Lockjaw

Can you give me a ballpark on pricing? I don't want to go crazy, but I would like to improve the flow. Rebello will do mostly work on the exhaust port, I have discussed things with them. I have a mild cam, slightly warmer then stock. You would have to pay attention to be able to hear it, but if you were beside my car when idling, you would probably hear it from the 3 in exhaust under the car.

Please weigh in on who ported your turbo head, and what was done. I did a web search and found Lone Wolf Performance, and their prices seem pretty reasonable, anyone used them? What sort of improvements did you see over a stock head? Thanks

You need to get your Gtech checked. I would like to weigh in on this subject. My friends and I took a p79 and milled it 110 thousandths, and ran a nice big crower in it, and it required a little octane boost with 93 octane gas. Now I don't know about the CC's of this head versus the Maxima head, but I would bet on needing some good timing control to keep detonation at bay. The bottom line is running that head on a flat top engine is not the thing to do for someone who is not very versed in Z engines, and tuning them. Run a p79 or p90 milled about 75 or the N42 and be safe.

You should loosen the cam towers and tap them with a mallet and tighten until the cam turns. I presume the rocker arms are not on the head right? Then position the sprocket, insert the bolt, and slowly tighten it, and if you have the dowel pin and the hole in the sprocket lined up, and haven't popped the tensioner, it should go right on.

If the FPR is from a 280Zx it should be ok. You don't say wether it is lower or higher then stock. It should be about 30 psi at idle, if you disconnect the vaccuum source, it should be about 36psi. If it varies a little, thats not a big deal, but I would want to make sure the PSI increases when you are under boost.

The dyno tells a different story, my power dropped off substantially after 6k with a stock cam, I have a hotter then stock one now, and can turn the engine to 7k, which is where JWT set the limiter with the stock cam, but it did not feel especially powerful. With the hotter cam it pulls there easily, but Until I fix it, I cannot dyno it to see. I would seriously encourage to maximize your power in the 3k to 6k range, and shift "around" 6.5k for best results. Revving the snot out of the engine doesn't make it last any longer. Look at the dyno results people have posted, these engines don't make big power up to 7k easily.

I have a Kamereri.

Sport 450 from JWT, has the stage 4 turbine, 60 trim TO4E compressor, stock manifold, 3 inch exhaust.

I hope you have good luck with Turbonetics, I wouldn't use them personally. I am currious, where did all the metal go from the wheel to housing contact? You may want to check out the intercooler and see if you can backflush it or something.

Is that the cam with a split profile, like 460 lift and 260/270 duration? If so that cam was always pretty finiky about what kind of head I used, and it really liked a shaved E88, which had combustion chambers like an E31. I ran it with an open chamber E88, and it ran pretty poorly, even with a flat top 280 bottom end. I also ran it in a p79 milled 80 thous. and it ran prety good there. If your cam is larger, I think you will want some compression to make it run to its potential. I liked the MSA cam that is 274 duration and 480 lift or whatever, its milder then the one I listed above. It always ran good in any engine/head combo I ever tried, and with a nice high compression 2.6, it would turn 7500 rpms with my triples and header. I got froggy one time and put the first cam in my turbo engine, man it sounded good, but it wouldn't fall out of a tree. You can always snatch your head off and mill it some, probably be a good idea to check with Norm and see how much he thinks would be safe for you.

I use the bosch platinum with 2 electrodes, since its way easier to index, and they seem to work well. Make sure the heat range is right, I would run a 7 in the NGK, in a turbo. Anyway, I was making 19 psi on the stock 300zx coil with no misfires. Making more boost then that on the old turbo, with race fuel.

I am not surprised about the housing causing you to go a little slower on the launch, my increasing to a stage V from a stage lll made a DRAMATIC difference. Where I used to be able to blow off street tires at will in first or second, well that doesn't happen as much with the larger wheel. However, if I break the tires loose, its all over the limiter, and the power from midrange on up is superior. You have to find the sweet spot, for me, it seems launching around 3500 and just dropping the clutch seems to get me moving before the serious boost hits, and the car leaves and runs 1.90 60 foots on drag radials, with full air pressure. I never did try to run it dropped before I blew the HG. Also the CF clutch is a POS. I am going to get an ACT eventually. I am unmotivated right now.

Get a bigger turbo, intercooler, and better injection. Yes a stock turbo can make 280 hp, but not efficiently. I made 307 corrected, about 299 or so uncorrected on my old set-up, and expect more with the new. Also, you need a 3 in mandrel bent exhaust with a straight thru muffler, I am telling you, nothing short of NOS makes as much of a difference, and it is the building block for every other mod you will do. I dropped almost 9/10ths of a second in the 1/4 and picked up 7mph just changing from my sappy whatever exhaust to a 3 inch. I think I ran a 13.5@105, added exhaust, and got down to 12.8's at 112, ended up running 12.65's with DR's, and then swapped turbo's, and ran faster on pump them I ran on race before. Good luck. Oh and dropping everything into a 240 will shed about 600+ pounds, which makes a HUGE difference.

Pimp??? Maybe he just doesn't spend money on anything else.

I have the nissan one, and it is not as user friendly as perhaps one you could adjust while its on the engine, but then I always wondered what would happen if those set screws or whatever loosened up? I think that the gear is useful for toying around with cam timing, depending on the size of your cam. I heard a rumor you could pick up some gains by retarding the stock cam about 4 degree's, but would have to check the source and see. Where it is more beneficial is in an engine with slack in the timing chain, but I guess I don't have to worry with that either, thanks to the kameri kit I have.