boy. looks like i may be pulling the engine again and doing a complete rebuild of the bottom end. i'll know after i do the compression check today.

     

    I'll keep you guys posted

  8. ok now i know what you are talking about it is called a batch fire and that is the way the z works, it fires all 6 at the same time, what you do is connect it the way it shows and you will have 3 on injector cir. 1 and 3 on inj.cir. 2 it works really well and it keeps the injector driver's from overheating

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