Scarab73

I have two recommendations: http://bulletcams.com/...and http://www.flowtechinduction.com/ Happy Motoring

Hi, Having campaigned in SCCA years ago, my best sage advice these days would be to contact a custom cam grinder. You'll get way better advice than from any big box vendor. Good luck and Happy Motoring!

Hi Jack, You don't ask the second all important question. The first, you answered by stating the engine's planned future. The second is what size heads? With a 383 deep breather, you should be looking at big valve aluminum heads 2.02/1.60 minimums with a roller valve train. After which, your cam will be a compromise between street and strip and should be purchased from a custom builder, not the big box usual vendors. Your best avenue, is to discuss the planned usage with a custom cam builder who provides heads as well. This insures the valve train will be commensurate with the cam's events. You should include a forged bottom end with the usual go-fast treatments, as well. Unless someone chimes in with a similar engine build that has been dynoed and can offer particulars, it's damn hard for anyone to offer cam proper advice. Every engine can be different, yet, built the same? Good Luck!

Hi, OK, Let's sort through this. 1. Cranks fine? 2. AT TDC, the rotor is pointing at #1 plug location on the cap? 3. You have spark at any given plug when you ground the lead? 4. You see fuel squirting atop the throttle plates when you manually rotate the throttle? 5. You have compression because you've removed a pug and felt the compression when rotating the engine manually? Just keep in mind, you need compression, ignition, and fuel for an engine to fire. It may not run correctly, but it will fire. When was the last time this engine ran? Why did you add a "trick Kit". You may need to verify, the cam timing is correct, that is, with the rotor pointing at # 1 the crank at TDC, both #1 valves should be closed.

HI, First, you are not going to get any accurate vac readings from simply cranking the engine over. As far as that power valve is concerned, it's use comes into play when the engine is running and and additional fuel is required. See this article:http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/74058_carburetor_valve_problems/index.html If you suspect the engine is flooding, check your float settings. There could be trash in the bowls, the needle tips could be worn etc. The idle could be too high, thus exposing the transition slots. You might consider an outright carb rebuild. Regarding the cam. What do you know about the cam that it's events are causing that low of vac? That wold make for one terrible street ride. Good luck!

Hi Guys, I recently took delivery of this 350 based 240Z and have been sorting out a number of issues. I'm getting ready to pull the plugs. Thus far, I've learned it's running: Dbl hump heads, 268H Cam, 625 AFB carb, dual plane air-gap w/1/2" spacer, wrapped headers, MSD Pro billet distributor with a 6AL "sparkie" box. (all new stuff). The initial timing looks to be 16 deg. The PO has installed Accel 576S plugs (short header style). I've never been a fan of this brand. I know our options may be limited due to the tight header and heat related issues. So, what are my options in keeping with the "shortie" or header style plug? Happy motoring today!

Thanks guys, all good points.

Hi, While you're doing all of this cleaning and discovery, have you attached an engine vac gauge for a reading? It will reveal either a wealth of good....or bad news. You want a steady needle with a 18+ reading, depending on your cam events. Happy motoring!

Hi guys, I'm getting ready to R&R the intake on a 350 Scarab. Being more familiar with SBF Fords, do any of the intake bolts pass through coolant galleys, thus, requiring sealant? Happy Motoring this weekend!